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Messages - Gary 30U

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General Discussion / Re: '30-U
« on: October 30, 2015, 01:00:33 AM »
Welcome. I have a 30U Business Coupe. As someone mentioned rebuilds seem take forever. I have been fighting an RPM sensitive vibration for some years and decided to have the engine balanced. Found out I had some serious babbit problems along with some other problems. To make a long story short I had a fellow up near Spokane, WA do my babbit work and had some problems with the rod surfaces. Been over six months in this project and STILL waiting to get my second set of rods back.

Happy Motoring,
Gary R. (Wilsonville, OR)

General Discussion / Re: carburetor for 29 U & 30 U
« on: September 15, 2015, 09:44:17 PM »
I think Frank is correct. The RT-08 on the 28, 29 and early 30U. The DRT-08 (much easier to fine) used on the late 30-U and 31 and 32.

Just my guess.

Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: Gasket Material - Intake to Exhaust
« on: May 10, 2015, 11:20:02 PM »
The easyest answer is to call Sandi at Olson's Gaskets in Port Orchard, WA at 360-871-1207. He has been in the gasket business forever. I just got a brand new set of gaskets for my 30U rebuild job. He will have the CORRECT gaskets for your job. Try him at

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: Wiper Motor Switch vs. Dash Light Switch
« on: October 18, 2014, 07:59:08 AM »
I checked the Master Parts Book - for all Prior to 1934 and it lists two different Wiper Motors, one for Closed cars i.e Coupes and sedans (part number 79544) and one for open bodied cars (part number 43704) i.e. for phaeton and roadster. I believe that the closed body cars had the control knob under the dash, and the open bodied cars had the control as part of the wiper motor itself.

Check with Ficken Wiper Service, West Babylon, NY. 631-587-3332, or Kent Jaquith, Redmond, OR. 541-923-4319. they should be able to give you good info. Kent rebuilt the original for my 30U Coupe when everyone told me that there were no good ones as they all distorted (pot metal).

Just a bit of infor, the early ones had two screws holding on the cover, and the later ones (1931) the cover just clipped on. Sorry I can't recall the numbers, but Kent could tell you.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Happy Motoring,
Gary R.

General Discussion / BIG BAD VIBRATION
« on: September 03, 2014, 08:28:05 AM »

As some of you know I have been fighting a bad vibration now for several years. This may take a little space, but I think it is important to tell the whole story.
When  I first got my car going (about 6 years ago), it had a bad vibration. This vibration was related to the engine RPM only. I was not affected by speed, road conditions etc. In fact you would get a bad vibration if you were setting still and revved the engine. The vibration occurred while the engine was in compression and slowing. While decelerating from 35 to 25 mile per hour it would nearly shake the car apart.

I did all kinds of things, checked timing, (had the distributor rebuilt, as it had a loose shaft), checked for anything solidly connected from the engine to body or frame (I did find a couple minor things), found the front motor mount was bad and replaced it. STILL NO  CHANGE IN VIBRATION Thought the front motor mount was it as it was bolted direct though to the frame.

I thought if the front motor mount was bad, well what about the rear ones. Sure enough the one had delaminated itself and the inside plate was sitting on the frame. I had an extra set of plates, so I took them in to a company here in Oregon and had them re-vulcanized. I took out the old motor mounts and replaced them with the rebuilt ones. STILL HAD THE VIBRATION

Over the last few years I have tried anything anyone suggested.

I took the car to a Cruise-In up the Columbia River gorge last Saturday, (about 100 miles each way) and said this is enough, I have to fix these rattles. Well after I got started I figured I would try to fix the vibration which caused the rattles.

One of the fellows in our Tech Committee had suggested that maybe the new rear motor mounts were bad. I had kind of dismissed that idea, as they were new.

If you know how the rear mounts are constructed they have a 1/2" rubber sheet vulcanized between two steel plates that have 4 carriage bolts sticking out each side for mounting to the frame and the motor. Well I took out one of the motor mounts today, and sure enough if was bad. Using an ohm meter I found that two of the heads of the carriage bolts hidden in the rubber were in fact touching.

As it so happens I had another set of motor mounts and was able to replace that one with a good one.

I took out the other side mount and it tested OK, but I replaced it anyway.

GUESS WHAT. I took it for a test drive and it was like a completely different car. NO VIBRATION

After so many years of fighting it, I think I finally won.

The moral to this story is simple. Just because you just replaced it, doesn't mean it can't be BAD.

Just something to think about,

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

I would really like to have a good copy of this S

General Discussion / Re: Carriage bolts on ends of bumpers
« on: February 17, 2014, 08:03:02 AM »
The bumper bolts on the end (at least on my 30U) were not really carriage bolts. They have a dimple out one side directly under the head. This dimple lines up with the notch created when the bumper is wrapped around. This keeps the bolt from turning. If your bolt turns you can cut the nut as previously noted, or the parts store will sell you a nut breaker which is just a chisel head in an enclosed circle that you can turn in with a wrench to break the nut. Didn't explain it very well but you get the idea.

If you bolts are like mine they have the rather thick flattened head rather than being rounded like a carriage bolt. I don't know of any source for replacement originals. I thought about taking some longer bolts, having the heads turned down and having them chromed, but just settled on some Ford bumper bolts off of eBay. Make sure the lenght is correct, as there are sever different lenghts, and they ae just one size smaller than the originals. Not sure but if I remember ours are 9/16" and the Ford was 1/2", but could be wrong.

Happy Motoring,

Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: @@@ IMPORTANT UPGRADE Notice @@@
« on: February 11, 2014, 08:40:09 AM »
Chet, This is so much better. Somethimes I would just get so frustrated at the old system I would just stay away for while until I just had to look. This is so fast and seemless it is great.

Thanks again and Happy Motoring


General Discussion / Re: Exhaust Manifold metal rings.
« on: January 14, 2014, 02:55:00 AM »
Not sure if I am speaking out of turn here, but on my 30U I just use a standard one piece exhaust gasket provided by Olson's Gaskets and have had no problems.

I have seen the "tubes" but never thought them necessary.

Just my input and thoughts.

Happy Motoring,
Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: Collector Car Insurance - Thoughts
« on: January 14, 2014, 02:44:56 AM »
Hi Guys,

When I got my 30U, some ten years ago now, I looked at different ways of getting insurance, thinking I had to get some special antique car coverage.

I ended up talking to my regular State Farm agent and he said he could cover it with no problems. The only restiction is that it is licensed as an antique vehicle and abide by those rules. No special restrictions. I drive to shows, tours, and meetings all the time.

I have a declared value ($18,000) full coverage policy with $100 deductible on comprehensive, and $250 deductible on collision. To date the cost is less than $160 per year.

As indicated elseware the proof will be in the pudding if I crash it, but to date am prefectly happy.

Happy Motoring,
Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: Carter carb
« on: December 07, 2013, 03:30:28 AM »
Thanks Aussie, this is a great site.

After a few more tries got all three to come up fine.

Always good to know of good resources like this. Hadn't heard of Mike's before.

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: Carter carb
« on: November 24, 2013, 08:24:31 PM »

Which accelerator pump do you have, the long or short?

Maybe I could get the seal for you and just send it as a letter if that would be cheaper.

Checked on the computer, and it looks like a letter would be like $2.50 US.

Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: Carter carb
« on: November 24, 2013, 08:12:29 AM »

Carburetor Exchange, 1636 North 43rd Ave, Phoenix, AZ 85009, USA, phone has kits and when I got mine for a DRT08 they were not at all unreasonable.

Another you might try is The Carburetor Shop, LLC., 204 East 15th Street, Eldon, Missouri, USA phone 573-392-7378, or

Or maybe Bob Clark in Virginia, USA Email at or He rebuilds them and sells on eBay.

If these don't work for you I have a list of 3 or 4 more to try.

If you are going to change to a more modern carb I would like a chance to get you DRT-08, as I would like a spare.

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: Tire Pressure?
« on: November 22, 2013, 06:07:59 AM »
Checked the Instruction Book for the "Q", Third edition October 1928, and the first and second editions for the "30U" and all three say 40 PSI in the front, and 35 PSI in the rear. but that was based on the tires made at the time. I would tend to go with the pressures sited by Frank. I have been running my Firestone 19X4.5/5.00 at 32 PSI and they seem to ride and wear just fine.

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

As noted by "Old Man" the handles and escutcheons shown in the pics from "Highway 99" are the correct ones for the 28-30 Plymouth. There are three examples of original 28's here locally and they all have that design.  NOTE: the escutcheons have the two rings around the outside base.

There is a company "Verdone's" that reproduces them in stainless. I haven't bought any yet as I have a complete set (after 4 years of looking) that I am thinking of having replated (nickel).

If you want you can try - Marge Verdone, 31 Stricklerstown Loop Rd., Newmanstown, PA 17073, Phone 717-949-3341 eMail

The last price I got from her in 2010 was $432.00 for a complete set of 5 for my coupe.

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

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