Carman,

I'll take a WAG, what happens when the choke is applied in this situation?  This might  confirm the lack of gas.  Is your timing correct?  What happens if you pull the spark control out?

Now straight from the Instruction Book under Loss of Power

Too rich mixture
Valves not seating
Less than normal tappet clearance
Ignition improperly timed
Lack of oil or water
Lack of fuel, due to obstruction in fuel pipe or carburetor
Screen filled with dirt
Dragging brakes
Engine overheating
Loss of compression

I always check the easy things first and wind up taking the carb apart to clean when mine hesitates.  Thankfully, running like a top this year.

Good luck to you,
frank

Sure does - very nice, John!!

Hi corndog,

That is kind of you to offer.  I'm sure there will be several folks who will be dusting their want list.  I'm going to look for mine since many 28 & 29 parts are the same.

frank

For both the Q and U    74632

Understand a good shell is expensive, when found.

Mine was too corroded to tell.  I'm guessing it was nickle plated.  Don't recall seeing any black on Dave's.  Maybe he can confirm.    frank

First, mine is a 29U, but believe quite similar to 30-U on the back end.  Removed the engine with bell housing attached, minus the transmission and master cylinder.

Good luck with your rebuild.
frank

There is no cross member in my sedan.  It had no original floor board.  The toe board was intact and appeared to be original.

Please feel free to ask questions.  I believe that's the reason Chet established this in the first place - share knowledge and assist where we can.

frank

Wish I had the answer, but my car never had the body removed.  Unfortunate you had no remains left when you took yours off to use as guide.

frank

Wasn't familiar with remanence, but am now, thank you.  Hysteresis was the word that came to mind for me.

http://www.britannica.com/science/hysteresis

.... and to you and yours Chet and everyone.    frank

Jeffrey,

I can't tell if B pillar mortised or not.  Here is my rusty floor section of the bracket that runs top to bottom of the B pillar.  Sounds like you are able to work on your car in the winter.  Lucky you.

frank

First off, I don't know what products are available to repair this, but I would get fixed sooner rather than later.  Logic is the heat/cool cycles will increase the crack.  I also wouldn't expect any operating issues, as this is the exhaust manifold. 

Just like being in the passenger seat.  Thanks for the ride.

Ted,  Nothing comes to mind beyond what you suggested.  Did your old oil look thin/diluted when you changed it?  Des gave a good explanation of how system works.   frank

Too bad your generator fried.  Were you able to identify the cause?  Glad that you are in good shape now.

The relay, from the outside, looks stock.  Under the cover is the diode with the winding and points completely removed.  The current value is still set by the position of the third brush.  I was not told of any modifications within the generator.  I understood there were none.