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Messages - 29UJohn

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166
General Discussion / wood spokes - does anyone make replacement parts?
« on: August 03, 2014, 06:35:21 PM »
Does anyone know of a person that makes replacement wood spokes?  I need to either replace a spoke or replace the entire wheel.  My 29 Plymouth has 20 inch artillery wheels.

167
General Discussion / Re: 1929 pulls to the left when braking
« on: July 07, 2014, 10:09:46 PM »
Old Man,
I think you are right.  10 years ago I had the drums turned and the shoes relined.  The brakes worked fine after that for many years.   The recent  problem started after I had the mater cylinder rebuilt and adjusted all the brake shoes.  I thought maybe I didn't do a good job adjusting the shoes.  I later pulled the right side wheels and checked and roughed up the shoes some.  I will have to do the left side next chance I get. 
John

168
General Discussion / Re: Alternative Carb for 28-29 Plymouth?
« on: July 07, 2014, 10:03:29 PM »
Frank,
I am now using one of my original type brass bowl carbs and the engine is running fine.  I have had problems in the past and was considering a better replacement carb for regular driving.  Right now it is running fine.  When I bought the car in '72 it did not have the original carb.  Over the years I obtained three brass bowl carbs, one is a 28 model and two are 30 models.  All of them have some problems, but the one I amusing now seems to be doing fine.
John

169
General Discussion / Re: Door Stop Straps
« on: July 07, 2014, 09:46:41 PM »
I also made mine with machine belting material years ago.  However, i would think a door check strap for a Model A would work fine.

170
That's great!

171
General Discussion / Re: '28 Rear Main Seal
« on: May 17, 2014, 08:19:32 AM »
A leaking rear main seal does not have anything to do with the oil pressure. 

I am not very familiar with the 28 engine.  The 29 uses a rope seal mounted in a bracket on the outside of the engine, but I have also seen a cork seal in one.  I have changed the rear main rope seal on my 29 without pulling the engine, but it was a bit more involved than just dropping the pan.  Supposedly you can remove the rear main cap, push out the top half seal, and using a tool called a Chinese Finger, insert the new top half seal.  Then replace the bottom half and replace the cap.  But, it really isn't so easy.  I had to remove the tranny and flywheel, loosen all the main caps, drop the crank a little, remove the rear main cap and then remove the upper seal bracket.  Not a fun job.

Most all these old cars leak.       


172
General Discussion / Re: Old Gal - Still won't start
« on: May 16, 2014, 09:06:26 PM »
Ted, I agree with Old Man.  When you said a while back that the engine, "made that grinding kind of noise every couple of revolutions", that concerns me.  With gas, air, compression and spark somewhat close, the engine should start even if very rough.  As previously recommended, I would remove the valve cover and plugs and have someone turn the engine through few revolutions with the hand crank while observing the valves.  Then I would check the fiber timing gear for any lost teeth.  I believe there is a  rectangular hole in the valve compartment that will allow you to see the fiber timing gear.  Have someone slowly turn the crank while you check the teeth.

To answer your timing question, yes, "..just dialing the distributor and setting it slightly more advanced than one might do." That would be counter-clockwise looking from above.

173
General Discussion / 1929 pulls to the left when braking
« on: May 15, 2014, 08:25:44 PM »
My 29 now pulls to the left when I brake.  I pulled both right side wheels and checked the shoes and drums and they were dry, no signs of leaking brake fluid or grease.  I adjusted the brake shoes after I replaced the wheels. 

Any suggestions on what to check?

A few hundred miles ago I did a full 5000 mile service by the manual.  I also had the brake master cylinder rebuilt, and bled the brakes several times until the pedal was good and tight.  After that all seemed quite well, the brakes were working better than they had in a long time.  But one day when I braked the car pulled to the left, and it has been doing that ever since. I now instinctively turn the wheel to the right when I brake so the car will stay straight ahead.   :-\

The instruction book states that the hydraulic brakes are "absolutely self-equalizing in its application." - which indeed they should be.   This leads me to wonder if the wheel alignment might be the problem.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

174
General Discussion / Re: Old Gal - Still won't start
« on: May 15, 2014, 08:13:43 PM »
I am sure some will disagree with me, but when you set the timing with a light by the instruction book, the spark will need to be advanced a little to run smoothly.  This is because the fuel in 1929 was only about 70 octane.  With even today's lowest octane, the spark will have to be advanced somewhat to run smoothly because the higher octane fuel "burns" slower.    Years ago when I first got my car I set the timing by the manual and it would barely run.  An "old timer" showed me how to set it "by ear" and got the engine ticking along smoothly. 

Otherwise, I would carefully follow the steps in the manual on pages 39-40 and review the corrective measures on pages 69-70.

175
General Discussion / Re: Engine Stalls
« on: May 15, 2014, 07:47:08 PM »
Frank, I am amazed that you were able to completely disassemble your brass bowl carb.  I have several and I have not been able to completely disassemble any of them.  Thanks for the picture.

176
General Discussion / Misc Things
« on: April 13, 2014, 06:38:06 PM »
I attached a Garmin GPS to the windshield to check out how accurate my speedometer is.  At 25-45 mph it was consistently one MPH off.  At 35 mph on the speedometer the GPS showed 36 mph. above 45 it was about 2 mph slow.  At 53 mph on the Speedometer it showed 55 mph on the GPS.  Don't like to take it any faster than that.  Usually drive about 40-45 mph on the county roads.

A few years back I was advised to add a modern oil pressure gauge as the old gauges my not be accurate anymore.  I added an oil gauge from the Autoparts store.  It lasted about three years and broke.  Put another one on it and it too lasted about three years and this past weekend it too broke.  I will stay with just the original, seems to be working good enough.

177
General Discussion / Re: Carriage bolts on ends of bumpers
« on: February 17, 2014, 02:58:33 PM »
Thanks guys!
Picked up a nut splitter at AutoZone.  Worked like a champ.  Thanks!
Got new nuts from BoltDepot.
Front Bumpers are now at Dan's Polishing and Chome in Adamsville, Tenn.

178
General Discussion / Carriage bolts on ends of bumpers
« on: February 15, 2014, 06:15:19 PM »
How are the carriage bolts on the ends of the bumpers kept from turning?  Are they just a friction fit?  Tried to remove them, got the nut off one but cannot get the bolt out.  The carriage bolt on the other end turns when I turn the nut. Do not want to damage them by gripping with channel locks, and do not want to cut them off.  After 42 years I would like to have the bumpers chromed, but do not want to damage anything getting  them apart.  Any experience with this or suggestions for removing? 

 

179
General Discussion / Re: Exhaust Manifold metal rings.
« on: January 17, 2014, 09:01:30 PM »
I bought a set from Then and Now automotive. They are basically alignment rings.  Not really necessary, but can help get everything lined up.

180
General Discussion / Re: What Spark Plugs Are You Using?
« on: November 07, 2013, 11:05:32 PM »
I am also using the AC C87.  I like using AC since the original plugs were AC.  The AC C87 is a hotter plug than the Champion D16 (which I used for years) and I think it reduces fouling and runs a little better.  Our cars came originally with AC G12 plugs, but the G14 plugs were also used for the same reason, they are a hotter plug that tends to reduce fouling. I have a set of original AC G14 plugs but have been waiting to use them.

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