• Welcome to 28Q29U Plymouth Forum.
 

News:

NEW FORUM version is here. 
If you are experiencing any problems, contact chetbrz@aol.com
WELCOME Auto Registration is turned OFF. 
In order to register for this forum please contact chetbrz@aol.com to request access.

Main Menu

I need some advise...

Started by kimmc, September 20, 2012, 01:03:50 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

29roadster

Hi Ian   Are you saying that i have to remove the riveted section of the mount and then send the rubber section to Then and Now auto parts and then they repair it and send it back to me. the front mount you can buy of the shelf. cheers Glenn

imoore

Well with the front mount i brought was change over. So i would guess the rear mount would be the same.
But not sure exactly. I think you would have to remove the riveted bracket, send them the mount and they will send you a re furbished  one. 
Ian
1928 Q tourer (Holden bodied)
Several vintage stationary engine

kimmc

Well, is this crazy?  I decided to fill all the tack and nail holes in the top wood piece above the R door.  I used Titebond waterproof glue to fill the holes then tapped toothpics deep into the wood.  I figured that when the new top goes on I don't want new fasteners just going into old holes and not holding well.  Once I cut these off and sand them flush, I will follow with a treatment of the PolyAll that Old Man recommended; that should fill all the cracks and splits and bad spots.  This one side was really tedious.  I hope this isn't a dumb waste of time!  Kim

1930

I dont think that was a waste of time at all
Jason Anderson

SDGlenn

 I've seen ashtrays that almost looked like that. lol
Good job, looks right.
SD Glenn
SDGlenn

frankp

Great idea and nice work!!  Used dowels for screw holes, never thought about toothpicks!  As Tinkeys said "Do once do it right."
frankp
frank p

kimmc

Well, I tried out the PolyAll recommended by the Old Man and SDGlenn.  You guys are right, that is great stuff.  Just follow the directions.  It only comes in two 16 0z cans (parts A & B) now; the shipping from Canada is almost as much as the product but it is worth it I think.  For the job I'll show you in the attached pictures I only used about a tablespoon of each.  I first built a dam to keep the liquid from running all over (I had the chore of having to remove the contents of a beer can first...tough job but someone had to do it).  I cut a piece of aluminum, slid it under the repair area and taped it in place.  Then I brushed on the liquid PolyAll to get it way back in the holes.  Then I mixed up a putty as directed using sawdust as a filler.  I packed it into the voids and holes with a steel punch.  I was also able to build the wood out to cover the opening at the top of the door post that needed to be closed (compare the 1st and last pics).  The stuff set up pretty fast but slow enough that I could work the sawdust mixture into the holes and smooth the surface.  I was pretty happy with my first job with this stuff.  I will work on the front wood piece above the windshield next; it has lots of cracks that PolyAll will fill very well.  I am going to try using the PolyAll to saturate the nail & tack holes, then tap tooth pics into the holes.  I'll follow that by another coat of PolyAll over the toothpics; I think that will be faster and maybe better that the wood glue routine I used first.  Either way, the wood should be ready for a new top someday without a bunch of old rusty holes in the wood (I think there may have been 3 tops; the original, the one put on in about 1956 when I got the car, and probably one other along the way before '56).  I'm going to have to put up the pictures in several posts; I've reduced the size of them as much as I know how to do.  Fun day in the shop with my project.  Have a good weekend.

kimmc

More pictures of the PolyAll repair job....

kimmc

last picture of my PolyAll job...

Old Man

I wish I had had this stuff back in 1977 when I started my '29U. It is actually called PolyAll 2000 because I believe it did not come around until then. I would never have disassembled my '29 to the bare bones the way I did. I spent many hours cutting up new hard wood and routing in the different designs. I could have taken out each piece alright but simply doused it with PolyAll and put it right back in. Pretty much what you're doing. I HIGHLY recommend to all and sundry to follow this restoration and learn how to use this stuff to restore the hardwood frame in situ. This is the only sane way to restore these cars unless you are going to spend several years learning to fashion new wood or have a spare several thousand to have someone do it for you. Kimmc is doing exactly what I would do today if I could set the clock back to that '29U tear down. I spent 5 or 6 years working on it only to sell it with all my work in it. This PolyAll will shorten this restoration down by years. Literally.   

kimmc

Thanks OM.  PolyAll is exactly as you described....really great stuff.  I was unsure what to do about some of the wood but all doubt is gone now after today's 1st experience working with PolyAll.  I will post pictures of the top front wood piece as I treat it...it should make a good "show and tell".  I am attaching a picture now so you can see the wood piece I will be working on.  Thanks again OM for sharing your "find".  Kim 

kimmc

Hello everyone.  I worked on a small part (about 6 inches adjacent to the corner I posted about) of the top front wood this afternoon.  Learned some more lessons too.  I put up a wood dam smeared with a light coat of silicon as a "mold release".  There was some missing wood around the left front corner that I wanted to fill.  PolyAll sets up fast; they're not kidding when they sat it sets in 3 minutes!  I thought I could brush it over the nail holes to let it run down in them, then tap in about a dozen toothpics, then put a second coat on around the base of the toothpics.  Well, the product set up after I got just a few toothpics in the holes.  I mixed up some PolyAll with sawdust to fill the big holes just like last time.  The sawdust slows down the set up time a lot and gives much more time to work the stuff into the bigger voids (probably about 6 minutes).  I am only mixing about 1 teaspoon of each; by the time I am finished with applying that little bit, it's beginning to set.  I am using those small tinning brushes; they're cheap and after 1 use they are done.  So, plan your job, don't try to cover too much ground, use small quantities of PolyAll, work fast, use disposable supplies, and cover any part of the car where the PolyAll may drip.  4 pics will follow; 2 here and 2 more in a second post.  Kim

kimmc


kimmc

Just a follow-up picture and a short note.  I rough sanded the repair I did yesterday (about 14 hrs ago).  I used a sanding block with about 80 grit.  The PolyAll sanded easily and both the wood and repair sounded and felt solid.  I will go back and do some touch-up applications and more sanding of course, but I was happy with the outcome and how little total time it took to do this.  Back to work (read play).  Kim

chetbrz

Kim,

How thick is the wood measuring in the center of the windshield.  Dimentionally from windshield to top of roof.

Also the thickness of the wood at the center of your driver side door.

Ths Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member