I looked at their web catalog last week and they did not have it.  I missed the boat.  If I may ask, is it like a model decal or vinyl sticker and what did they charge?

Yes, a steady hand and a sharp knife!  It is 3M tape, Tomato Red.  Closest thing to a Vermillion (orange red) that was on the shelf.

Thanks, Chet.

On my to do list is to coat the inside of the vac tank.  I've seen a kit at an independent auto store for motorcycle tanks that should be ample.  It has a small leak that is mostly annoying than anything.  Then it will get a coat of black paint.  Using Dave's car as a guide, the wiring to the brake lamp switch will be re-done.  Oh how I enjoy soldering.  Still need to install the hand throttle clip and spring.  This weekend a neighbor observed I spend more working on it than driving, sad, but true in the recent past.  Good thing doing some of these things is a bit satisfying.

I'm having the brake can decal replicated.  Expect to have within next 2 weeks.  I'm hoping for the best.  The extras will be for sale, if they look good.

Finally have all tires mounted and the rear back on the ground.  Painted the transmission shift assembly and hand brake.  Re-worked battery box cover.  Want to clean front end a bit more before taking off the stands and going for a drive.  (Dave is making tremendous progress with his car)

Good for you Patrick!  Your investment will definitely be a plus, down the road.  As Chet said, the inter change info is invaluable.

My progress has been frustratingly slow.  Now at the point of trying to get the top coat on the rims, but will be gone for about a week, so will see how much progress is made today.

Talk about real fun - being there for Dave's start-up!  Reminded me of the time I was able to get mine started, many decades ago - what a thrill.

Thanks for the explanation and the chart showing the various weights with temperature conditions.  Very helpful.

I don't know how the refiners modify gasoline for summer and winter here, but I know they do.  In Minnesota in can be 100F/37.8C to -28F/-33C in the Twin Cities.  Without changes, we to would experience real problems in winter.

Finally have all the tires mounted on the rims.  I have always put in the air then let it all out and fill again.  Supposedly lessens likely hood of tube being pinched.  Is there a better method of inflation after installation?

Will be prepping and painting the rims and it will almost be time for a drive.

1st a price correction, $12 per quart.

Old Man, thanks for your comments.  I have never seen specific weights for diff or trans fluid or grease, except engine oil in Plymouth literature, but I would like to.  My Instruction Book is only specific as identifying such as "Fluid Gear Lubricant," Medium Cup Grease."  These terms are from The Lubrication Chart in the middle of the Instruction Book, Fifth Edition May 1929.  At the time, they were probably very well understood.  Interestingly, the Chart specifies SAE numbers for engine oil.

The Chart does say to dilute Rear Axel and Transmission with Kerosene for winter.  The 600w may be too viscous, even in summer.

I do not understand the "turbine effect."  Say rotating individual buckets of 30w, 90w, 600w at the same rpm, I would expect the lower numbers to be thrown to the side to a greater, measurable degree than the higher.  The idea behind using high viscosity 600w was that it would "cling" to the gears.

I will post those pics.

The label on the gear oil says it is equivalent to S.A.E. 250w.  A quart was $6 + tax at Little Dearborn, Ford only parts store in Minneapolis.  I want to see if I can tell a difference.

Happy Independence Day!

Interesting to read what others have been doing this summer and winter

Been working on the Ply a bit this summer and not much driving.  Currently on jack stands.

The front seat upholstery was completely worn through on the drivers side.  In taking it out, I've found that wood needs to be replaced/repaired.  Could not loosen one machine screw in the seat support to the B pillar and had to drill it out.  First time in my life the bit was exactly centered so buying a tap was not necessary.  The entire assembly is back in, but more wood work remains.

Purchased a new front mat and cut to size.  Will put in when seat is done.

The pot metal inlet on the carb broke and had to make a new line.  Chose brass this time with a copper back-up, just in case.  Also bought new springs for the carb and the hand throttle.  Plan on painting them black.  Shiny new metal looks out of place.

Purchased 5 new Firestones and tubes.  Replaces the 49 year-old Sears Allstate tires.  Two are mounted on the rims, but need some outside paint before install.  Remaining 3 are waiting on the interior paint to dry.  Interesting how much rusty the rims were.  Left rear was completely rusted while right front and spare barely had any.  They were all sandblasted at the same time and he primered for me.  Wonder if LR wasn't blasted?  Thankful to have stumbled across directions for using the rim tool a while back.

Transmission and differential oil needed changing and decided to follow the Model A boys and use 600W oil.  Had been using 85w-140.

With all the room to get underneath, there are plenty of places that could use cosmetic attention.  I remember how nice it looked after cleaning and with a fresh coat of paint.  Many miles ago.  Will see how long my enthusiasm lasts for this activity.

Safe trips everyone!
frank

Hi SteveG

I used a type of belting material used to run machines.  It may have come from a machine shop or possibly a farm implement store.  They had various widths.  Not much of a lead.  (Also used this same material to fabricate "U" joints.)

frank

Congratulations!!  Now for the hard part...    frank

http://www.dodgebrosclub-australasia.asn.au/docs/vacuum_timing_db4.pdf

Ted, realize this won't be of any use until you get your engine running, but...

Sorry I don't have further ideas for you to try.  frank

Hi John,

Sounds like you have a good solution.  I'm curious as to why you do not want use the "original" full time?  To me, inactivity is the worst enemy of even a well maintained car.

frank

Curious.  I've used Sta-Bil for years in 29, son's 67 Mustang, mower and 2 cycle snow thrower and did not see this problem.  Last year put Sea Foam in the 29 gas tank in the spring and Sta-Bil for the winter!??  Another life's mysteries?

Racertb - how are you doing?  Hope everything is ok.  Have to get that beautiful Roadster running.