As Willie Nelson would say - On the Road Again.  Hesitation gone, now to reduce the idle.  Suspect the accelerator pump is set too high for the throttle position.  Spring won't return throttle but foot will.  Checked freedom of movement several times before installation, but ....

Old Man, as far as www says, we in Minnesota are still at 10% alcohol by volume.  Green color reminds me of polishing brass with Brasso.

Dave told me about Gunk Carb Parts Cleaner in a gallon can and had to have one.  My carb hasn't been this naked since 2008.  Unfortunately, the Low speed jet tube wouldn't budge, but really put the air to after it soaked for the afternoon.  Plan to reassemble Sat and expect the best.  Thanks to Chet for providing the idea to layout the parts for a pic.  (having a digital cam now helps immensely)

Thanks Doug, makes sense.  Carter RT-08, probably a 130SA

2 steps backwards today.  After cleaning, accelerator pump cylinder now filling with gas; sucking in gas vs pushing air into pump jet.  Unable to remove all jets for this system.  Thought I found the problem when I freed the ball in the ball check assembly during cleaning.  Interesting note, all brass was covered in a green substance as if gas is leaching the copper from the brass.

Racertb,  My problem is small compared to yours.  Wish I had some pearls of wisdom to give.

Put about 40 miles on yesterday to confirm the carb needs to be removed.  I just hope that will do it for me.

Chet,  I've thought about doing that in the past, but I don't have a hose to get the fumes out of my storage area.  Maybe I should spring for one.  However, won't there still be gas in the bowl and all of the jets immersed?

Thanks Ian,  I did that yesterday, but not with a very high rpm.  Easy enough to remove cleaner, so will do again today.  If doesn't work, we're expecting rain tomorrow, so it will be good day to remove bowl and clean.

Cleaned the Accelerator pump adjusting screw and it is much better, but still has a noticeable hesitation.  Accelerate slowly and ok, push it, no.  Removed Air cleaner and sprayed a little carb cleaner - didn't notice difference.  May put Sea Foam in gas tank.

Chet, I think you're on the money.  May have to remove carb and blow out the jets with air.  Don't like taking apart because it's always a challenge to get used gaskets sealed.  New gasket set costs $50, maybe I'm too cheap to do this every year.  Might give a discount if order a gross.

When anyone has engine running issues I always suspect the carb first, based on my experience.  In all the 48 years, I've had 2 electrical problems, loose wire (operator error what's wrong with finger tight?) and a bad condenser.

Thanks, Chet.

That was my first impression, too.  Went for several mile drive.  Vac tank believed to be function correctly.  Will check all the bolts on carb and manifold this afternoon.

Manifold to engine and carb bolts all tight.

Hope you guys can bail me out.  Here are symptoms:

Starts fine, but engine will die when gas applied.  Letting up immediately on throttle and the engine will resume normal idle.  After engine is warm, the hesitation is lessened, but engine will still quit.  To me, this describes a vacuum leak that partially seals as the engine temperature increases. It is possible to feather the throttle to get to high rpm.  At this stage, it doesn't stall with increased throttle.

With my high frequency hearing loss, I can't really hear much, but my wife said it sounds like "chirping."  (been told a functioning vacuum tank makes this sound)  Wasn't not stalling last year.  Have not taken off the carburetor this year.

All ideas appreciated.  Thanks, frank

Excellent guidance Old Man.  Mine is set up with the grease port/screw cap towards the fan which places the condenser facing the fender for easy accessibility.

Removing distributor to correctly align is the way to do it.  If you removed the plug wires from the cap, it wouldn't hurt to double check they are in the correct order.

If the "fish paper" isn't available.  How about using a piece of plastic that seems to encapsulate everything?

Anyway, you have to be getting very close, if all the components and wiring are ok. 

It is 1 1/2  x  7/16 inches.  Not clear on material.  It is black, flexible to a point; maybe a thin fiber, but it has no fiber strands.  About the thickness of 4 sheets of cheap copier paper.

Good for you.  Just in time for the Easter parade!   frank

A I see it, you're right on track.

As Ian explained, #4 is approaching TDC on exhaust cycle and its pair, #1, is simultaneously approaching TDC on the compression cycle when the #1 plug will fire.

I read the exhaust stroke for #4.