Hello,
I need to remove my engine for a redo of some kind, but it's a lot more work than I thought. My current work is trying to remove the steering column and maybe the steering box, so I can get clearance to remove the engine, since it has those wide legs on it in the back and won't clear the steering column.
I've removed the clum switch, hardware, and the throttle and headlight levers from the top of the steering wheel. I've also unscrewed the steering column to the point where I can move it by hand now, but it won't come free from the steering box. Obviously, there are gears in there, but I'm not sure what to do to remove the steering column. I wanted to ask the group before I start taking the steering box apart and/or do any damage, in order to try to figure this out.
Thanks for any help! -Chris
The shaft will stay attached to the sector (box)and the steering sector will come out the bottom shaft & all. You will have to take the pitman arm off and unbolt the sector from the frame. While I had mine out I disassembled the sector on the bench & cleaned the old grease out and packed it with John Deer corn head grease. If you don't have the instruction manual get one as it tells how to make all the adjustments. Its different than more modern units I've worked on but simple.
Thanks for the reply! My other problem is that I took off the nut on the steering wheel, but the steering wheel won't budge. Is there something I'm missing on that, or do I just need to use a little more force removing it from the steering column?
May want to leave trans in . Break at engine side of bell housing .
Tom, thanks, I don't need the trans out, so I'll see if I can just leave it in, then.
You will not have to pull column if you split eng/trans . Just drop clutch out . Trans hangs in on wings . As for steering wheel . Yes use puller is taper shaft . to assure no bakelite damage drill metal for pull bolts . Here is pic of me doing mine .
I wasn't sure if the flywheel would come out through the bellhousing. If Tom says it will I'll bet it will. One more thing to remember if you pull the clutch out from the rear you have to take the brake & clutch pedals off and slide the clutch fork out of the way. When you take the brake pedal off and transmission out there is no way to stop the car if you need to move it since the e-brake will be removed too.
I have pulled two of those steering wheels off and they are TIGHT! I made a puller that goes behind the wheel that will get it off without drilling the wheel. If anyone is interested I will post a picture of it.
Pic of tapped bolts .steering pull.jpg
CORRECTION !!!! I miss spoke on trans You still have to remove from bell housing to clear spline shaft . In my case doing on floor got cheap trans jack from Harbor and off-ed one shaft universal and slide back .
The wheel in the above picture is different than my 29 wheel. The puller I made is like the boards you have around the column except its steel plate and has holes for the two jaw puller bolts to bolt to and straps to bolt the two pieces together. Here's a picture of a 29 wheel. I don't know it the center is strong enough to drill & tap holes.
The boards where my first attempt ,but Bakelite started to crack .
Quote from: Articifer Tom on April 04, 2024, 11:14:02 AMCORRECTION !!!! I miss spoke on trans You still have to remove from bell housing to clear spline shaft . In my case doing on floor got cheap trans jack from Harbor and off-ed one shaft universal and slide back .
Tom, I don't fully understand your reply, it seems to be missing some words. Remove what from the bell housing to clear spline shaft? The drive shaft? What does "off-ed one shaft universal" mean? Does this mean remove one of the universal joints from the drive shaft and slide the drive shaft back to remove the spline shaft?
Sorry , to many meds I guess ;D . The trans was slid off the bell housing so spline shaft thur clutch can be removed. However to remove trans, drive shaft must come off one end . Hence off-ed (removed) the universal joint.
Quote from: Articifer Tom on April 04, 2024, 09:54:35 PMSorry , to many meds I guess ;D . The trans was slid off the bell housing so spline shaft thur clutch can be removed. However to remove trans, drive shaft must come off one end . Hence off-ed (removed) the universal joint.
Thanks Tom. This makes sense now. Looks like I have a lot of work to do!
Regards,
Chris
All,
Is there a trick to getting the steering wheel off? I made a setup just like Tom's where I drilled two holes in the steering wheel and I'm trying to use a steering wheel puller to pull it off. I tried removing it with a large crescent wrench on the puller, but this will just stop where I can't pull on it anymore. Some questions for the group:
1) is the 1930 30U steering wheel on a spline, or is there something else in there?
2) Is removal just a matter of brute force and torque? Since the steering wheel must be held in place while using the steering wheel puller, I'm afraid of breaking the steering wheel. I can simply add a pipe extension onto the wrench to get more torque, but what will I end up breaking if this thing doesn't come loose?
3) Tom, how much force and what kind or wrench/tool did you use to twist the nut on the steering wheel puller?
Thanks,
-Chris
OK first of all I have a 29 not a 30 but I suspect the wheel is held the same way as our car had a wheel that looks like yours. It is not splined but had a keyway in the wheel hub and a key on the shaft. I haven't removed the later wheel from the shaft because I replaced the whole assembly. I have two more 29 steering assemblies and I pulled the wheel off both of them. The shaft has a taper and the wheel really gets hard to pull off. I put the puller on it and tightened it more & more while tapping on the end of the puller. Be sure to have the nut on so the threads won't be damaged. The first one was hard to get off but finally came. The second one was even harder. I bent my homemade puller and had to beef it up and it was starting to bend again when it finally came off.
As you have probably figured out there is no way to pull the motor without the bell housing unless the flywheel is removed. If you can't get the wheel off pull the transmission, clutch & brake pedals, clutch fork, clutch and flywheel and you can leave the bellhousing in the car.
Quote from: Touring29 on April 05, 2024, 01:23:37 PMOK first of all I have a 29 not a 30 but I suspect the wheel is held the same way as our car had a wheel that looks like yours. It is not splined but had a keyway in the wheel hub and a key on the shaft. I haven't removed the later wheel from the shaft because I replaced the whole assembly. I have two more 29 steering assemblies and I pulled the wheel off both of them. The shaft has a taper and the wheel really gets hard to pull off. I put the puller on it and tightened it more & more while tapping on the end of the puller. Be sure to have the nut on so the threads won't be damaged. The first one was hard to get off but finally came. The second one was even harder. I bent my homemade puller and had to beef it up and it was starting to bend again when it finally came off.
As you have probably figured out there is no way to pull the motor without the bell housing unless the flywheel is removed. If you can't get the wheel off pull the transmission, clutch & brake pedals, clutch fork, clutch and flywheel and you can leave the bellhousing in the car.
Thank you! This is very helpful. I can't get the wheel off with the tools I have now. I will try removing the trans, clutch/brake pedals, fork, clutch and flywheel, as most of that would have to come out anyway if I decided to remove the whole works.
trans.jpg
Pedal on mine just loosen could not take out . Clutch over and angle up .
Quote from: Articifer Tom on April 06, 2024, 11:07:41 AMtrans.jpg
Pedal on mine just loosen could not take out . Clutch over and angle up .
Thanks, good photo. Looks like this is going to be a huge job for me.
It seems like a huge job but its really not that bad. Just remember that the flywheel is really heavy and don't have your hand under it when you slide it off the back of the crank. I'm old and out of shape but I didn't even slow mine down as it headed to the floor. It didn't get me but it could have. I had to use a jack to get it back in. I need to take ours apart again and replace the rear main seal but its going to have to wait until I do a bunch of other projects.