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Topics - Gary 30U

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General Discussion / BIG BAD VIBRATION
« on: September 03, 2014, 08:28:05 AM »

As some of you know I have been fighting a bad vibration now for several years. This may take a little space, but I think it is important to tell the whole story.
When  I first got my car going (about 6 years ago), it had a bad vibration. This vibration was related to the engine RPM only. I was not affected by speed, road conditions etc. In fact you would get a bad vibration if you were setting still and revved the engine. The vibration occurred while the engine was in compression and slowing. While decelerating from 35 to 25 mile per hour it would nearly shake the car apart.

I did all kinds of things, checked timing, (had the distributor rebuilt, as it had a loose shaft), checked for anything solidly connected from the engine to body or frame (I did find a couple minor things), found the front motor mount was bad and replaced it. STILL NO  CHANGE IN VIBRATION Thought the front motor mount was it as it was bolted direct though to the frame.

I thought if the front motor mount was bad, well what about the rear ones. Sure enough the one had delaminated itself and the inside plate was sitting on the frame. I had an extra set of plates, so I took them in to a company here in Oregon and had them re-vulcanized. I took out the old motor mounts and replaced them with the rebuilt ones. STILL HAD THE VIBRATION

Over the last few years I have tried anything anyone suggested.

I took the car to a Cruise-In up the Columbia River gorge last Saturday, (about 100 miles each way) and said this is enough, I have to fix these rattles. Well after I got started I figured I would try to fix the vibration which caused the rattles.

One of the fellows in our Tech Committee had suggested that maybe the new rear motor mounts were bad. I had kind of dismissed that idea, as they were new.

If you know how the rear mounts are constructed they have a 1/2" rubber sheet vulcanized between two steel plates that have 4 carriage bolts sticking out each side for mounting to the frame and the motor. Well I took out one of the motor mounts today, and sure enough if was bad. Using an ohm meter I found that two of the heads of the carriage bolts hidden in the rubber were in fact touching.

As it so happens I had another set of motor mounts and was able to replace that one with a good one.

I took out the other side mount and it tested OK, but I replaced it anyway.

GUESS WHAT. I took it for a test drive and it was like a completely different car. NO VIBRATION

After so many years of fighting it, I think I finally won.

The moral to this story is simple. Just because you just replaced it, doesn't mean it can't be BAD.

Just something to think about,

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

General Discussion / HELP - BATTERY BOILED
« on: February 09, 2013, 03:57:17 AM »
I'm not sure what to do. I put my battery charger on my car yesterday, as my battery was low when I tried to start my car.

I set the timer and locked up the shop. But, today I went to the shop and when I opened the door I could smell the battery acid. The timer on the charger didn't functio and the battery was boiling.

HELP. Do I need to do anything special to the upholstrery and or any other items like paint to protect it. The smell of battery acid is terrible and I'm sure the fumes have permiatted everything around.

Any suggestions would be really welcome. Washing with soda, dry clening, anything PLEASE.

Gary R. - Happy Motoring

General Discussion / Throttle and Light switch levers
« on: May 24, 2012, 07:51:51 AM »
I know that somewhere on this site someone had reproductions of these levers at one time. Can't seem to find them with a search. I know a fellow that could use some if available. Any help would be appreciated.

Happy Motoring, Gary

General Discussion / Anyone Home
« on: December 06, 2011, 03:47:54 AM »
I know that things are getting cold, and most all our cars are stored away for the winter, but did everyone hibernat like a bear?

Seems like the two primary Plymouth sites are just plain dead at this time.

Happy Motoring,


General Discussion / Fuel Pump rebuild
« on: September 17, 2011, 05:58:28 AM »
Anyone know someone who is good at rebuilding the fuel pump for the 30U?

Found a couple on the internet, but would like a reference for someone you know about not just an ad.

Thanks, Gary

General Discussion / Wood Wheel Paint?
« on: August 04, 2011, 02:21:42 AM »
I know some of you have had to make this decision before, but the question is who likes (or dislikes) what kind of paint?

One of my wheels is in really bad shape, and the spokes in another are starting to wear, so it is time to start thinking about redoing all of them. There is a fellow here locally, Jim Kanne, that makes and installs replacement spokes, But he is a little e xpensive and requires a lot of time.

I want to know what is the best paint and primer to use. Should the rim be painted first before installing the spokes, maybe powder coated?

Who is another good refurbisher for these wheels? Maybe someone is less expensive than Jim.


General Discussion / Water pump problems - not again
« on: August 01, 2011, 08:21:51 AM »
If most of you are like me you have had some problems or concerns with the packings in your pumps. In my case the packing never leaked when running, but after it was parked and cooled down, then it would drip. I took mine in to have it rebuilt, but they said that they were not sure the one off the car could be rebuilt as it was in pretty bad shape.

I took them a spare that I had and they rebuilt it for me. I got a chance to talk to Ron, (the founder of the company)who is the father of the current operaotr. I asked Ron why, with all the new seals for hot tubes, swimming pools etc., why we couldn't have something other than a old fashioned packing to seal these pumps. He indicated that he had been thinking the same thing and thought he could put something together but didn't have a corefor my 30U left in his supply to work with. I told him he had one right there on the counter as they had told me it may not be repairable.

Ron took thet unit and bored out the front section and installed two bearings in place of the bushing. He also bored out the back section and installed two bearings and a new ceramic seal. He also installed a new shaft and a high volume directional impeller. To make it look original he bored out the jam nut and pressed it over the portion of the bearing that stuck out the back section. We put in two new oil caps and you can't tell it from an original. I have only had the car out maybe 5 times since the rebuild, but have got maybe 200 - 250 miles on it with not problems.

Again the fellows name is Ron Anderson at Automotive Friction Co. 20521 SE Highway 212, Damascus, Oregon, USA 97089. Phone is 503-353-7595. They sometinmes advertise in Hemming and all they do is clutches, and water pumps for old cars, trucks and tractors.

When I talked to Ron a couple days ago, I think he told me he had just done a pair of pumps (with the new seals) for a 1913 Cadilac V8.

Hope this helps some of you that may need work done.


General Discussion / Babbitt to inserts?
« on: May 25, 2011, 07:15:18 PM »
I am looking for any insight you folks might have. I heard a rumor that there is a conversion process available to change the babbitt mains in the four cyl cars to common insert bearings.

If anyone knows anything about this process, what is involved, who might perform this work, and costs PLEASE advise.

Thanks, Gary
from rainy Oregon

General Discussion / Rear engine mounts
« on: April 21, 2011, 07:01:49 AM »
Can anyone tell me the difference  between the rear motor (bell housing) mounts for the 28 - 30 four cylinder cars?

I see the parts book lists different numbers for the Q, U and 30U.

I just had mine revulcanized (30U) and had a spare set done. would like to know if they fit anything other than the 30U.


General Discussion / Windshield crank
« on: March 23, 2011, 06:10:28 PM »

Right now on eBay is a crank mechanism advertised for the 28-29 and 30 Plymouth. It is a little different from my 30 (it has inclosed gear box) but should work well for any of them.

Listing ends Mar 28th at 13:12:14.

Good luck in your quest.


General Discussion / Brighter head lights
« on: March 16, 2011, 09:55:01 PM »
Some time ago there wer a couple threads that dealt with headlights, wireing etc.

One way that I improved my lights on my 30U was to have the reflectors done by UVIRA with a powdered aluminum and glass coating. A little costly, but permanent and very effective.

But the other thing that helped was to ground the actual light socket. I went inside the buckets and attached a ground wire to each of the actual light bulb sockets. I ran that wire down through the headlight bucket attachment bolt into the headlight bar. I did have to drill a small hole up throught the attachment bolt. This wire was then run inside the wire harness down to under the center crossmember. Here I took the wire out and attached it directly to the frame. Just a way to get a good positive ground without trying to get through all the paint joints.

It worked for me and may help someone else.


General Discussion / Rear Spring Hangers
« on: March 03, 2011, 08:26:17 AM »
A friend has a 28Q which has had the shoulders ground off where the rear spring shackles hang. They used straight pieces of 1/4" flat bar in place of the original shackles.

I can't tell if there is a pin that goes through the chassis end like in the spring. We have tried to punch it out, heated it, just can't seem to get any action or movement.

Is there a Pin??? and Does it come out???

Any suggestions on how to get it back to original so we can use original shackles would be appreciated.


General Discussion / Clutch concerns - Help
« on: February 13, 2011, 02:05:10 AM »
I am still working on trying to solve my engine vibration

Took the Clutch pressure plate and the flywheel off today and found that five of the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel are 5/16" and one is 3/8". When I checked my spare pressure plate it also had the same size holes, 5 - 5/16" and 1 - 3/8", but, when I check my two extra flywheels I find that all six holes are 5/16" in both of them.

Now I know that some of you have done clutches in your cars, what is the real story. Should they all be 5/16" and why would one be 3/8"? I kind of thought the 3/8" bolt was so that it always went back in the same position on the flywheel.

Is this difference in size enough to cause a sever vibration problem with the engine?

I am going to take them (both sets of flywheel and clutch plates) in tomorrow for testing and balancing, but sure would like your input about why we may have different size bolts and if you think that is maybe a cause for my problem.


General Discussion / Distributor slop
« on: January 17, 2011, 04:48:03 AM »
I decided to have my distributor rebuilt, as there was some play in the shaft and I figured the bushings were worn.

THE BIGGER PROBLEM? When I went to take the distributor out I found that there was a lot of slop ( I could turn the distributor shaft) about 5+ degrees in the slot in the gear at the bottom of the hole where the distributor goes into the front of the engine. It appears that there is a gear down there that runs off the crank or the cam. I can pull the gear up, but it won't come out the hole where the distributor goes in.

I plan on pulling the engine next month, (Yes -Still trying to find my vibration problem), How do I go about fixing the looseness between the distributor shaft and the gear??? Any ideas would be appreciated.

Hope all of you are getting your winter fixings done.


General Discussion / Honeycomb Radiator Belch
« on: October 02, 2010, 07:12:00 AM »
One of those problems that won't go away.

When I started driving my 30U I had what I first thought was an overheating problem. I could drive the car for about 10 or 15 minutes and the radiator would just belch coolant out the cap and all over the engine and body. When I would go to put more water in it (stop at the service station) you could take the cap off and look inside to see the circulation of the coolant. It was NOT hot, even to the touch. I put more water in and it just did the same thing over and over again.

I was told that I should leave the water level down to just above the tubes, as that is the normal level it seeks. Didn't seem to help.

I took the water pump off and had it rebuilt. Still no help.

At one point I noted that the water level was down below the level of the internal tubes and there appeared to be quite a bit of rust on the top of the tubes. Hey, I had found the problem. I ran some radiator cleaner throught the engine (twice just to make sure) and thought that would solve the problem. NOT. Things proceeded as before. No rust showing, but still the belching.

The water pump didn't sound good and I had it rebuilt again. There is lots of circulation in the system, but still no help.

I then thought maybe there could be a stuck thermostat. I didn't think so because of the constant circulation but at least I took a look. Removed the hose connector from the top of the head and as I thought there was no thermostat at all.

At one point I thought that it might be a coolant isssue and tried it with just plain water. Still no change. The other day I drove it to the club meeting, about 15 miles in 75 degree heat and no problem. On the way home that evening in 65 degree weather it did it twice.

If anyone has had this problem, or any ideas on how to correct it please advise. I am going to pull the engine this winter to check for vibration and balance issues and would like to solve this problem at the same time.


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