I am not sure what the recommended rating was but my 29U had a 15 Amp when I purchased it.   Keep in mind that the Fuse only protects the Lights and Horn ckt.  See diagram below.  The generator, ignition, and starter motor are fuse less.

Item 31 is the fuse.  Generator Max output = 16 Amps.  In order to keep the battery charged total electrical consumption needs to be less then 16 Amps.  Probably a 10 Amp Fuse would work OK.



Chet...

Welcome to Rodney down under,

Your car looks great.  Feel free to share maintenance tips, pictures, and experiences.  I am a firm believer that cars should be driven often so feel free to post an adventure.

Cars in museums are nice to look at but old cars still putting around on the roads are an unbelievable joy for everyone who is lucky enough to see one in action.

Chet..

I jumped into the 29 and took a ride to Jim Yergin's home in Warrenton, VA.  The drive was approximately 42 miles with a top speed of approximately 45 mph.  I stopped for a quick equipment check at the Manassas Battlefield Park.  Picture below.



I am very envious of Jim's shop which is a three car garage with a full standup attic above.  Jim has every tool imaginable and what isn't store bought is home made, from the sand blaster to the power coat oven.  Jim's car is looking great and the woodwork Jim has done.., is in a word..., excellent.   I can't wait for next year and maybe Jim will bring his 1941 Plymouth Woody to the Sully Plantation Car show next Father's Day.

After taking a tour of Jim's historic Victorian home we jumped into the 29 and took a quick drive through the beautiful Virginia country side.  A great trip for my car and a real pleasure to visit Jim's beautiful home.  Total round trip miles 84.

Chet...

Quote from: George29 on July 20, 2007, 03:19:34 PM
I found a picture of the original hub puller and will try to find one ...
George

If you could post the picture you found it would be very helpful.  I am not quite sure what an original puller look like.

Tks,  Chet...

Hello, ski, and welcome to this very new forum.

There are a couple of other sources for information.  The following are a few links:

Plymouth: The First Decade:     http://www.ply33.com/

Plymouth Owners Club forum:    http://plymouthbulletin.com/smf/index.php

Also I just rebuilt my brakes so any help I can provide I will.

Chet...

George,  Did you see this post.

Bill on the POC forum wrote this to me about removing the rear hubs.  I haven't tryed it but I thought you might be interested:

****
Hi Chet, back in the 60's an old guy helped me with mine being a young guy at the time. The part he used was a threaded piece of steel. It has inside threads and a 4 inch stock to tap a rubber or wood mallet on the end. It pushes the axle in about 3'4 to 1 inch. and the wood wheel and hub fall off. I have always used this tool to take the back hubs off my axles. I may be able to send you a picture to you email address.

Also found this referenced post on the AACA ( Tks, Jim )

Another method to remove a wheel is to:
If you are removing the driver side rear wheel, jack up the passenger side wheel.
Use a wheel knocker on the end of the axle or screw the nut out until it is even with the end of the axle.
Now, hit the end of the axle/nut on the driver's side and the wheel should come loose on the axle.

Chet...

Quote from: mopardave on July 14, 2007, 06:26:31 PM
Let me know Chet if you need any additional pics.

Dave, It appears that I didn't receive the pictures of the crank unless it was removed from my mail as spam.  If you sent it to my work email that is what likely happened.  Send to:  chetbrz@aol.com or post on the forum.

Tks, Chet...

Thanks Dave,

The pictures are great.  By the way,... nice cars. 

PS the Photo album board was a down and easy way to setup a photo section but I am working on real photo album software like some of the free photo sites only with out the advertisement.  Maybe if I can get the lead out that will be available at some point in the future and will be a nice asset to the site.

Tks,  Chet...

George,

Bill on the POC forum wrote this to me about removing the rear hubs.  I haven't tryed it but I thought you might be interested:

****
Hi Chet, back in the 60's an old guy helped me with mine being a young guy at the time. The part he used was a threaded piece of steel. It has inside threads and a 4 inch stock to tap a rubber or wood mallet on the end. It pushes the axle in about 3'4 to 1 inch. and the wood wheel and hub fall off. I have always used this tool to take the back hubs off my axles. I may be able to send you a picture to you email address.

Also found this referenced post on the AACA ( Tks, Jim )

Another method to remove a wheel is to:
If you are removing the driver side rear wheel, jack up the passenger side wheel.
Use a wheel knocker on the end of the axle or screw the nut out until it is even with the end of the axle.
Now, hit the end of the axle/nut on the driver's side and the wheel should come loose on the axle.

Jack
_________________________
Dayton, Oh


****
My email address is in my profile but I will post it here:  chetbrz@aol.com

George or Dave a picture would be great especially the end that goes into the motor.  I saw a crank for a Fargo truck and it was a T pin.

Also it appears that the upload picture function of this site isn't working.  I will check into this over the weekend.

Chet...

Looking for a Picture of an engine hand crank for the 1929 Plymouth.  Most important is the correct size of the crank and would need a picture of the end that attaches to the motor. 

Reason,

I see these from time to time in all types of places including Antique Stores.  Basically I need to know what a Plymouth Engine crank looked like so that I can recognize one when I see it.  There are a half a dozen engine cranks on eBay but most people don't know for sure what car they were for.  Just something they found in the barn or the garage.

Any help would be appreciated,  Chet...

George,

The screw jack may not give you enough pressure and might be hard to handle.   I laced a chain so I had equal pressure on four spots.  12:00 o-clock, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00.  Keep the chain as close to the drum as possible.  Have someone work a small bottle jack while you keep the chain and jack in position so as to apply equal pressure on all 4 points.

In the mean time this is what I believe is the proper puller.  I saw one once but couldn't seem to find anyone that has one.  I may have a machine shop make one up for me:

My feebel drawing



PS...  Only one of my rear wheels was hard to get off.  I believe it was the wheel that provides drive torque most of the time.

Chet...

Also,  Are you familiar with how the Wagner Lockheed brakes are adjusted. 

Are you using a tool or trying to do it by feel.??  If you are doing it by the touch & feel method..., try this link as a quick reference.

http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/p15pdf/brake.pdf

Plymouth used this type of system through to the 50's.  If the quick reference confuses you do it your way.  There are a lot of methods but basically the idea is to get shoes as close to the drum surface as possible.  Use the outside adjustment to finish up.

Originally I think the 1929 mechanic used a drum with holes cut in it so as to use a feeler gauge between the shoes and the drum surface.

Chet...

Quote from: mopardave on July 04, 2007, 02:40:12 PM
I had the Plymouths out today.  Here is a pic:

Quite an impressive display.  By the way.., I am still working on putting up a photo album link where forum members can display their car pictures.  I just haven't been able to find the time to test the application.  Well in any event I'll get to it at some point.

Thanks for posting the picture.    Chet...

I took the 29-U out for a 76 mile drive on July 4th.   The weather was beautiful so why not.  I encounter many different types of road conditions from average city streets to super highways and also deserted country roads.   The car ran great.  It looks like my Gas problems are behind me now.  The 2 psi electric fuel pump along with cleaning out the gas tank really made a big difference.

Along the way I make a wrong turn and found myself on a three-lane highway with six miles to go before the first chance to exit.  I ran her up to the blazing speed of 50 mph with throttle to spare.  I turned on my newly installed 4 way flashers to warn motorists of my high rate of speed.  Many drivers were impressed and gave me the thumbs up as I passed them.  Some drivers were so impressed that they sent me the "You're number one sign".   At least that is what I figured they meant in that they only held up one finger.  My wife said that I should wave back so I gave them the "Your number one sign in response to their generous tribute.

What a great 4th.  Picture below is a memento of the trip.  A one lane crossing on the way to my Daughter's Townhouse in Leesburg.  Here again while snapping the picture of my car on the one lane crossing the other drivers waiting to cross kept giving me the "You're # 1 hand sign.  What a friendly town...



PS....   The wife wanted me to confess that no motorists were angered or annoyed by my escapades on July 4th.   I just thought my version of the story was funnier.   I will say that everyone who ran across my car on Wednesday either on the road or off were very happy to see the old Girl still on the road.

Chet...

Hi Dave & Welcome,

We are not a very big group yet but hopefully the site will grow.  I will keep an eye out for your hinges.  I set up this site for all Plymouth Owners whether factory original or custom creations.  Anything saved from the crusher is a good thing and not all cars are destine to be museum pieces.   Actually they are a lot more fun when they are on the street.!!!

Are you planning on putting the running boards and fenders back on.  It would sure look sweet with the running boards on.

Chet...

Interesting Ride...