Chris,

There is a 29 Plymouth 2 door sedan on eBay and the interior pictures show a pouch on the passenger side only.    The car looks like an older restoration but looks pretty true to form.  I will check my car tonight on the way home.  I think there are pouches on the rear doors   Who knows if my interior is original the only thing I know for sure is that it appears to be leatherette and very old.

Chet...

Chris,

A lot of the questions you are asking might be better answered on the POC Board.  The Plymouth Owners Club strives for strict reproduction to original factory specs.   After near 80 years it is pretty difficult to determine what was truly original in that a reupholstery which was done in 1948 will look pretty damn original in 2008.

As far as screws go Phillips wasn't patented until 1930 so they are definitely not original. Robertson Screws are possible in that they were patented in 1908 and used in the early Modal T Fords.  I don't know if Chrysler used them but he might have in that he did at one time work for Mr. Ford.

As far as the door pouches go I have them on both front doors.  For the life of me I can't remember if the rear doors have pouches.   I would suspect not since the rear seat is so far back in the 4 door sedan that I would think the pouch would be impractical but I'm probably incorrect.   Right now my car is in a storage facility so I can't check for you.  (No room at the Inn.)

The floor is interesting.  I was told that the floor in the 28 & 29 Plymouth was originally plywood.  Yours appears to be tong & groove hardwood.   Is this correct?  Mine also has tong & groove wood but I am sure that mine it is not original flooring.   Some Ya-Hoo nailed it in and also used drywall screws everywhere.  I may not subscribe to struck originality but drywall screws are just WRONG.

Have fun, your work is looking good, Chet...

No original Plymouth parts were modified to make this work.



Please see the link for the project blow by blow... http://www.chetscoins.com/1929/Work_Files/GasTank.htm

Cheers,  Chet...

Quote from: 29UJohn on April 23, 2008, 09:52:24 PM
The clutch throwout bearing has it's own return spring that is separate from the clutch pedal return spring.  On my 29U, it attaches to a small knotch on the bottom of the upper access opening to the clutch (i.e., the access opening that you use when putting grease into the bearing.)  This same spring was used for many years.  I recently obtained a new exact replacement from PowerWagens for just a few dollars. 

My apologies, I forgot about the spring that attaches to the throw out bearing.

Thanks John for updating this post.  I sent Jim an email alert.

Chet...

Attached is an article from a back issue of "Skinned Knuckles Magazine".  Jim Yergin made a copy and sent it to me. 

Tks Jim.

It found it very interesting so I thought that it was worth posting.

Enjoy...   

Chet...

Here is the scoop on the Q/U hub size:  Doug you were right on...

When measuring threads there are two dimensions to consider.  The Minor or female thread size and the Major or male Tap size.

If you measure the diameter of the wheel hub it will measure 2.375 +- 5% or 2 & 3/8" Major Dimension
If you measure the tool itself or the female thread size it should measure 2.312 +- 5% or 2 & 5/16" Minor Dimension

Since screw size is always refereed to by the Major Dimension then the correct size for the 28Q to 30U hub puller is  2 & 3/8" with 16 threads per inch.

So if an eBay seller is measuring the distance accross the threads on the hub puller in question (Minor Dimension) he should be measuring 2 & 5/16" x 16 TPI

Chet...

Definitely without a doubt 16 threads per inch. 

The size is slightly bigger then 2 & 1/4" maybe 2 & 5/16" or 2 & 3/8".   I don't know where my dial calipers are or I could confirm the diameter for sure.  Maybe Doug on the POC board will confirm the exact size.

Sorry,  Chet...

Quote from: Satillite70 on April 18, 2008, 08:44:35 PM
HI Guys,
    Does anyone know which size and thread is required?  I have seen 2-1/4" with 16 threads or 18 or 20 on the threads... which is the one?

Chris "My wheels are stuck too" Osborne

Chris,

I will bring my thread gauge home with me on Sunday.  If no one else gets back to you I'll post the thread size on Sunday or Monday night.

PS... The one I found at Hershey had Ford embossed on it.  I have been told that they are the same as the Ford Model 'A'.  It also has a nut to tighten it to the hub once you screw it on.  I think this is a good idea in that you get a tighter fit against a worn thread.  You could give the axle slap method a try in the mean while. 

Chet...

Nice car,  Congratulations. 

Just an FYI because I know you are working on your brakes.  The front wheels should come off without much effort unless the shoes are rusted to the rims.  The rear wheels are not as easy.  The hubs are on a tapered shaft and suffer from taper lock. 

If you go to the link below, this was a post I started on the POC Forum.  It has a lot of info on the subject. 

http://plymouthbulletin.com/smf/index.php?topic=1137.0
 
Good Luck,  Chet...

Jim,   FYI..

The Plymouth Master Parts list shows the throw out bearing as the same for the Q, U, and 30-U up to engine # U-258836 after that it is the same as the PA and changes again for the PB.

The Pilot bushing is the same from Model Q to Model PB, 1928 to 1933.

The return spring is definitely between the pedal and the bell housing bracket.  Same as the brake pedal.

Chet...
...

Jim,

Jim,  If your 30 U looks a lot like the 37 then maybe it is different then the 29.  A picture would be a big help in understanding the inners.

I haven't replaced the clutch in my 29 only in my 48P15.  I believe I purchased the parts for Andy Bernbaum in Connecticut.  With the 29 I had transmission problems and replaced the transmission, throw out bearing and the universal disks front & rear.  The NOS throw out bearing I had picked up on eBay.  I am not sure what the availability is for the pilot & throw out bearing for a 30 U.

The 29 Pictured below:





With the 29 it appears that the bell housing is the rear engine support.   Might make changing the clutch a bit more challenging then a contemporary car.  Actually in the 48 the bell housing is also the rear engine support.

Good Luck,  Chet...

Quote from: p4jim on April 10, 2008, 01:11:14 AM
thanks Chet.

Also I can't find what the throw-out bearing return spring hooks to on the transmission? 
jim

Jim,

If you have a 28-30 the spring is the same as the brake return spring and attaches to the same bracket side by side.  I don't know about a P4.  I haven't had the pleasure of crawling under one.

Chet...

Chris,

It's been close to two weeks and I believe you said you would be picking up your new old car soon.  Maybe you will have it home for the up coming weekend.   Well in any event keep us posted. 

Chet...

Jim,

Flywheels are usually pretty meaty.  It is hard to tell how deep the grove is from your email but if you have it apart I would remove the Flywheel and take it to the machine shop.  If there is any danger in cutting it down the machinist will let you know.  Resurfacing a flywheel is usually pretty inexpensive.

I haven't removed the flywheel from my 29 so I can't offer any advice.   The 48 was pretty easy and it cost less then $40 bucks to cut down the flywheel.



Chet...

PS... My advice is, if you are going to do any work in that area, resurface the flywheel and install a new clutch disk, pilot & throw out bearing, You should be able to have the pressure plate rebuilt.   My 2 cents.  After all.., you only want to do this once.

Quote from: 29UJohn on March 23, 2008, 07:09:13 PM
Chet,
Thanks.  I had put a new replacement gas cap on, since my original one leaked a bit.  I'll put the old gas cap back on the gas tank and try that.
John

John,

You may need to drain some of the fuel out of the Kingston pump, also the cap needs to be a vented cap or the leaky one will work.

Chet...