Great to hear you got the old gal running!

My '28 does the same things you have described, but less evident. I'll keep driving her till things get worse and perhaps do a top end. Time will tell.

I'm not a big fan of additives but in some cases Sea Foam and Mystery Oil help with sticky valves and rings.
A little off the subject but, Sea Foam really helps with cleaning the injectors on my old Chevy van. (342,000 mi and going strong!)

You are on the right track now. Just keep fiddlin' a little at a time.

Please keep us posted.

Is this site great, or what!

SteveG

"Throw out bearing. This by far was the worst thing I have had to dig into on this car. It was a struggle to get the trans split from the bell housing. Then the rest hung up. Real bad."

Dave,

I had the same problems with the pot metal bearing retainer. The problem being is that the it was made of soft metal and they didn't hold up.
I think Chrysler made them out of steel, perhaps starting in '29.

I searched for weeks on the net and finally gave up. Then I stopped by an old tranny shop and told my tale, The mechanic was aware of the problem and pulled out an old box of used retainers and I started trying to match one up.

I found one that was steel and matched up, except that it had a three hole flange instead of four.
A friend and I very carefully re-drilled and threaded the mounting holes gave it a coat of moly grease and it worked!

Unfortunately, I have no idea what make or model the old part came off of. I suspect it is a old Ford part. There is a better replacement out there somewhere. Sorry I couldn't be more help, but I'll keep my eyes open for you.

Perhaps someone else on the forum can shed more light.

SteveG

 

Chet, I am in the same boat. I'll just fiddle with it and drive it like it is.
It is as much fun, if not more, as any car as owned.
Thanx for all your help.
SteveG

Thanx for the info. Very helpful.

When I do this job, it is good to good to hear neoprene seals are available.

Also interesting to note that your oil pressure is similar to mine.

My car is losing oil, about a quart per 150 miles. I'm assuming it is burning oil because of wear. Strangely it does not smoke and runs strong.

I'm not going to worry abut it, just curious.

Does yours lose or burn oil?

Thanx for your comments.

SteveG

Thank you for your reply.

Your last sentence ("Most all these old cars leak.") really got my attention. I think I'll hold off. It doesn't leak all that much to tear in to it.

I am losing oil somewhere and it just might be burning it, but it is not smoking at all. Does an oil burning car always smoke?

One other thing. If I let it go down more then a quart the oil pressure starts going down. I run about 30lbs at start up and then a steady 20- 22 lbs.

What do you think about all this?

Thank you,
SteveG   

Oil is dripping from the drain hole at the bottom of the bell housing. It leaks about a Quart every 100/150 miles.

I tightened down the pressure adjustment at last oil change. Perhaps too much. I run a steady 20 lbs. oil pressure.

I think the rear mail seal needs new.

I was told that I might be able to change it out by dropping the pan. He referred to the seal as a "dog turd", and I may be to change it that way.

Am I headed in the right direction?

Any comments and further information is appreciated.

Thanx.

SteveG

Perfect!

Thanks for all the great advise.

The wiring all works like it should.

SteveG

Thank you.

Tried to find the heat ranges of the 3036 and 3076. and only determined the 3076 has 3 A-25 heat range reach of 5/8".

I installed the 3036 plugs and will read them after around 100 miles. then compare their respective performance.

Will let you know the results.

SteveG

At least two of the AC C77L plugs in my'28 are shot and not made anymore.

I have a set of AutoLite 3036. They fit, but the reach is about 1/8" shorter.

Is anyone using these plugs?

What plugs are you using?

Thanx

SteveG

I wired the lights up and they work.

Your directions were perfect.

It appears the Clum switch is a little different then your '29.  My '28 has only 5 terminals .There is no horn terminal and is wired directly up the steering column to the button. The '28 has a Maxwell engine and Chrysler probably changed it for '29. Just guessing.

I was unable to hook up the tail and brake light because the "push" on terminal on the master cylinder is missing.

The good news is that the car is running great and the head lights work.

Thank you and all the guys who took the time & patience to help me out. GREAT SITE!

SteveG 

Thank you!

It doesn't look confusing at all.

I get back with the results.

SteveG

Quote from: frankp on April 09, 2014, 08:08:54 PM
Great news!   Now, about those brakes......   frank

Frank - Luckily the previous owner had the brake system rebuilt.

I am now going to hook up the head lights. I hope the rotary switch at the bottom of the steering column still works. I'm not sure which terminals the three head light wires go to (hint, hint?)

Sorry or pushing the envelope.

SteveG

 

Quote from: frankp on April 08, 2014, 04:01:17 PM
SteveG,

A wire is connected from the other (2nd) terminal of the ammeter to one side of the relay.  The wire from the generator is connected to the other relay terminal.  When the generator is charging, it will register on the ammeter moving the needle to the right.

Note the fuse is not in this circuit.  The fuse protects all of the lamps and the horn.

You'll be running in no time.

frank

Eureka!

Wired up as suggested and the old gal sprung to life!

I'll put back the dash and be on the road this afternoon.

Thank you all for the help.

A special thank you to Frank and Old Man.

Another adventure with 'Ole Amelia.

SteveG

Gotcha!

I'll do it this afternoon. As soon as I buy some more 20Amp. fuses.

I think we are almost there.

To where do I connect the generator relay?

SteveG

Holy cow!

There are two terminals on the coil. DUH!

So maybe power goes to the terminal on the back. And from the front terminal to the condenser?

Still confused, but I think we're getting someplace.

SteveG