Rusty, Are we talking about the handles for the 28-30 that have (what I will call a floral design) over the shaft end of the handle. If that is what you what another contact would be verdones@evenlink.com. I contacted them and they reproduce the door handles and window cranks in stainless. They are about $85.00 each.

Who is American Arrow and how do we contact them? Did they give you a price?

This is one of the last original items I need for my car.

Gary

I need a new front motor mount for my 30U. I need one ASAP as we are starting our tour season (yes weather finally quit raining). I have a terrible symphthetic vibration and it appears to be a result of a bad (basically rotted away) front motor mount.

Any help as to who might make them or have them would be helpful. No help from Roberts, Steele or Atlas.

Gary

Regarding the Wiper motor and switch (vacumn valve).

First - Be VERY CAREFUL with the vacumn control  it is pot metal and will break VERY EASILY.
I broke two before I figured out what I was doning. The is a fellow that makes repos, can find his name right now, but they are like $150.00 to match original.

Second - Contact Ficken Wiper Service (Trico), 132 Calvert Ave., West Babylon, NY 11704, 631-587-3332

            or Kent Jaquith, 2633 SW Obsidian Ave. #15, Redmond, OR 97756 541-923-4319

Kent just rebuilt mine on my 30 (an original motor) and it works perfectly. He even had the original triangular tag to go on it.

Apparently there are very few of the originals left that work - they are pot metal and become deformed. The originals had the front cover held on with two screws. The ones from the later models, I think the PA's and PB's - althought they looked the same - had the clip on front cover.

If you find a good motor they are worth whatever you have to pay.


Gary

Check Steele Rubber Products. steelerubber.com part # 70-0016-52 for 92.30 set

Worked paerfectly on my 30U

Gary

Does anyone know if and when Plymouths might gave used the pin type fitting? If so were they brass, nickle or plain?

If they didn't have these what style did they use?

Always looking for more info.

Gary

Thanks Doug. Great store.

Gary

Anyone  know of someone who has a decal for the brake reservior for my 30 I NEED one. Trying to get ready for the Jane meet in Portland and ruined mine. HELP

Gary

Thought someone might want to check this out. There is what looks like a good pair of Twilite headlight buckets and light bar on ebay. Sale ends next Friday 5-28-2010. Hope someone can use them.

Gary

The correct email for earl is earlbuton@yahoo.com it was misspelled as Carl not Earl and Button not Buton this should get you there. Sorry don't have Jeff's.

Hello -- Is anyone out there?

Looking great. You can be very proud of your efforts. ENJOY

Gary

I to am interested in putting together a tool set for my 30U. I have three rim jacks, two are not marked as to manufacture, but the other says Pacific Rim Tool, Jr. One of them does have a circle with a B in the middle as kind of a manufactures brand mark, but no name. All three of these will do my 19" wheels, and to of the, including the Pacific will go al the way out to do 24" wheels.

I would like to know if anyone knows the brands that were originally used for each of the tools in the kit.

Anyone???

Gary

Guess I wasn't very clear. Egge rebuilt the oil pump and it works just fine. In fact I had done the forbidden thing and messed with my pressure releaf  spring before haveing it rebuild and now have to cut it back some. At idle, or at RPM, it produces 40 PSI. I guess this is where the relief valve is set.

I have a couple differnt styles of oil dip stick and the increments are the same on both.

Gary

Just another opinion.

When I started my 30U a couple years ago it didn't show any oil pressure either. I went though all the standard checks, i.e. gauge, blocked pressure line to gauge etc. and found there was not pressure coming out of the block at the oil pressure lines attachment point. I figured it was the pump and removed it and sent it to Egge in California. They rebuilt it and sent it back. When I had it off I noticed that the suction line coming out through the block had some bad kinks in it. I figured this would be and easy piece to replace (WRONG). I took the pan off and yes it does have a baffel in the bottom.  To make a long story short I had to buy a special bender to do the 1/2" suction pipe and it took me about three tries to get it right. When I was all done I still didn't have any pressure. My problem was that I hadn't tightened the suction line on the pump tight enough. Now I find I have to much pressure and have to cut it back as it idles with 40 PSI. Understand I could wash out the babbet bearing.

Anyway, you can make a new suction tube, but check the tightness of the pump end first. If you deside to replace the tube, try not to bend it any more than necessary when you take it out. There are a couple of unusual beds that need to be there for proper placement and it nice to have a good pattern. Can't remember what I did, but there was a little seal issue there the tube comes up through the block, but you can figure something for that.

Gary

Just a full lenght view. Couldn't get both pics in one post.