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Wheel Maintenance

Started by chetbrz, October 23, 2020, 04:29:27 PM

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chetbrz

I was having problems with front wheel knock so I jacked up the front end and checked the wheels.  I couldn't find any loose wood spokes but they certainly looked dry.  After greasing the steering components again I socked the wood spokes the best I could with a spray bottle, both front and back. I let them dry turning the wheels from time to time to allow the water to pernitrate around the spoke and rim.  I took the car out today for a short drive and my knocking sound was gone.  I spoke with a friend and he said that I should put one coat of a 50% mixture of boiled linseed oil and turpentine to swell the wood.  Has anybody heard of this maintenance tip. ??  I have in the past sprayed the wheels during hot dry summer conditions but have not heard of using boiled linseed oil.  I guess the assumption is that the oil doesn't dry up as quickly as water. 

Chet...
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ski

I've heard of that and it was specific whether it should be linseed oil or "boiled" linseed oil but can't remember which.

ski


Russ T. Fender

Regular linseed oil takes forever to dry and tends to remain sticky.  Boiled linseed oil is the way to go.  If the wheels have really shrunk and the spoke is not tight against the felloe band you can try spoke shims that go between the metal felloe and the spoke where it enters the felloe.  The shim is like a washer but is slit slightly smaller than the diameter of the spoke.  You drive it in right at the felloe and it tightens the spoke.  I have used them as a quick fix until I was able to have the wheel rewooded.  I am not a big fan of repairing wheels with loose spokes but it will work in a pinch.  Another better fix is to remove the hub and drive thin metal shims between the loose spokes and then replace the hub and tighten the bolts.  Just be sure to peen the bolts after tightening the nuts or they will back off.  Artillery wheels are less prone to collapse than the spindly spoke wheels on earlier cars but if the wood is rotted at all and not just dried out I would not take any chances and have them redone.

chetbrz

Russ, thanks for the info, I couldn't budge any of the spokes so I think a little TLC will do the trick.  The car has been sitting for the last 4 years in a cool and dry environment.  A little moisture seemed to do the trick. 

Quote from: ski on October 23, 2020, 07:02:47 PM
Same idea here........................   https://www.smokstak.com/forum/threads/linseed-oil-for-wagon.119411/

Ski, I found the thread on restoring old carriages very interesting.  I am going to poke around this a little to figure out what is the best long term solution.  Whatever I do right or wrong I'll let you guys know. 

Tks,  Chet...
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racertb

Chet, you could also try swel-lock in the joints where the wood meets the felloe. When I fixed the few loose spokes I had on the rear left wheel from the inside out, that's what I did and they are extremely tight now. This might be good in addition to what you're considering with linseed oil.

Ted

chetbrz

Since we were talking about linseed oil here is an interesting link about linseed oil from the Natural Handyman.

Linseed Oil - Its Uses and Limitations

Ted,

I may take the wheels off over the winter to paint them.  If I do I will keep your suggestion in mind.  Although it might be too cold to do mid winter maybe in the spring.
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Russ T. Fender

Instead of boiled linseed oil you might try a product called quick poly that is thin as water and is easily absorbed by dry wood.  It dries quickly and seals the wood trapping the liquid that has been absorbed.  It can be sanded and painted or varnished for a natural wood finish and is hard as a rock.   I have used it on dry spongy wood and it works very well.