It is funny the different feedback you get from people. Some enjoy the story, some want to tell you a story. At one point I think Frank and I at the same time had 2 different people telling us individually how they like our car for how he finished it, or how cool mine was raw. 

Didn't spend a ton of time sitting by mine, (was out both Friday and Saturday) but managed to hear about a half dozen "Don't ever paint that car!"

Met Frank for breakfast Saturday morning, we were doing our part to represent early Plymouth's in the car show portion of the Nowthen Threshing Show. Few laughs, few beers, some smart talk, fun day over all.

(I know someone will ask, the blue car in the far left of one of the pictures is a 28 Pontiac)

Close up of my original

I never did price it. I forgot all about at the time, my focus was getting the axle bearings replaced and dealing with the busted pinion gear retainer.

Whats pricey? I guess I have no idea how to assign a cost to an odd ball bearing. I don't remember what the axle bearing setups cost.

If you have the serial number handy call cuttersales and see what they say.

I had every intention to replace the bearing at the time, but spaced it. It has been back in service with no issues. I think I pulled mine a part with simple hand tools, so I wouldn't say it was pressed on, bit of a friction fit. If you look at the pictures below, I actually reassembled it with the bearing zerk clocked in correctly. (7 O'clock instead of 1 O'clock) But find it easier to grease from below, then taking everything apart from above. See pictures, let me know if that answers questions. I will actually be doing a little work on mine the next couple days. She has a show and a short trip coming up next week.

Could also try these guys. If it exists they can find it. I used them to get replacement axle bearings and a replacement for the front hub. they also have replacement seals of all kinds. 

https://www.cutter-sales.com/

Frank,

How is the show? Are you thumbing your way back home?

Have a good trip, give us a few updates.

Should be an adventure (hopefully in a good way) driving an 89 year old car 3 states to the east.....

Hay Dave, 

I found a local welder/machine shop who was recommended by the Napa shop.
He didn't think brazing was the way to go he is going to silver solder it from the inside. Anyway he understands the need to "do no harm". He has antique tractors and one with a thermal syphon flat head.

Fingers crossed.

Sorry I messed up your post. I thought I was quoting it but things are much to small on a cellphone

Fat fingered it '. Chet

For reference mine was in similar shape, original everything. I paid around 3,000.00 US, In MN. ( I had rims)

What do you have into it? If I may ask?

It took me several attempts to find a guy who would even look at my old original radiator. But they all said the same thing about tanking, (an old original anyway) if you do that its destroyed. The old solder will dissolve/let go.

I did find an old school radiator guy and mine has been holding water since the repair. Mine has only had water in it since I have had it, but I bought and plan on just putting in plain old cheap green. No conditioners. But I don't have anything fancy  or do long road trips.

Starting at #287 December 07 the issues are digital. Follow link scroll down.

http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/store.htm

So the optimum target is 17hg? I am curious to see how the car runs and sounds at the different vacuum levels. Maybe I'll tube a gauge in the cab while I tune.

Is Old Man still around? Haven't seen him on here for sometime. Run across is his old posts often while searching. Hope all is well.

Quote from: rwollman on May 01, 2018, 07:45:08 AM
ON oil pressure with vacuum canister vs electric pump I have found that oil pressure is increased quite a bit with the deletion of the vacuum line. 

I attribute this to fact that there is no oil aeration in pump caused by air.  lifter noise, don"t think this is plausible as lifters are not hydraulic.  Would sooner think there is a lifter to valve clearance problem once engine reaches operating temp.

Does anyone have a good way to set timing on these engines? I know it is set thru #3 cyl on exhaust stroke with a dial indicator at .050-.048 BTDC.  gtotta be a better way..  Just my 2 cents on project.     

Definite increase in oil pressure when the vacuum side is blocked. The noise might not be a lifters, but sounded valve train related to me. There is definitely an increase in engine noise, rattle / cladders (not what I perceive as a good sound) when I plugged the vacuum line on mine. Engine was at operating temperature and the noise / condition is repeatable related to the change in pressure. When I get it cleaned an lubed again I will try and see if my phone is good engine to capture the sound. (before the Lucas goes in)

I have set the timing multiple times in less than 10 minutes with no issues. My method - pull the timing screw out of the head above #4 cylinder. I grab a brazing rod drop it in the hole and crank the motor until the rod tops out TDC. Grab my air hose and blow compressed air into the cylinder and listen or feel (I open a starting cup) and see if it blows out the exhaust or into the intake. If its off 180 I crank it around to the next lap. Line the cap / rotor up making sure the timing cable has adjustment for advance and retard. ".050-.048 BTDC" I can't see how out 2 100's of an inch matters when by design you change the timing a fair amount from the cab via a cable. Unless I'm missing something.

Optimizing tuning with a vacuum gauge is something I will try to see how it works. What I have been doing is making small adjustments in multiple driving conditions until it feels good, no pops and has the most power. Adjusting the carb and timing.

Quote from: chetbrz on April 30, 2018, 04:10:10 PM

What are your plans for the restoration.  Mechanicals or aesthetics or both.

Cheers,  Chet...

Good Question, don't have a definitive answer. So far its been maintain the car as if it was my driver back in 1930. Fix what needs fixin' and run it. I want to keep it as original as possible. One benefit to this is cost and time. Its cheaper to throw a little money at it here and there, run it until the next issue pops up. Vs rebuilding, plating, painting etc. everything to new. (I'm sure you can speak to that) Problem with the nibble method is the seemingly perpetual assembly and disassembly. Fix one thing, then go at it again. Where if you tore it all the way down and addressed everything, it should be good to go. If I did that, it would be years before I would be driving the car again. I'm going to pull the oil pan, take a look around, clean it up and give her a bottle of Lucas oil treatment. Curious to see if it quiets up and smokes less. I'll also do a compression test again.

Does anyone have any insight on vacuum and how it relates to the oil pump? Here is what I mean. Got the car, vacuum canister was trashed. Vacuum line was hooked up. I removed the can and capped the vacuum line. Ran it that way the first year or 2, keep the dust out. Keep in mind I do not put many miles on, mostly shows or running on private land. I noticed the other year the relation to plugging this and oil pressure. Plugged the oil pressure goes way up, sucking air real low. Left uncapped the last (??) can't remember how long figured it was designed that way and it maybe better off. What I didn't notice before but did this weekend was if I put my thumb on it (plug) within 10 seconds the lifters cladder like they are starved for oil. Did this a few times with repeatable results. Made a video hoping it was audible but it was too windy out. I don't know how accurate my pressure gauge but moves. Wondering if plugging that is a bad thing, furthered some engine wear?  In my mind a bump oil pressure is usually not a bad thing.