Thanks guys for all the input. Guess I am not so ad off after all.

Gary

Hi Tinkeys,
If you are talking about a wind up windshild, yes I believe they all had them. My 30U coupe has one that rolls up about 3 or so inchs. When you first roll it up it lets air down behind the dash to you feet, and if you rool it up all the way air comes into the passenger compartment. When I first got my car I didn't know about these things and got a mechanism out of the second parts car I bought.

I sent my mechanism to Stephen Kassis, The Filling Station, 990 South Second Street, Lebanon, OR 97355-3227 and they had it refurbished. They are really into the Chevrolet stuff, but this mechanism was done by a specialty parts manufacturer and used by several different makes.

The original gear set was pot metal and had gone to pieces and they replaced all the mechanical parts with aluminum and it works perfectly.

IMPORTANT - the one thing they need from the original mechanism is the input shft that the handle goes on. The original from the Chevrolet was a splined shaft and the Plymouth was a square shaft .

I know that the Filling Station sends this off to somewhere in the mid-west to actually have the work done, but I can't recall who it went to.

Hope this helps.

Gary

Oops, forgot to mention that you have a week to think about this, as I leave early tomorrow for Scottsdale and be back next Monday.

Looking for some good info when I get back.HELP

Gary

I decided to have my distributor rebuilt, as there was some play in the shaft and I figured the bushings were worn.

THE BIGGER PROBLEM? When I went to take the distributor out I found that there was a lot of slop ( I could turn the distributor shaft) about 5+ degrees in the slot in the gear at the bottom of the hole where the distributor goes into the front of the engine. It appears that there is a gear down there that runs off the crank or the cam. I can pull the gear up, but it won't come out the hole where the distributor goes in.

I plan on pulling the engine next month, (Yes -Still trying to find my vibration problem), How do I go about fixing the looseness between the distributor shaft and the gear??? Any ideas would be appreciated.

Hope all of you are getting your winter fixings done.

Gary

If your talking about a rim tool for spreading or pullling in the rims for a wood wheel car I have a spare if you want it. For some reason my computer doesn't work on the email through this site, but you can contact me at chiefgr@hotmail.com and we can set a price.

Gary

One thing about the headlight bulb. You can replace your #1000 bulbs, 32 cp, with the #1188 bulb. These are 32 cp on low beam and 50 cp on high beam. The ones I have are even marked TOP so you don't get them in upside down. These are getting a little tough to come by, but there are still some out there.

Another way to really brighten up your headlights is to have the reflectors coated by UVIRA. They do lazer and medical equipment and he is a Model "A" guy and started doing headlight reflectors many years ago. The process is a vacumn coating of powdered aluminum and glass. Not cheep but better than 6V sealed beams.

UVIRA LASER OPTICS, 310 Pleasant Valley Rd. P.O. Box 1137, Merlin, OR 97532, Ph# 541-956-6880, www.uvira@terragon.com

Just some info someone might use.

Gary

Dave, How many pins or connectors on your switch? I maybe have one you could have.

According to my parts book the Q had one switch, and the U, 30-U, PA, and the PB alll used a different switch.

Gary

29luv,

I just bought a 30U complete chassis for spare parts, and it has the early 28/29/early 30 caps on it. There is a complete set of four. I have added a picture so we know we are talking about the same caps. If you are interested you can contact me at chiefgr@hotmail.com and we can discuss costs. Caps are used, but I don't think there is anything that a little tender loving care and a buffing wheel can't fix. I can supply detail pics if interested.

The wheels seem to be in very good condition/tight as well. Would you believe the tires look like new and they are Montgomery Ward Riverside tires with like new tread. The fellow that I got it from said he had it for about two years and the tires never needed air. Go figure.

Gary

Hi, Great to see another person with the old car.

Post under the parts wanted banner anything you need and maybe?? we can help.

I have been collecting things to complete my 30U Business coupe and have got it done. So as of now I have a fair collection of things to spare.

Again Welcome,

Gary

Thanks, I'm leaning that way myself.

Gary

Da** your good. That looks great.

You are correct the originials had a coil spring around them for just the reason you mentioned. Protection from flying objects.

You encourage us all. I think I will do the same for mine.

What Copper tube did you use. I understand that there is one that will take the pressures, but that regular tube is questionable.

Again, it looks great.

Gary

Maybe you guys are right, but as I said in the second paragraph of the original post. Wehn this happens it is NOT HOT. You can take the cap off and put your finger down into the water (which is rushing by with lots of circulation) and the water tem is not hot, yes, hot, but not burning.

Is it possible that the water pump is pullling in air around the seal?

As I stated the pump has been rebuilt, but is making noise again and leaks after it is parked.

When I had coolant in it it foamed like crazy when it belched.

Just thinking,

Gary

Sorry I'm not the only one with this problem.

Pretty sure it's not the exhaust as it is all new.

Could have something to do with timing though. When I drive at regular speed, (35-40) it does seem to load up a bit. thought it was carburation, but could be timeing.

Thanks and Happy Motoring.

Gary

One of those problems that won't go away.

When I started driving my 30U I had what I first thought was an overheating problem. I could drive the car for about 10 or 15 minutes and the radiator would just belch coolant out the cap and all over the engine and body. When I would go to put more water in it (stop at the service station) you could take the cap off and look inside to see the circulation of the coolant. It was NOT hot, even to the touch. I put more water in and it just did the same thing over and over again.

I was told that I should leave the water level down to just above the tubes, as that is the normal level it seeks. Didn't seem to help.

I took the water pump off and had it rebuilt. Still no help.

At one point I noted that the water level was down below the level of the internal tubes and there appeared to be quite a bit of rust on the top of the tubes. Hey, I had found the problem. I ran some radiator cleaner throught the engine (twice just to make sure) and thought that would solve the problem. NOT. Things proceeded as before. No rust showing, but still the belching.

The water pump didn't sound good and I had it rebuilt again. There is lots of circulation in the system, but still no help.

I then thought maybe there could be a stuck thermostat. I didn't think so because of the constant circulation but at least I took a look. Removed the hose connector from the top of the head and as I thought there was no thermostat at all.

At one point I thought that it might be a coolant isssue and tried it with just plain water. Still no change. The other day I drove it to the club meeting, about 15 miles in 75 degree heat and no problem. On the way home that evening in 65 degree weather it did it twice.

If anyone has had this problem, or any ideas on how to correct it please advise. I am going to pull the engine this winter to check for vibration and balance issues and would like to solve this problem at the same time.

Thanks,
Gary

I believe the original was 1 1/4", but I don't think you will find anything other than 1 1/2" available.

Gary