My 29 4 door measures 57+1/2 inches.

The seat belts are not required ( at least not inAlabama if they were not originally installed.). I put them in because my two youngest like me to take them for drives, so we drive it a lot.  With a wood body, seat belts may not matter if the car rolls over, but if someone hits me from behind, at least the passengers will not fly forward. I anchored the belts to the frame. For the front I had a machine shop make an additional frame cross member so I could anchor the center belts.  For the center rear I drilled to the frame and used a washer stack bEtween the frame and the wood cross member. The four (2 front and 2 back) are anchored to the frame via regular attachment points. I put in old style (196Os) new belts. 

Frankly, the seat belts mostly help keep the children in their seats.

I do not like to drive it on busy streets or the highway anymore. It will go 55 (given a little time) but I prefer 35-45. Saturday morning is a good time to drive around here (Huntsville, Alabam). I guess most sleep in, except for the fishermen and hunters.

I no longer drive at night either, if possible, and avoid rainy days too.

Regarding the three LED tail lights, I want to be sure I am seen. Lots of distracted drivers out there, texting and eating, etc.

Interesting. At this point, it seems the smooth are winning ( more prevalent.)

While I had the rear upholstery of my 29U Plymouth removed, I decided to install Third Brake Light for added safety.  I spliced the wires to the harness and ran the wires up the inside. The light bar attaches with suction cups.  If I want to hide it (t a show), I can tuck it behind the seat.  I also put LED lights in my tail lights ( a few years ago).  All are from a Ford Model A parts catalog.

Your detailed drawings will be a big help to the next guy to tackle this job!

My 29U was built in May of 29 and has two of each.  Maybe they were switching to the Octagon ones about that time. A mystery.

If I can get them remade, I will need confirmed orders of 16 in initially (4 sets). At this point I would go with the Octagon style.

Chet,
Thanks!
If there was only one style hubcap for 29U, I think it is the one with the octagon lands. Please see the attached PDF Spotlight Sketch of a 29U that shows the octagon hubcap.
The 28Q cap is smaller and much different, and the 30U caps had a different face.

The 29U caps are still a puzzle to me.  Where did my two round base caps come from?

All those with 29Us - what do your caps look like?
John

I am trying to get Vintage Restorations to make hubcaps for the 29 Plymouth with wood wheels.  I need to know if mine are correct.  My rear hubcaps have the octagon shape under the cap.  However, the front hubcaps do not, they are round.  Is this correct?

Mine measures approx 52+5/8 inches.

For thos of you trying to contact Brad Landoll of L&L Antique Auto Trim to purchase running board mouldings (trim), here is the latest information from him thanks to Skinned Knuckles mag:

"During the last few months I have been out of the shop a great deal.  I have some properties some distance away from where I reside and I hired a contractor to do extensive work on them so I could sell them.  Money was paid out and the work was not performed and with the work not being completed the buildings suffered extensive damage.  I have been trying to correct the issues with the buildings but that has required me to be away from the shop.  I believe I have this situation corrected and hopefully can get back to filling orders."

Brad

Chet,
Mortising in the sill covers into the floor so they are flush would seem to allow the sill plates to sit flat.  It seems like it would be better, and I have wondered about this.  But I do not think this was the case for my original floor boards, as I did not see any indication that they were mortised in.  But that was 43 years ago! 

Chet,
If you need information on the curve of the sill wood, i have a new set of sill plates. The outer edge of the sill plates approximates the outer edge and curve of the outer wood edges.  If that would help, I could trace the sill plate edges and send to you.
I rebuilt my car's woodwork in 1974 and the sill wood had to be replaced. the edges were not in good shape, but there was enough left to figure the approx shape, and along with the sill covers I was able to get the curve shape good enough using a manual drawknife. 
Your wood plan sounds real good.  All I could do at 16 was use two each 3/4 inch pine boards treated with coprotox and sealed with marine varnish.  It worked and is still in good shape.

Chet,
The center pillar bracket is mortised into the floorboards and the bolt goes through to the frame.
The front pillar support bracket is also mortised into the floorboards so it sits flush (makes the floormat lay flat.)

On my car there is about 3/8 inch spacing from the firewall to the fender.  However, I do not think that can be adjusted because both are bolted to the frame.  The bracket behind the front of the firewall has a bolt that goes through the frame. 

As for the space between the back and the gas tank bracket (frame), on my car it is approx 3/8 inch.  But, this height depends on the thickness of the rubber pads the body sits on.  For my car, I used two layers cut from and old conveyor belt, each about 5/16 thick, for a total of about 5/8 thick.  That was 40+ year ago.  I have no way of knowing if that is correct, it was they best I could do in 1974, and even then the original pads were 45 years old and I assume squashed somewhat.  I have know way of knowing what the original pad thickness was.

Vintage Reproductions send me an outside handle that is a perfect match and fit, except that the square shaft was a few thousandths too thick, but that was easily rectified by filing a little.

The cost was $150 in Australian dollars.  My total cost including shipping was $134.30. The part number is CHY-026.  They also have it in a locking handle for $350, part number CHY-027.

Vintage Reproductions is located in Australia.
Web site: http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com/
US Representatives for purchases: Tom and Cindy Meyers at:  myersedp@aol.com
Ph: 734-856-1207

They can also reproduce our hubcaps, but we would need a good set for them to use as a model and a commitment for orders for 16.

That has been a mystery to me.  All I know is the vague picture in the instruction handbook.