You probably need an 8821 Clum switch . No idea what that wire is for you have , unless roadsters are way different . Normal is insulate wire up tube like Chet's . I have soldered to existing wire contact on mine . However it is like Chet's not yours .

Yes , brought replacement carb parts from,myself . Treated fair and fast .

Early Chevrolet Parts sells new ones online for about 55 dollars .

My understanding is that is purpose of that bulge , using exhaust gas to heat and vaporize the intake .

I found easiest to tap steel collar of wheel and use modern puller . Cracked first ones I did puller from fibre bottom .

Looks more like an elevator bolt ( large head 1/2" threaded body) .that is through a larger washer then 2 shims or one 1/4" shim rubber set to frame and washer ,lockwasher nut to bottom . Other rad's had stud welded directly on support . Most rusted bad.

Tryon type by thompson T709 on Ebay , not mine .

Ok , but it may also lube slide part . I guess you will see when opened .

Sounds good . Are you going to add zert to also ?

No numbers on yours I take ? What about thickness being so different ? The bearing 1136 is not ready available ,but can be found .

Hi Chet , Rod is at shop for pouring may have back this week . We will see . Crank is fine , fluid channels TBD .

Good to hear . Now when does she get to drive . 

N1136 from  "We Got Your Parts " or ebay .
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What is problem with throwout bearing change ? I bought but never change mine yet .

Your welcome .. I thought if you just wanted functional maybe fab from 1" channel or tube stock split . The dimple on end , leveler by hump where bolt goes up thur pushing down to the rims edge with that fork end , does it .