The way mine works you can clamp the rod in any position to have off or full on . In only moves from about 10 t0 12 o'clock for throttle range .

Vacuum leak I would think make for hard starting if at all  . I wonder if if carb idle tube was changed . There are three critical orifices on that tube alone, that control until accel. is brought it to circuit .

Use a light or VOM meter to set point as you turn to break . Easier and more accurate then looking .
  When has it worked correctly ? Did it start after rebuild or carb parts ?

I believe the parts book calls for liner between running boards and splash panels and welt on end s . Definition of each I do not know . But personal use gaffers tape for liner . I is thin similar to duct tape . sticks one side .

I used Q Bond glue system by KTool . It has black and white reinforcing powders and fast super glues . Did couple years ago on cracked steering wheel hub . Check You tubes on two thumbs up for me .

Well Done . An artist .

Anyone needs oem new T705 shackles .At $50 now .

I believe CRB-481 bolts with CRN-453 nuts match .Cross also to 58-68 Ford (352)+(390)engine bolts . Finding and price is another story .

Can you post pic and length . i have spare rod bolts from my lasted endeavor on a 31 PA engine .Would probability use cotters instead of wire .

Sorry mine 311 later series .

Need the rod number to check what I have .

I did not know much about them but saw this pic before and the rubber component .

Engine stabilizer / torque spring . mounts on head bolt  link to cowl .

Mostly found on inside backing plate front top . By having on moving part can use to do precise minor adjustment , my guess .

That is inspection hole for brakes and can verify setup gap .