I am still working on trying to solve my engine vibration
Took the Clutch pressure plate and the flywheel off today and found that five of the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel are 5/16" and one is 3/8". When I checked my spare pressure plate it also had the same size holes, 5 - 5/16" and 1 - 3/8", but, when I check my two extra flywheels I find that all six holes are 5/16" in both of them.
Now I know that some of you have done clutches in your cars, what is the real story. Should they all be 5/16" and why would one be 3/8"? I kind of thought the 3/8" bolt was so that it always went back in the same position on the flywheel.
Is this difference in size enough to cause a sever vibration problem with the engine?
I am going to take them (both sets of flywheel and clutch plates) in tomorrow for testing and balancing, but sure would like your input about why we may have different size bolts and if you think that is maybe a cause for my problem.
Gary
Gary, Guess I just need to shrug my shoulders on that one, I have heard the Flywheel needs to be in the correct place, maybe Chet or Tod (Maybe Tods Site has some info.) will come up with something for this problem. Good Luck,
Glenn
On my 29U the flywheel will only go on one way.
When I had my engine balanced, the machine shop did not use the clutch, only the flywheel, crankshaft and pully. It runs smooth.
I do not think one slightly oversize hole and bolt would make that much difference. That is only a few grams, not enough to matter.
Mine were all 5/16's. The flywheel could be bolted up any way. There way not just only one way it go on, unlike my 42 buick. I bet someone stripped the hole and drilled it out and treaded it for the next size up. It will make a unbalanced flywheel but I would be bet that it would vbe very min and probably not the cause of a major unblalance problem.
rusty
Hi Guys !!
I have worked on quite a few engine rebuilds and tend to agree 100% with Rusty !
When my engine gets pulled down in future will be getting full rotating assembly balance. (Its not a smooth engine)
Any further news on Balancing Gary ?
I had some of the guys out and we played with the car last weekend, on the 26th. They convinced me to take the flywheel and clutch plate in for a balance ckeck before pulling the complete engine.
I just got it back Thursday and it was way out of balance. He had to drill two holes in the flywheel and had to drill out the back of the plate in the pressure plate. Interesting but they drill down inside the springs to the back of the pressure plate.
Anyway we went on a nice tour today to a nice collection of cars, had lunch and then toured one of the old parts supplies that just opened up a new shop. Had a great day.
Tomorrow I will start putting it back together, but have the radiator off being cleaned out, so running it is probably a few days away.
Thanks for asking.
Can't wait to hear result ! I. Hope it works out for you.
Hi Tony, Shipped your shocks the other day. Waiting for Post Office to get the correct box to ship the Spark Plug Wire Holder. Will advise.
Gary
Did they say how much weight needed to be removed to make it balanced?
rusty
No, he didn't say how much he hd to remove. But, he did say that he has had rebuilt clutch pressure plates that were so far off that he couldn't balance them at all. He simple gave them back to the owners. In some cases they had them redone, moved the parts around, and they could then be done.
Gary
Hi Gary !
Have yoo got motor back together yet?
Thanks Tony.
Delays - Delays - Delays.
Had some fellows from the Plymouth club out Saturday. but, as luck would have it the suppiers that wer supposed to deliver didn't. NAPA was supposed to have my cleaned and surfaced head back first thing Saturday morning. Didn't perform. Automotive Friction was supposed to have my water pump rebuilt, but didn't get it that Friday. Still waiting for calls from both outfits.
Anyway we did get some donuts and coffee put away and helped some of the members answer some question about problems they were having.
Will post some pictures etc. later.
Gary
How is Plymouth coming along ?
Mine is soon to be on road legally it has passed road worthy certificate !
Got delayed with other things, but got it running today and ALASS balance job on flywheel and pressure plate didn't help.
I got down and looked real close and it appeared that one of the rear motor mounts may have gave way and let the mount sag down to touch the fram rail. I loosened it up and jacked the engine up so the mount wasn't touching the frame and still a vibration. This is still enough to rattle the gauges in the dash.
I am at my wits end. I guess it is back to where I was a few weeks ago and pull the engine for a complete balance job.
Somebody PLEASE advise. It looks like pulling the engine is no easy job. Do you need to take the bell housing off before pulling the engine?
Can you change the rear motor mounts without pulling the engine?
Where can I find replacement or revulcanized rear motor mounts?
But, the plus side is, the engine seems to run great after the engine cleaning and the rebuilt distributor.
Gary
Hi Gary !!
I can help you with rear engine mounts I have only one set spare that I had made they are identical to originals except for press metal plates are fabricated,oncethey are installed you cant tell the difference from original.
Engine mounts can be removed with engine bellhousing in place.
There are slots on bellhousing side of mounts they will slide out to the rear of car.
Hi Gary !!
Correction brackets between bellhousing & engine mounts once unbolted can slide out then engine mounts can be removed hope I have not confused you .
The engine and u-joint rubber discs can be removed with the bell housing left in car. Does the engine vibrate with the car setting still at an idle or does it vibrate while car is moving?
Yea, I figured out how to get the mounts out, Thanks Tony. Just jacked up the back of the engine. Got the rubber mounts out and sure enough they were bad. They had slipped and let the engine come downto touch the frame rails.
I called a few of the classic car parts places and actually found 1 (one) NOS, but they wanted $180.00 - NO WAY. A couple others had old prices for redoing the vulcanizing at about $320 to $350 per pair and indicated that price was probably not good any more.
I called around and found a company here in the Portland area that still does the old fashioned hot vulcanizing. That is their only business, the hot process not the new RTV (room temperture vulcanizing). He has mine, and a spare I had on the shelf. I will check how good they really are when I get them back, but I may be starting to market them for about $180 to $200. per set.
Thanks for all the help everyone.
Gary
P.S. Yes the engine vibration was when the can was setting still not moving.
8) If the vibration is with the car not moving it has to be the engine. Here are a few things to try. Make sure the spark plug wires are in the right location in the distributor cap. Then check the spark plug wires at each spark plug for a hot spark when cranking it over. Set the gap and try a different set of spark plugs. Some times even new spark plugs are bad. A dead cylinder for any reason will make an engine vibrate. Make sure the compression is even on all cylinders. Is the coil putting out a STRONG BLUE spark? After the engine runs for a while , pull all the plugs and see if one plug is wetter then the rest. That would give an indication as to which cylinder may have a problem. As a rule engines don't get that far out of balance internally from ware. There is an answer in there some place. It will be interesting to find out the solution. Happy hunting - Rich
Thanks again for all the input. Every different idea or suggestion helps to narrow down the problem.
Will be about 3 weeks to get my motor mounts back, Then we will try again.
Happy Motoring, Gary
Gary, A couple thoughts... Did you try running the engine with the fan belts removed (to eliminate Fan, Waterpump, and Generator). Also, the front pulley/vibration damper could be out of balance if it is anything like later models. Also, did you have the oil pan off? Not a tough job, then you can see if anything is in the pan, and check the piston skirts and cylinder walls (with a little streaching lol) One more thing, does the vibration seem to be in sync with the engine RPMs? Good Luck,
SD Glenn
Hi Gary !
How is work on Plymouth going ?
Happy days are coming. I got my rear motor mounts redone and got rid of most (not all) of the vibration. I found that the left side rear motor mount had let loose and allowed the inner plate of the motor mount to rest on the frame rail. When we took the mount apart we found that the carrage bolts inside the mount had the heads rubbing directly on each other and had worn themselves flat.
If anyone is in need of a revulcanized pair I had two pair done. This spare pair is available.
For $179.00, and your rebuildable pair I will send you a new redone set by return mail. They will fit in a small flat rate US mail box. Need your old ones so the next guy can have his to.
I had some other issues, but the car is running and goes on it's first tour of the year on May 14th. Missed our first club tour last weekend to the big Woodburn Tulip Festival. On the 14th we go to what is called "Papa's Toys" which is car collection in Cornelious, OR. This is a collection of 169 "Classics, Collector and Custom cars" that is open to the public once a year. There is no charge for addmission and all donations go to Doernbecher Children Hospital.
Should be a good day.
Gary