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Messages - Gary 30U

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General Discussion / Re: Carriage bolts on ends of bumpers
« on: February 17, 2014, 08:03:02 AM »
The bumper bolts on the end (at least on my 30U) were not really carriage bolts. They have a dimple out one side directly under the head. This dimple lines up with the notch created when the bumper is wrapped around. This keeps the bolt from turning. If your bolt turns you can cut the nut as previously noted, or the parts store will sell you a nut breaker which is just a chisel head in an enclosed circle that you can turn in with a wrench to break the nut. Didn't explain it very well but you get the idea.

If you bolts are like mine they have the rather thick flattened head rather than being rounded like a carriage bolt. I don't know of any source for replacement originals. I thought about taking some longer bolts, having the heads turned down and having them chromed, but just settled on some Ford bumper bolts off of eBay. Make sure the lenght is correct, as there are sever different lenghts, and they ae just one size smaller than the originals. Not sure but if I remember ours are 9/16" and the Ford was 1/2", but could be wrong.

Happy Motoring,

Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: @@@ IMPORTANT UPGRADE Notice @@@
« on: February 11, 2014, 08:40:09 AM »
Chet, This is so much better. Somethimes I would just get so frustrated at the old system I would just stay away for while until I just had to look. This is so fast and seemless it is great.

Thanks again and Happy Motoring


General Discussion / Re: Exhaust Manifold metal rings.
« on: January 14, 2014, 02:55:00 AM »
Not sure if I am speaking out of turn here, but on my 30U I just use a standard one piece exhaust gasket provided by Olson's Gaskets and have had no problems.

I have seen the "tubes" but never thought them necessary.

Just my input and thoughts.

Happy Motoring,
Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: Collector Car Insurance - Thoughts
« on: January 14, 2014, 02:44:56 AM »
Hi Guys,

When I got my 30U, some ten years ago now, I looked at different ways of getting insurance, thinking I had to get some special antique car coverage.

I ended up talking to my regular State Farm agent and he said he could cover it with no problems. The only restiction is that it is licensed as an antique vehicle and abide by those rules. No special restrictions. I drive to shows, tours, and meetings all the time.

I have a declared value ($18,000) full coverage policy with $100 deductible on comprehensive, and $250 deductible on collision. To date the cost is less than $160 per year.

As indicated elseware the proof will be in the pudding if I crash it, but to date am prefectly happy.

Happy Motoring,
Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: Carter carb
« on: December 07, 2013, 03:30:28 AM »
Thanks Aussie, this is a great site.

After a few more tries got all three to come up fine.

Always good to know of good resources like this. Hadn't heard of Mike's before.

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: Carter carb
« on: November 24, 2013, 08:24:31 PM »

Which accelerator pump do you have, the long or short?

Maybe I could get the seal for you and just send it as a letter if that would be cheaper.

Checked on the computer, and it looks like a letter would be like $2.50 US.

Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: Carter carb
« on: November 24, 2013, 08:12:29 AM »

Carburetor Exchange, 1636 North 43rd Ave, Phoenix, AZ 85009, USA, phone has kits and when I got mine for a DRT08 they were not at all unreasonable.

Another you might try is The Carburetor Shop, LLC., 204 East 15th Street, Eldon, Missouri, USA phone 573-392-7378, or

Or maybe Bob Clark in Virginia, USA Email at or He rebuilds them and sells on eBay.

If these don't work for you I have a list of 3 or 4 more to try.

If you are going to change to a more modern carb I would like a chance to get you DRT-08, as I would like a spare.

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: Tire Pressure?
« on: November 22, 2013, 06:07:59 AM »
Checked the Instruction Book for the "Q", Third edition October 1928, and the first and second editions for the "30U" and all three say 40 PSI in the front, and 35 PSI in the rear. but that was based on the tires made at the time. I would tend to go with the pressures sited by Frank. I have been running my Firestone 19X4.5/5.00 at 32 PSI and they seem to ride and wear just fine.

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

As noted by "Old Man" the handles and escutcheons shown in the pics from "Highway 99" are the correct ones for the 28-30 Plymouth. There are three examples of original 28's here locally and they all have that design.  NOTE: the escutcheons have the two rings around the outside base.

There is a company "Verdone's" that reproduces them in stainless. I haven't bought any yet as I have a complete set (after 4 years of looking) that I am thinking of having replated (nickel).

If you want you can try - Marge Verdone, 31 Stricklerstown Loop Rd., Newmanstown, PA 17073, Phone 717-949-3341 eMail

The last price I got from her in 2010 was $432.00 for a complete set of 5 for my coupe.

Happy Motoring, Gary R.

General Discussion / Re: Another dumb question
« on: October 10, 2013, 07:06:16 PM »
Chet, Thanks for the nice comments about our web site.

I couldn't sleep last night thinking about your wheel problem. I have come to the conclusion that it is probably the spokes. If they were just 1/8" wide face to face then the drum would be set in that far. It could be 1/8" on the front or back face or as little as 1/16" on each, but the result would be the same. I measured some old spokes I have off of two different cars and one set measures 1.256 ( presumably 1.25) and the other measures 1.267 just over the 1 and one quarter inches.

I didn't take a wheel off to see how far the hub extended past the drum. If you want I could do that relatively easy.

Hope this helps.

Happy Motoring, Gary

General Discussion / Re: Another dumb question
« on: October 10, 2013, 07:49:11 AM »
I am doing a research paper on Plymouth Hub Caps like the one I did on Headlight Lenses.

What I find is that there is listed a Hub Grease Cap for Q, U, and 30U Wire wheels but not for Disc or Wood Wheels. That part number for 28 Q's is #20853, and for 29 U's and up to the 32 PB it is #301751.

I believe, (as previously stated) that the screw on cap for the Disc and Wood Wheels was intended to function as the grease cap.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Happy Motoring, Gary

P.S. If you are interested in the paper on Headlight Lenses check it out at
This is our Cascade Region website.

General Discussion / Re: New Wood Wheel problem - ?
« on: October 10, 2013, 07:35:27 AM »
Chet, an interesting problem. I am assuming that we are talking about WOOD Wheels. In looking at the parts manual I wonder if we are looking in the correct area.

Could there be a difference in the spacing of the brake drum on 20" and 19" wheels based on having different hubs? In my Parts List there doesn't even appear to be a listing for US. Built Q's. There are all kinds of different hubs listed based on U.S. and Canadian built Q's, U's and 30U's. I wonder if there is in fact a different clearance in the different mountings.

I have 3 sets of hubs for my 30U with 19" wheels and haven't had a problem yet.

The other thing that you might concider if you can't solved the problem is to have the inside face of the spokes relieved by about 1/8" to allow the brake drum to set farther out. Maybe spokes were not done correctly in the first place.

Just my thoughts.

Happy Motoring,

General Discussion / Re: Carburetor Adjustment Question
« on: July 19, 2013, 04:19:04 AM »
Sorry, but what carb are we refering to. Is this a Carter RT-08, DRT-08 or something else, It will make a big difference.

Happy Motoring, Gary

General Discussion / Re: New Guy
« on: July 19, 2013, 04:07:06 AM »
Hi, Glad to see you and your 28.

I have some of the washers if you need a few.

Let me know at as I am not on this site every day.

Happy Motoring,


General Discussion / Re: I need some advise...
« on: March 10, 2013, 07:00:06 AM »
Doug, I'm like you just a little late with my thoughts.

Kim, Sorry I didn't get to this sooner.

An easy way to pull the engine, if your going to pull the transmission, is to also pull the flywheel and bell housing. This way there is nothing to  worry about with the steering column and Clum switch.

By the way it is easy to remove the Clum switch by just loosening the nut on the bottom,  which holds it onto the headlight switch shaft, and then loosen the side bolt on the trottle control arm, and the whole thing simple slides off the bottom of the shaft.

Just my thoughts.

Gary R., Happy

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