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George29 - Did you get the Hub off yet.

Started by chetbrz, July 06, 2007, 05:21:17 PM

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chetbrz

Also,  Are you familiar with how the Wagner Lockheed brakes are adjusted. 

Are you using a tool or trying to do it by feel.??  If you are doing it by the touch & feel method..., try this link as a quick reference.

http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/p15pdf/brake.pdf

Plymouth used this type of system through to the 50's.  If the quick reference confuses you do it your way.  There are a lot of methods but basically the idea is to get shoes as close to the drum surface as possible.  Use the outside adjustment to finish up.

Originally I think the 1929 mechanic used a drum with holes cut in it so as to use a feeler gauge between the shoes and the drum surface.

Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

George29

Chet:
I used a chain and screw jack and cranked on it until the jack started to bend.
The jack was an old iron one not flimsy.
Not sure how I'm going to get the rear wheels off. If anyone has an idea please let me know. I will continue to work on it and come up with something.

George

chetbrz

#2
George,

The screw jack may not give you enough pressure and might be hard to handle.   I laced a chain so I had equal pressure on four spots.  12:00 o-clock, 3:00, 6:00, and 9:00.  Keep the chain as close to the drum as possible.  Have someone work a small bottle jack while you keep the chain and jack in position so as to apply equal pressure on all 4 points.

In the mean time this is what I believe is the proper puller.  I saw one once but couldn't seem to find anyone that has one.  I may have a machine shop make one up for me:

My feebel drawing



PS...  Only one of my rear wheels was hard to get off.  I believe it was the wheel that provides drive torque most of the time.

Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

George29

I have now tried all the suggestions that people gave plus a few of my own and still have not gotten the rear wheels off. I found a picture of the original hub puller and will try to find one if not I may have one made. I will be in Reno, NV for Hot August Nights (over 3000 cars both original and hotrod) and will go to the large swap meet they have, maybe I'll get lucky.
Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions.

George

chetbrz

Quote from: George29 on July 20, 2007, 03:19:34 PM
I found a picture of the original hub puller and will try to find one ...
George

If you could post the picture you found it would be very helpful.  I am not quite sure what an original puller look like.

Tks,  Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

George29

Chet:

Here is the wheel puller for the 29.

George

Satillite70

HI Guys,
    Does anyone know which size and thread is required?  I have seen 2-1/4" with 16 threads or 18 or 20 on the threads... which is the one?

For the next week I'll be working on the dings in the fenders on my 28, but I'd like to get the breaks working before I try to get her running and moving!

Chris "My wheels are stuck too" Osborne

chetbrz

Quote from: Satillite70 on April 18, 2008, 08:44:35 PM
HI Guys,
    Does anyone know which size and thread is required?  I have seen 2-1/4" with 16 threads or 18 or 20 on the threads... which is the one?

Chris "My wheels are stuck too" Osborne


Chris,

I will bring my thread gauge home with me on Sunday.  If no one else gets back to you I'll post the thread size on Sunday or Monday night.

PS... The one I found at Hershey had Ford embossed on it.  I have been told that they are the same as the Ford Model 'A'.  It also has a nut to tighten it to the hub once you screw it on.  I think this is a good idea in that you get a tighter fit against a worn thread.  You could give the axle slap method a try in the mean while. 

Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

chetbrz

Definitely without a doubt 16 threads per inch. 

The size is slightly bigger then 2 & 1/4" maybe 2 & 5/16" or 2 & 3/8".   I don't know where my dial calipers are or I could confirm the diameter for sure.  Maybe Doug on the POC board will confirm the exact size.

Sorry,  Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

Doug

I can't conferm it. The gentelman I got my 30 U from worked in a machene shop. When he got the car he need to pull the wheels of so he made this tool. When I got the car he gave me everthing he had with it. The tool works just like the original. If you have the hub caps you can take one to a machene shop and they can make it.

chetbrz

#10
Here is the scoop on the Q/U hub size:  Doug you were right on...

When measuring threads there are two dimensions to consider.  The Minor or female thread size and the Major or male Tap size.

If you measure the diameter of the wheel hub it will measure 2.375 +- 5% or 2 & 3/8" Major Dimension
If you measure the tool itself or the female thread size it should measure 2.312 +- 5% or 2 & 5/16" Minor Dimension

Since screw size is always refereed to by the Major Dimension then the correct size for the 28Q to 30U hub puller is  2 & 3/8" with 16 threads per inch.

So if an eBay seller is measuring the distance accross the threads on the hub puller in question (Minor Dimension) he should be measuring 2 & 5/16" x 16 TPI

Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

Satillite70

Thanks for the help fellows!

  Unfortunately I missed out on two pullers, but I'll keep looking, and if not have something made.  I am working on the driver's side running board, a few cracks and wrinkles to work out, then polishing the trim.  I bought a number of items on ebay for the brakes and tune-up bits, so we should have her running in a couple weeks.  I have a three day weekend so I'll have the fenders and running boards mostly finished by next week.  I am missing the front/outside edge trim on the drivers side running board, so I might have to resort to  piece of aluminum stair edging for now.  My running boards are ribbed steel with four attachment points.

  I saw a set of running boards on ebay on Sunday priced at over 2000 dollars, new old stock in the original packing box!  Wow, priced way out of my league!

    I'd have the running board and rear drivers fender painted by now but my best friend since age 5 lost his uncle on Monday morning and I've been taking time to keep him company.  But that's another story.

    I was up to Grand Bay [small town a few minutes from here] on the weekend and met with a fellow that has the only other 1928 Q in this area.  He said he has some spare wheels and a couple rads, but not sure if I can get him to part with any of it just yet.  He's supposed to drop by to see mine in the near future.

    I was struck by the differences in the cars, perhaps his is a US model, although it supposidly is a local car.  There are differences in the bumbers, reservoir for the master cylinder, dual taillights [these appear to be stock, unless the car is actually a later model??].  I'm hoping to be allowed to take photos of it next time and do a photo comparison of the two.

    Anyay it's late have to hit the hay soon.

Thanks again!

Chris

Satillite70


-Pulled by Frustration- ???
    After the frustration being outbid on many pullers on ebay I have decided that the best method is to have a new puller made.  That way there is no question of fit, or damage, rust etc.  I have dropped off one of my hub caps and photos and drawings of the hub to "Brewster's Machine Shop", a place recommended by a co-worker.  The hub puller is supposed to cost me about 100-150 bucks.  A fellow there used to have about a dozen old mopars, from a 1935 Plymouth up to a 1968 Dart Convertible.  He sold the last one, the Dart two years ago, went all the way out to the other coast, to British Columbia.  He'd like to have another old mopar, but is looking for something requiring little or no work as he is getting up there in age and says he's body doesn't always co-operate...  Anyway he said I should have a puller by the weekend, so we'll see what those brakes linings look like soon!

Chris

Satillite70


    Well the hub puller worksperfectly!  It cost $125 cash to have made, and is made of 1/4" wall pipe with a large nut turned down to fit partially into the top and welded, then a 1" bolt is inserted into that.  The best news is that the rear breaks are in good shape.  Looks like I will have to rebuild the wheel cylinders, which I was expecting anyway.  Attached is a photo of the drivers side rear wheel.  I will get a photo of the puller next time.

Chris