The Framing Issue:

With the front suspension completed and all 4 wheels supporting the car again I continued on the framing project.  First I stripped out the old floor to get an idea of the daunting task ahead of me.  I am very disappointed by the lack of original wood.  I was hoping that something of the sill assembly was left but to my disappointment none to be found.



Using the three frame mounting points on each side of the car (6 all together) I was able to determine my understanding of what the sill plate might have looked like.  The picture below is a rough idea and the following are my determinations.  If anyone has information other then this, please let me know.

1)  Sill plate thickness 1 3/4".  Length, width, and exact shape to be determined.
2)  Sill will be a single piece structure from front to back.
3)  Rear section support brace is secured with Lap Joints and through bolted to the frame. 
4)  The rear body section sits on 4 defined frame points which will square the back section and everything from that point forward will be measured from the back section as the reference.

The Plymouth frame construction appears to be simpler in nature then the Fisher Body which relies more on mortise joints.  the Plymouth frame utilizes metal braces at high stress connection points.  Also mortis joints are used in many places.

Quote from: 29UJohn on January 17, 2017, 07:55:41 PM
I can take some measurements when I get home (traveling now for work), but since my frame is slightly bent, not sure my measurements would be useful.

John,

I think slightly bent is Par for the course.  I am trying to get mine as square as possible before I work on the wood framing.   It seems to me as the wood framing weakens the steel frame twists a bit.  Also as the leafs rust together the frame takes more unbalanced movement across the four support springs.  Just my theory.

Good luck with the business trip, Chet...

I need some dimensions from a 29U 4 door owner. 

My car is back on the ground after the front end work.  The car is now sitting square left to right which I feel was a major accomplishment for my old car.  However I think the car sits to high in the back and I would like to compare some average measurements from another 29U 4Door sitting on a reasonable level road surface or garage floor.

First:  The height of the Front Bumper assembly Bolt (center of Bolt to Ground)



Second:  The height of the Rear Bumper assembly Bolt (center of Bolt to Ground)
Third:     The distance between the rear shackle pins from center to center.



Many Thanks,  Chet...

Dear All,

I am very interested in purchasing a complete set of interior hardware for my 4 door 29U.
Qty - 4 - Window cranks
Qty - 4 - Interior Door handles
Qty - 2 - T handles

I hope that once a proper vender is determined we might be able to negotiate a suitable price for the volume of our combined order which will benefit all in need. 

Please advise, Chet...

Frank, your car looks great !!!

When I get around to starting on my frame rebuilding and body alignment project I might have to call on you for some quick dimensional checks.

Cheers, Chet...

Thanks Ted,

I believe this positioning to be correct.  I believe your first picture below also supports this.

Have to keep on Trucking,

Today I installed the brake support plates, brake cylinders, and pads.  As usual everything should be straight forward but I did run across a question.  My driver's side Dust Shield (Item 10 in the drawing) was on the outside of the brake support plate and the passenger side Dust Shield was positioned on the inner side of the brake support plate.  Just so we are on the same page see the diagram below.  (Item 10)



I assume that this dust shield allows grease and grime from the rear bearing to be collected and expelled out the back of the brake support plate.  The picture from the Plymouth Instruction Booklet for 1929 shows the Dust Shield behind the Brake Support Plate.  This is the way I installed these on both wheels.   See photo below:



If I misunderstood this please let me know.

Chet...

Quote from: Crazydave on January 09, 2017, 02:01:05 PM
Stole from Franks link........

Very Cool !!!  Now I have another thing to keep an eye out for.  Kari-Keen  I like the one in the ad with the spear tire behind the trunk.  It looks like the spear folds down like yours does ?  What a great old survivor. 

Chet...

Dave,

I really like the trunk on your car.  Was that original when you got the car or did you add it.  I didn't notice it in past posts.  Very Nice.!!

Chet...

A member asked that the Forum Default should show the most recent post on top.  This feature is settable in you personal profile settings:

Modify Profile/Look and Layout/ Check Box – Show most recent post at the top. 


I reset the forum Default for all users to show most recent post on top.  I believe you can still go in and change this if you prefer the opposite. 

Please let me know if there are any issues with this change.  Chet...

Quote from: Crazydave on January 07, 2017, 05:58:09 PM

Do you think just being full of crude made the valve stick? Dirty guide? Weak spring? Bent valve? What should be the top safe RPM for this thing? Makes me gun shy to go any distance at a higher speed.

What would be considered a healthy compression reading on these motors? [/i]

So the car is still currently topless, I plan on ordering a wiring harness shortly. Need to fix a radiator leak. Have some original parts I have been working, I'll get that original base installed and reluctantly change it back to vacuum canister. The reliability worries me, the electric pump I put on has been rock solid no issues. But this car will be primarily on a trailer. And originality is a duty, of the finder of a survivor.

Hay Dave,  enjoyed reading all your posts.  As far as the stuck valve, any and all the things you mentioned could be contributing factors.  Based on your adventure I think the stem was just gunked up and hadn't seen that level of speed in a great number of years.  These flatheads are not good engines for high RPMs.  The BHP is only rated as 34hp @ 2,800 rpms.  Hitting 45 mph with the GPS is close to your limit.  Add a down hill and you are doing 50mph.  Very scary in these old cars especially on wooden wheels.   

My car can cruise all day at 35 - 40 mph but the engine sounds best around 35 mph.  Probably 1500 - 2K rpms.

You can leave the electric pump in-line and use it to prime the car if your vacuum pump runs short.

I know how hard it is to work a full time job and try to do a car restoration.  I spent 10 years on my 48 and there are still plenty of things left to be finished.  Maybe get to them someday when I have nothing else to do.

Cheers,  Chet...

Ted, I think this car may cure me of any future ambitious tasks related to springs. 

Frank, your past experiences will continue to prove helpful as time goes on.  The steering wheel removal was exactly as you remembered.

I wanted to make more progress today but the weather will just not cooperate. I  picked up my parts from the machine shop on Friday an with the aid of two electric heaters and one propane heater I was able to warm my work shed enough to paint these parts.   Allowing them to sit out in the air after cleaning would just invite rust.   As it was, I had to lightly buff them prior to painting.



As far as today goes, since this morning we are experiencing whiteout conditions and between the cold winds and snow it's not enjoyable to be working out in the garage today.  Even with the heaters running.   

Quote from: 29UJohn on January 04, 2017, 09:11:02 PM
The T handle I have for my 29 is just like the one on the right.
If I cannot find any interior window handles, perhaps you would consider letting a reproducer borrow one from you to make a mold?

Count me in on any repro quantity.  I need correct hardware inside and out.   Chet...

Quote from: Articifer Tom on January 03, 2017, 05:27:22 PM
... Noticed your tie rod ends are the spring topped type is there part numbers on them , and are they original ?

All the steering components are my original parts which have been disassembled cleaned and reassembled.  Including the tie rod, the tie rod ends, and drag link.

Cheers,  Chet..

Happy New Year !!!

On this rainy January 3rd. I installed the new passenger side front leaf spring and reassembled the tie rod ends and installed and aligned the front spindles as well as I could without the drums and wheels.



I also dropped off the front brake mounting plates and the gravel guards from the engine compartment.., at my local Napa machine shop to be hot tank and clean before paint and reassembly.  I have new front brake pads ready for installation.



I am almost finished with the front suspension, I guess I will turn my attention to the rear axle once I am totally finished with the front. 
PS... this is coming out better than I expected.  I think the word is awesome.