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Messages - Gary 30U

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1
General Discussion / Re: Reproduction Handles
« on: January 16, 2017, 09:43:03 PM »
Sorry, giving bad info. Tried to contact Verdone's this morning, but the numbers are no longer valid. Guess the previous comment about her passing might be right.

I would like to get a set of handles for my 30U coupe. Need 2 door handles, 2 window cranks, and the short handle for the windshield mechanism.

Happy Motoring

Gary R.

2
General Discussion / Re: Reproduction Handles
« on: January 16, 2017, 07:26:49 AM »
Have not delt with her for a while, but there was a Marge Verdone, in Newmanstown, PA. that did the our handles in stainless. Easy to nickel plate (the correct finish). If I remember correctly they where about 100-125 each as well.
Try 1-717-949-3341 or email VERDONES@everlink. com

Happy Motoring
Gary R.

3
General Discussion / Re: Manifold gasket
« on: August 12, 2016, 08:31:49 PM »
Be careful, I bought a set of the exhaust manifold rings (ferrules) for my 30U off of Ebay. I set them aside as I was rebuilding the engine, and when I went to use them they were way to big, but advertised as for the 29-32 Plymouth. I didn't have them before and still don't have them. Just used a good one piece gasket from Olson's Gaskets and works fine.

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

4
General Discussion / Re: 29 u
« on: June 16, 2016, 06:14:25 AM »
Carmen, When I first got my 30U, (which has the water pump) I would have problems with it belching water about every fee minutes. What I found is that I had a plugged radiator. If would build up pressure and when it would release and flow it would blow out around the cap. It was never hot as you could hold your finger in the radiator. Took the radiator out and had it flushed, took the water pump off and flushed out the engine block. You couldn't believe all the crap that came out. Anyway had the water pump rebuilt (which is a special story of it's own) and haven't had any problems since.

5
General Discussion / Re: of Door Locks and Outside Handles
« on: June 16, 2016, 05:56:23 AM »
Hi John,

Two things here: First  the spring is supposed to go behind the door panel, not behind the escutcheon. If you put it behind hte escutcheon you create a space between the door handle and the door panel. the purpose of the spring is to hold the door panel out and make a good fit with the door handle and escutcheon.

Second, Yes I did try to fix the dropped handle with a stronger spring.  Mind you mine is a 30U, but still the same.
Don't do it, my handles are to hard to turn. Most people go up to my car and tell me the doors are locked. Someday I will take the panels and locks out and replace the tough spring. I have a collection of springs so can replace with originals. When you look closely the holes in my lock mechanism are just facing down slightly.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Gary R., Happy Motoring

6
General Discussion / Re: 30U needs water pump help
« on: June 10, 2016, 02:23:15 AM »
Sorry to be so late to this issue, but some info for all.

Years ago I had water pump problems on my 30U. Would leak after every run.

One day I was talking to Ron at Automotive Friction Company in Damascus Oregon. I asked that if there were so many pools and spas out there why couldn't we find a modern ceramic seal that would work on my water pump. Ron stated he would like to work on that project, but he didn't have any pump cores left to play with.

I gave Ron one of my cores and he rebuilt it with new sealed bearing in and out. A new modern impeller for great water flow. And best of all a modern ceramic seal. He even bored the packing nut out to fit over the exposed bearing and fitted it so it looks like the original, even has the oil spouts.

Been down the road to a fair number of show and tours and NO problems.

Now I don't know what it might cost to have yours done this way because he did mine for free as research and development.

If you contact them about doing yours be sure to tell them just what you want, not just a common rebuild

Automotive Friction Co., 20521 SW Hwy 212, Damascus ,OR 97089, ph. 800-545-9088

Happy Motoring,

Gary R.


7
John, looks great. B nice to her back on the road again.

Happy Motoring,

Gary R

8
General Discussion / Re: current vehicle status plus a question
« on: May 12, 2016, 01:00:40 AM »
Sure looks like a great project. Glad you got some time with it before a tear down.

Check to see if the numbers on the frame might have something to do with a serial number from Plymouth or Holden.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Gary R.

9
General Discussion / Re: Another diassembly question
« on: March 25, 2016, 04:36:14 AM »
NO, there is a nut on the end of the crankshaft which has the notches for the hand crank. Take this off and the pulley is set on the crank with a keyway.

I am just starting to get my engine back together after a complete rebuild.

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

10
General Discussion / Re: '30-U
« on: October 30, 2015, 01:00:33 AM »
Welcome. I have a 30U Business Coupe. As someone mentioned rebuilds seem take forever. I have been fighting an RPM sensitive vibration for some years and decided to have the engine balanced. Found out I had some serious babbit problems along with some other problems. To make a long story short I had a fellow up near Spokane, WA do my babbit work and had some problems with the rod surfaces. Been over six months in this project and STILL waiting to get my second set of rods back.

Happy Motoring,
Gary R. (Wilsonville, OR)

11
General Discussion / Re: carburetor for 29 U & 30 U
« on: September 15, 2015, 09:44:17 PM »
I think Frank is correct. The RT-08 on the 28, 29 and early 30U. The DRT-08 (much easier to fine) used on the late 30-U and 31 and 32.

Just my guess.

Gary R.

12
General Discussion / Re: Gasket Material - Intake to Exhaust
« on: May 10, 2015, 11:20:02 PM »
The easyest answer is to call Sandi at Olson's Gaskets in Port Orchard, WA at 360-871-1207. He has been in the gasket business forever. I just got a brand new set of gaskets for my 30U rebuild job. He will have the CORRECT gaskets for your job. Try him at www.olsongasket.com

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

13
General Discussion / Re: Wiper Motor Switch vs. Dash Light Switch
« on: October 18, 2014, 07:59:08 AM »
I checked the Master Parts Book - for all Prior to 1934 and it lists two different Wiper Motors, one for Closed cars i.e Coupes and sedans (part number 79544) and one for open bodied cars (part number 43704) i.e. for phaeton and roadster. I believe that the closed body cars had the control knob under the dash, and the open bodied cars had the control as part of the wiper motor itself.

Check with Ficken Wiper Service, West Babylon, NY. 631-587-3332, or Kent Jaquith, Redmond, OR. 541-923-4319. they should be able to give you good info. Kent rebuilt the original for my 30U Coupe when everyone told me that there were no good ones as they all distorted (pot metal).

Just a bit of infor, the early ones had two screws holding on the cover, and the later ones (1931) the cover just clipped on. Sorry I can't recall the numbers, but Kent could tell you.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Happy Motoring,
Gary R.

14
General Discussion / BIG BAD VIBRATION
« on: September 03, 2014, 08:28:05 AM »

As some of you know I have been fighting a bad vibration now for several years. This may take a little space, but I think it is important to tell the whole story.
When  I first got my car going (about 6 years ago), it had a bad vibration. This vibration was related to the engine RPM only. I was not affected by speed, road conditions etc. In fact you would get a bad vibration if you were setting still and revved the engine. The vibration occurred while the engine was in compression and slowing. While decelerating from 35 to 25 mile per hour it would nearly shake the car apart.

I did all kinds of things, checked timing, (had the distributor rebuilt, as it had a loose shaft), checked for anything solidly connected from the engine to body or frame (I did find a couple minor things), found the front motor mount was bad and replaced it. STILL NO  CHANGE IN VIBRATION Thought the front motor mount was it as it was bolted direct though to the frame.

I thought if the front motor mount was bad, well what about the rear ones. Sure enough the one had delaminated itself and the inside plate was sitting on the frame. I had an extra set of plates, so I took them in to a company here in Oregon and had them re-vulcanized. I took out the old motor mounts and replaced them with the rebuilt ones. STILL HAD THE VIBRATION

Over the last few years I have tried anything anyone suggested.

I took the car to a Cruise-In up the Columbia River gorge last Saturday, (about 100 miles each way) and said this is enough, I have to fix these rattles. Well after I got started I figured I would try to fix the vibration which caused the rattles.

One of the fellows in our Tech Committee had suggested that maybe the new rear motor mounts were bad. I had kind of dismissed that idea, as they were new.

If you know how the rear mounts are constructed they have a 1/2" rubber sheet vulcanized between two steel plates that have 4 carriage bolts sticking out each side for mounting to the frame and the motor. Well I took out one of the motor mounts today, and sure enough if was bad. Using an ohm meter I found that two of the heads of the carriage bolts hidden in the rubber were in fact touching.

As it so happens I had another set of motor mounts and was able to replace that one with a good one.

I took out the other side mount and it tested OK, but I replaced it anyway.

GUESS WHAT. I took it for a test drive and it was like a completely different car. NO VIBRATION

After so many years of fighting it, I think I finally won.

The moral to this story is simple. Just because you just replaced it, doesn't mean it can't be BAD.

Just something to think about,

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

15
I would really like to have a good copy of this S

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