Would someone please post a picture of the "levers?"

Thanks,
frank

As John said, later assembled 29U had 19" wheels.  These are on my car.

Thanks for passing this on.  Note the bumpers on the 29s are actually ribbed for the 28.  Difficult to see hubcaps, but some look like 28 instead of the "mushroom" style for 29.  Also look at location of some door handles on the flat skin instead of the raised moulding.  Not all drawings can be taken as gospel.

I know these are listed Chev, but may be able to help; or not.

https://fillingstation.com/catalog/flippingbook/index.html#300/z

frank

At least one source for a wiring harness plus other goodies

http://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/

I may take Dave up on that race this summer, IF my needed repairs get done.  (think a replacement gearshift assembly.  Mine has a lot of play compared to Dave's)  Better find a little used roads for these screamers!

All this talk has me wanting to get to work, but couldn't do much anyway.  Rehab is going well, but it takes time to get the bones healed, so say the Drs.

frank

Here's the waxy cardboard.  Thanks for reminding me of the picture.  Anyone find it in a drawing or the parts list?

The braid color I reference are in the Sixth Edition August 1929 Instruction Book.
BTW, I believe my CLUM is #1108 and I'm certain there are more numbers/configurations made.   frank

Chet,    The numbers I gave are stamped on the side of the switch and, obviously, are not in numerical order.   There are probably several ways to connect the wires to give satisfactory results.  Though the brake lamp switch must be continuously powered.   frank

Hi Chet,

Here's my info for the wiring.

http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?topic=862.msg5321#msg5321

frank

I'll be of little help.  My 29 is not readily available to look at.

1.  no car or pics to look at
2.  someone has this info
3.  There may be, but I don't know it.  I believe the yoke should not float on the shaft.  Maybe a different size washer will allow slot/hole to align when tight.
4.  don't know - no shocks on mine

No need to wait till completion for photos.  In progress are great, too!
frank

Ted,

Try a thin, flat blade screwdriver to pry off the cap.  Seems to me, if you have discovered a position where these gears "lock," it should be corrected.  Obviously, just opinion.

My reasoning why this is not a camshaft gear issue:  If the crankshaft and camshaft gears are not in their correct alignment, both valves for a given piston will not be closed when the piston reaches TDC.  I know these engines are very forgiving, but my opinion is, even if it were to start,  it would run rough and have no power.  Perhaps like running with spark advanced continuously.  Further, if after out of time, it may be corrected by re-positioning the distributor, then this assembly is suspect.  (The neck bone is connected to the thigh bone, but not directly.)  Shooting holes in my reasoning is entirely acceptable.

frank

Ted,

Chet has given excellent insight, as usual.  If you haven't already, taking off the end cap may help you see how these gears mesh with the shafts in different positions.  Also, the shaft in the bracket might have to be removed to determine exactly what the situation is.  Is there internal wear that needs shimming, for instance?

frank

John,

Maybe someone will have pictures of these slots.  I would advise using the rivets as a last resort since it wouldn't be stock.  Maybe you could cut slots with a Dremel.

frank

Ted,

There is no play at all.  This may be due to the casting being "swollen" and the shaft does not turn freely.  It will turn with pliers.

frank

Ted,

I did.  I think the play in the bracket shaft is excessive.  Coupled with maximum upward movement of distributor may allow momentary disengagement of gears thus changing the timing.  I don't have any tolerances for either shaft play.

frank