Rear view of my "spare," for what it's worth.  Interesting add on zerk makes you think this has been taken apart previously.

In '98 Steele Rubber had a good part for the windshield sides.  They sell a set of sides and bottom P/N 70-0016-52, which I think is what I bought, but sides only.  Unfortunately, can't locate the invoice.

frank

SteveG,

As I'm a bit addled from time to time, the pictures I was requesting was of the '29 4dr you were going to see.  I completely forgot the topic of thread.

Too bad about your camera.
frank

John,  I didn't glue mine.  Held in place by aluminum trim on running board perimeter.

Rich,  Sorry, I don't even know what was correct pattern for Q and 29U.  Try Bob Romano of the POC, he advertises he can supply 28-33 repro mouldings.  bobnramano@yahoo.com (from the Plymouth Bulletin)

Hey Steve G,

We all like pictures, if you can.

frank

Sometimes procrastination can be good!  Although that brings to mind "paralysis by analysis."  From the northern, non-heated garage point of view, spending much time wrenching cold parts is not my cup o' jo.  At least you have a climate conducive to working and not getting frostbite in the process.  If this sounds liking whining, so be it.  Mine is stored for the winter so I'm saved from any decisions to work on it, even though there are things I want/need to do.

Anyway, you'll get this figured out.

Ted,

As I'm a little on the slow side, I go with the folks who think it is external to the engine.  Since you are able to re-time after it goes out by re-aligning the distributor, that entire mechanism needs a thorough inspection, from the slot in the camshaft and the male mate on the bracket base shaft, to the gears.

frank

John,

My car appeared to be Marquette Blue, so the beads and mouldings were that color also according to info in an old Ply Bulletin.  The stripe was vermillion.  Other body colors had contrasting colors for B & M and the stripe.  Black fenders and body section above floor board.  I'll look to find a picture of my striping, which did pass at a judged meet.

frank

Thanks, Chet.  Get the rehab intro Tues afternoon. 3 more Dr appts through Fri.  No rest for the weary, but life is good.  frank

Ted,

wanted to post picture of distributor bracket earlier, but got side tracked.  You can  see the cracks in this one and the shaft to the camshaft does not rotate freely as it should.

frank

A belated Merry Christmas, Happy New year to all.  frank

(about a week ago they towed me in for a valve replacement and 3 by-pass while they were there.  doing nicely, but a bit slow and tired.  moral of this for me is do it now or you may not get to later.  No warning for me.  can't drive for at least a month, ouch.  can't shovel snow either, too bad)

Ted,

Before tearing into the engine, have you thoroughly inspected the pot metal distributor base?  If this is disintegrating, the shaft with the gear may be moving.  If you haven't had this off, I suggest you do for a thorough inspection.  I don't know where a replacement can be found.

Good luck,
frank

Ted,  wish you well with this.  I'd provide 2 cents, but am bankrupt with absolute knowledge of valve position at any given time.   Believe you're getting good advice.  frank

Chet,

The hand throttle and light control tube can be pushed/pulled as a unit towards the headliner after removing clum switch and loosening and removing the clamp on the hand throttle tube.  Be careful if any prying pressure is put on the Bakelite ring next to the steering wheel.  They can crack, break easily (been there.)  My tubes came out reluctantly.  The screws are from the the bottom ring into the top ring.  The rings are the bread, control lever plates the meat, for a poor analogy

Just a few notes to supplement Ian's excellent directions.  I'm guessing the Q is similar to the U.

frank

StevG,

Well Done!   Great that you are able to drive that often.

frank