Not too surprised screw is being a tough cookie.  Might try old standbys to loosen corrosion.  I wish I had a magic elixir to recommend.  Good thing Ian provided additional info.

My memory is hazy, but believe I took off the tappet cover plate to determine valve position.  Removing the spark plugs in 1 and 4, may show valve position also.  I'm sure some one as done more recently and will give better guidance.

Ian,  no need to be sorry.  I appreciate your knowledge on all things 28Q.  I can only discuss 29U as that is what I have and what the 1929 manual says. 

Glad to help.  A note on that insulation strip.  On my spare, it has slipped downward and is not between the spring and the body the way it should be.  As I think about it, seems the last time I put in points, care had to be taken to get this correct.  It tended to move as the fastening nut was tightened.  You'll get it figured out.

There are no timing marks visible.  There are marks on the camshaft and crankshaft gear to synchronize the pistons and valves, not the distributor.

#4 piston is nearest the firewall.  On the head there is a screw that allows access to the top of #4.  I put a coat hanger wire to determine TDC (top dead center).  The book says #4 should be going up on the exhaust stroke and stopped .050" before TDC.

Now the distributor is set to fire #1 plug.

My Sixth Edition Instruction Book gives more details on this set-up, page 40.  Pg 39 - 40 gives trouble shooting methods.

Ian,  You are correct about the paper or insulating material between the body and the spring.  I checked a spare and it is there.  frank

Champion D16 now called 516.

SteveG,  The tail lamp should be illuminated with the head lamps and parking.  The brake light circuit is separate and is dependent on the brake light switch.

Appreciate your progress updates.   frank

Additional info: as best as I can see, in the headlamp connection the Bakelite is numbered 1, 2, and 3.  I used 1 for brown, 2 for black, and 3 red.  The order doesn't matter as long as the wire colors are carried through to the correct lamp fixture within each Headlamp.

How my '29 is wired:  The CLUM switch terminals are numbered 1 - 3 - 2 - 4 - 6 - 5 from the engine to fender in the picture.

1 - Green 39 Battery (-),  Red 25 Brake Lamp Switch

3 - Brown 42 Parking Lamps

2 - Black 40 Horn,  Black 24 Horn Button through shaft

4 - Red 43 Head Lamp Low Beam

6 - Black 44 Head Lamp High Beam

5 - Black 11 Tail Lamp

The Light Control Lever set up:

6 o'clock position is off

5 o'clock Parking

7 o'clock Low Beam

8 o'clock High

I hope this isn't confusing.  frank

Great news!   Now, about those brakes......   frank

SteveG,

A wire is connected from the other (2nd) terminal of the ammeter to one side of the relay.  The wire from the generator is connected to the other relay terminal.  When the generator is charging, it will register on the ammeter moving the needle to the right.

Note the fuse is not in this circuit.  The fuse protects all of the lamps and the horn.

You'll be running in no time.

frank

By Jove, I think you've got it!! 

Yes, I would wire the coil terminal inside/under dash to the key/ignition and the terminal in the engine compartment to your insulated distributor terminal.  That will put everything in series.

frank

Oneshot,  What year Plymouth are you parting?  Any pictures, a location and contact info would be helpful.   Year and body style might help folks id a frame for you.  frank

Glad you got home safely.  With my car, I'd start with the carb.  Getting enough fuel at the correct rate?  Choke stuck?  Major vacuum leak?  Just some unsolicited thoughts.

Good luck,   frank

Here are some ideas on cable lubrication from an AACA thread.  frank

http://forums.aaca.org/f120/speedometer-noise-367811.html