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29U - King Pins

Started by chetbrz, November 10, 2020, 11:08:23 AM

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chetbrz

It appears that the knock in my passenger side front wheel is related to the bottom bushing of the king pin.  There is a good amount of play and I can physically move the wheel back & forth and create the knock.  I guess cleaning off the protective years of grease and grime helped bring out the problem.  So I guess I will need to replace the king pin set and while I'm at it, replace the inner and outer wheel bearings. Oh yes probably should install the new brake pads I have for the front.  I guess when I was in this area I should have been more aggressive with repair.  Well I have all winter to find the parts and do the work.

Unfortunately I have never replaced king pins before and could use some advise.  I don't think it's difficult but I don't have any experience.

To remove the Pivot Pin lock pin, Does it just hammer out or is there a set screw.
Also which direction, see picture below:


Any words of wisdom from them that have been there and done that, would be appreciated, Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

Des28Qau

Hey Chet and All.
Just a point for caution re wheel bearings. this applies to front and rear axles.
When I got my "Q" I went over the Brakes and bearings and found quite a lot issues with the front and rear.
Staying on front hubs topic,
I was not happy with the feel when adjusting the front wheel bearings, after on and off again and a few adjustment attempts I removed the bearings from the hubs and stubs and eventually found the issue.
When cross referencing the original bearing numbers (or by sizes) to a modern bearing numbers all the usual dimensions match up.  However the radius on the hub stub-axle shaft to the hub stub-axle shoulder is a larger radius than the newer style bearing, therefor the bearing inner race cone side face, did not rest on the stub axle shoulder (it was binding on the radius). This was the case with all major brands.  I was able to find a retired bearing man through a vintage car club to explain the difference and get the correct bearings. Unfortunately I have no idea what the numbers were . I have attached a diagram and hope it works, and that you can understand what I am trying to say.
Regards Des
Canadian 28Q Australia
Des

Des28Qau

Des

chetbrz

Quote from: Des28Qau on November 11, 2020, 07:35:03 AM
Hey Chet and All.
Just a point for caution re wheel bearings. this applies to front and rear axles.
When I got my "Q" I went over the Brakes and bearings and found quite a lot issues with the front and rear.
Staying on front hubs topic,
I was not happy with the feel when adjusting the front wheel bearings, after on and off again and a few adjustment attempts I removed the bearings from the hubs and stubs and eventually found the issue.
When cross referencing the original bearing numbers (or by sizes) to a modern bearing numbers all the usual dimensions match up.  However the radius on the hub stub-axle shaft to the hub stub-axle shoulder is a larger radius than the newer style bearing, therefor the bearing inner race cone side face, did not rest on the stub axle shoulder (it was binding on the radius). This was the case with all major brands.  I was able to find a retired bearing man through a vintage car club to explain the difference and get the correct bearings. Unfortunately I have no idea what the numbers were . I have attached a diagram and hope it works, and that you can understand what I am trying to say.
Regards Des
Canadian 28Q Australia

Des, When you say you didn't like the feel when adjusting.., was the feel spongy ?  Thanks for the tip.  Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

Des28Qau

Hi Chet ,
I am a mechanic mostly on 60's to 2000's cars, so just didnot feel right to me when adjusting the front hubs
(they were loose and I now know why they work them selves loose).
To say spongy is probably a fair description if you are referring to the wrench feel .
The bearings I generally do up tight, spin the hub (or wheel in this case) and back of a touch so as to just not feel any movement with fresh cold grease.
The bearings did not feel to tighten up as I expected, due to resting agains the radius not the shoulder of the stub..
See if you can make sense of my hieroglyphics/drawing attached.
I had the same issue with the rear axle and bearings .
it is possible to get the correct bearings you just need to talk to person who understands and can order in for you.
I hope this helps some people .
Des.
Des

chetbrz

Thanks, I understand what you are saying.  Also thanks also for the diagram.   Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

Articifer Tom

What where the bearing brand  ?

chetbrz

Quote from: Articifer Tom on November 12, 2020, 09:40:54 AM
What where the bearing brand  ?

I don't know.  I haven't gotten there yet and I do have some old bearings lying around someplace.
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

29UJohn

  Regarding the King Pins, I believe new king pin sets are still available for our cars. Any good general machine shop should be able to press them out and fit the new ones for you.  You can remove the axel and take it to the with the replacement kin pins.
   As for the front wheel bearings, I had no problems finding replacement bearings and races back in 2015.  Back then I lived in Dothan, Alabama, a medium size town in the middle of a rather large rural area.  As a result, there was about every specialty shop you could imagine for repairing trucks and farm equipment.  At the time there were two shops that only handled bearings. I chuckle remembering when I went to one and brought in my original bearings  and races.  The fellow looked at the Timkin numbers and said, "no problem , we have plenty of these, they are the exact same ones used on many Chicken House fans."
   
John
1929U 4 Dr

chetbrz

Hi John,

Thanks for the info. I purchased a king pin set from Rare Parts.  Perfect fit. I removed one spindle than dropped the axle and brought it to a drive line shop here in town.  I am currently replacing a front wheel drum that was badly scared.  I have new brake pads for the front. Do you think the front wheel rear seal is also available.

PS good question about the dip stick.  Kinda like the replace engine light on a modern car.   I've always liked gauges instead of idiot lights. They give you a heads up on a potential problem.
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

29UJohn

The front wheel seals are readily available.  CR 18242 or National 474350.  You can order them through Autozone or Napa.  I put some new CR 18242 on my front wheels recently.
John
1929U 4 Dr