Thanks Ian.  The copper gasket from the exhaust manifold to the block is not the issue (although I could replace if I replace the other).  Need to replace the gasket between the intake and exhaust manifolds.  This is where it blew out bad and shown in another thread.  The gap is huge, about 1/8" to 3/16" so will have to double or triple up as it was in the past before I first tried to fix.  I have another intake that I put in place and still the same gap, even when I tightened down.

While I have this apart and until I get some gaskets or gasket material, going to take apart the carb to clean and rebuild with the kit and float I have. 

Looking for where I can find an intake to exhaust gasket, or the proper material to make one.  The material I bought a few months ago did not last, made of paper and metal and for high temperatures.  Also, I had to make three of the same to fit.  Sometimes the ones they have on eBay are not like mine, as they have three holes (maybe for those with the heater?).  Mine is the one (probably like yours) that has two stud holes and the oblong hole (intake) in the middle.

I looked on Bernbaum's site and there was nothing, so I may call him and/or Tome Hannaford on Monday to ask.

Does anyone know if these were originally copper or what they were?

Thanks...

Ian - forgot to add, points are gapped to .020, but will re-check

Chet - understood, no problem...

Ian/Chet - I took up slack in the distributor drive and distributor with shims (another thread).  There was no horizontal/side to side play in the distributor, only a little veritical that I shimmed up.  The only play that I see now is what is in video #3 when I lift up on the timing lever.  It seems like a lot to me - maybe this is the problem under load.  A few others commented in this and another site that theirs was tighter than what the video shows.  The timing lever is screwed firmly down on to the housing and the screw that holds the distributor in place (once the distributor position is where you want it) is also tight.

Other than the questionable timing lever, the other obvious issue now is the intake leak.

Quick update:

Hi Ian - the firing order is correct, 1-3-4-2, and the leads are in the correct order.  The plugs are fairly new, as are the plug wires, which are solid core copper.  Unless there is an issue with one of the wires or plugs, I would suspect the distributor.  The cap, points and condenser are also new.  Unless one of these new components is the issue, maybe the distributor needs attention.

On the compression test, bought a new Craftsman kit last night and just did another dry test:

#1 = 57
#2 = 62
#3 = 59
#4 = 57

Each cylinder held these numbers steady for a good 30+ seconds before I disconnected the gauge.  This is good news to me.

I appreciate the help.  I'm a member as well and might be able to inquire about a list if yours isn't readily available.

On another note, I bought a compression tester and did a dry test last night just to check each cylinder.  #1 showed 61, #2 showed 58 and #3 showed 60.  #4 showed nothing at all like there was a leak or problem with the gauge.  Obviously, I panicked at first but tried the other cylinders again and same thing with them, nothing.  I'm going to see if a schrader valve on the gauge is leaking or try another gauge.  I am hoping to get a good reading on #4 to be consistent with the others.

Old Man - I am in Orange Park, Florida just outside of Jacksonville.

Ski - the engine overall has great compression, but I have not checked each cylinder individually at this point

Doug - what you a said makes sense, not sure why I thought it could be oil

Thanks Doug.  The screw with the spring that attaches the timing lever to the housing is there and fairly tight, if that's what you're referring to.  Still seems like too much wobble to me.  I can check it again.

Any thoughts on the other video clips?

All:

As you may know from my previous posts, I've been fighting a timing/running issue for year now.  Most recently I've made some slight adjustments to the distributor drive and distributor by removing what appeared to be excess slack/play.  I did put a new gear on the distributor as well.  Although that may have helped some, I'm certainly not out of the woods yet.

Yesterday I got the car running again (I took a break from it a while and also had to get a new battery) and kept in running for a good 20+ minutes before I turned it off.  A minor victory.  Before this, I could only get her started and keep her running for a minute or two before she'd slow down and die on me...all this while sitting in the garage.  So, not sure if I fixed anything, other than take up the slack in the drives as I mentioned and a new gear.

I am posting three videos below and would like to get your feedback if you have 10 minutes to spare.  The first is approximately 8 minutes and shows the car running and it's narrarted by yours truly.  The second is of the tailpipe so you can hear how bad the miss is.  The third is of the distributor installed on the car (car not running) and the play/wobble shown.

I know I've got an exhaust/intake leak which needs to be fixed (for the second time) that you can see in the video.  Not sure if the carb also needs to be rebuilt to help matters, but I have a new float and kit to do so if needed, which I may need to anyway.

Please let me know what you think...thanks.

http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0035_zpsxbzuhsqf.mp4

http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0036_zps0qf6zsrh.mp4

http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0037_zpssktvqdvk.mp4

I have the Atlas tool and instructions...when I did my tires, etc. a few years ago, it was very important to follow the intructions carefully for the arm placement on the rims.

It sure has been quiet.  Good luck selling the house!

Just disassembled my spare '28 distributor for "practice" and it was very easy.  Except for the reversed gear and grease cup, I believe it's identical to the '29 distributor.  I may pull apart the '29 to inspect, but I might try it first with the new gear and shims.  The vertical play/clearance is .015 now, which is much better than before but not too tight.  If this doesn't work, maybe then I'll pull the distributor apart.  Not sure what else to do after this!

Frank, haven't disassembled the distributor, but I'm willing to try anything at this point.  If there are any tips or tricks from anyone, I'd like to know.  I'm convinced that I'm close to the problem and that this can't be an internal issue.  I say this because I can time and start the car every time.

Ted

Latest update.  Took a break from the car for a couple weeks, but got her timed and running today (on vacation this week).   Well, she ran for a few minutes until I put a small load on her.  Basically just reved her up a few times and she slipped out of time and shut down as she did in the past.  The rotor was in the wrong position. 

The only thing I did different was to take up the slack in the distributor drive; I did not do anything to the distributor yet. I did this on purpose to see if the drive would fix the problem.  So now, I've removed the distributor and i am going to replace the gear with a new gear I have, as well as shim it up a little to take up some of the vertical slack that I've mentioned before.  I hope this will fix things, otherwise I'll be at a loss and will be out of ideas.