Hi Chet ,
I am a mechanic mostly on 60's to 2000's cars, so just didnot feel right to me when adjusting the front hubs
(they were loose and I now know why they work them selves loose).
To say spongy is probably a fair description if you are referring to the wrench feel .
The bearings I generally do up tight, spin the hub (or wheel in this case) and back of a touch so as to just not feel any movement with fresh cold grease.
The bearings did not feel to tighten up as I expected, due to resting agains the radius not the shoulder of the stub..
See if you can make sense of my hieroglyphics/drawing attached.
I had the same issue with the rear axle and bearings .
it is possible to get the correct bearings you just need to talk to person who understands and can order in for you.
I hope this helps some people .
Des.

take 2

Hey Chet and All.
Just a point for caution re wheel bearings. this applies to front and rear axles.
When I got my "Q" I went over the Brakes and bearings and found quite a lot issues with the front and rear.
Staying on front hubs topic,
I was not happy with the feel when adjusting the front wheel bearings, after on and off again and a few adjustment attempts I removed the bearings from the hubs and stubs and eventually found the issue.
When cross referencing the original bearing numbers (or by sizes) to a modern bearing numbers all the usual dimensions match up.  However the radius on the hub stub-axle shaft to the hub stub-axle shoulder is a larger radius than the newer style bearing, therefor the bearing inner race cone side face, did not rest on the stub axle shoulder (it was binding on the radius). This was the case with all major brands.  I was able to find a retired bearing man through a vintage car club to explain the difference and get the correct bearings. Unfortunately I have no idea what the numbers were . I have attached a diagram and hope it works, and that you can understand what I am trying to say.
Regards Des
Canadian 28Q Australia

Hi Guys.
Hope you are all well in this global predicament .
Victoria, Australia will go into lockdown Tomorrow .
The link below I came accross today and thought others here may find interesting.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiuvrwKEGk4
Regards Des.

Hi Guys,
I to have had a few brake flare nuts replaced on my canadian built RHD Q.
The last cracked one I had to get a new line made due to proximity of a bend, the old and new lines were in my daily car when it was stolen, fortunately they were still in the trunk when car was recovered.
I was surprised by the cracked (brass ?) flare nuts but now see it is commonplace.
Regards Des

Hi again,
Here is a not to technical link on brake fluids.
http://www.restore-an-old-car.com/classic-car-brake-fluid.html
Des .

Hi Guys,
Dot 3 & 4 brake fluid are hygroscopic therefor absorb moisture from the atmosphere whether being used or not, and is the cause of cylinder failures and brakes requiring bleeding due to bad fluid. If you have cars under 6 year old  this will not be an issue for you, but for the next owner.
Industry standard is to suckout the reservoir and flush fluid every 2 years on modern cars which have good sealing reservoirs.
(our fire department service brake fluid yearly).
I use dot  5 silicone fluid ( as used by Harley Davidson ) in my Q and my trailers, it does not absorb much (if any) moisture (so does not require regular replacing) and does not eat/damage paint work if you make a drip. My understanding is that dot 5 can not be used with ABS cars or any assisted disc brakes.
Dot 3 or 4 in daily drive cars, mine are 80's & 90's cars.
My 2 cents worth,
Des .

Hi Guys,
Has anyone reconditioned or have, a dead easy air pump ? and the ability to identify the thread used for the air fittings ? And is the top fittings thread the same as the link pipe/tube thread?
I have just cleaned up an shabby looking pump , greased up the leathers and joints, cleaned up and painted the castings , polished the cylinders and cleaned up the check-valves & bolts, then rebuilt. On testing I find the balance pipe/tube cracked was (not desturbed) and is leaking .
I have taken the top castings to a local pipe hose & fitting (mostly hydraulics) shop, but they could not match.
If I can match (prefered) the thread great or I will just have to tap the castings M6 or 1/8npt or what ever can work for me.
Thanks in anticipation .
Regards Des.

Hi Guys,
Just 2 cents worth disguard if you wish ,
I would install ( and have on a couple of cars) a relay/s (with a new fused B+ wire from the generator/alternator or battery) to both filaments of the globe (if used) on the side of the car with the longer headlight wires.
Relay/s can be fitted/inserted any wher eafter each headlight has its own wires (maybe near radiator) .
The switch and harness were designed to have a ~6+A load when new , with the new lights (~8A) & relay upgrade this will drop switch and loom/wiring load to ~4+A and give better voltage to both headlamps . Should you ever encounter a hick-up with the relay and/or connections you still have one headlight, and the chance of switch or switch wiring failure is reduced.
Regards,
     Des.

Hi Guys,
Pantastic link, " Restoration Supply Company " catalog , Thankyou .
Maybe it could be added to " Sources for hard to find parts ". to make link easer to find in the future .
Regards Des.

Hi Chet.
I enjoy watching and reading the progress of yours and others resto's , issues , remedies and tips.
One thing which may or may not be an issue, is that the chassis is designed to and dose flex a little .
  " Sitting on the jack stands my driver side door doesn't want to close for a number of reasons ".
When on 4 wheels the weight is over the 8 spring mounts. When on the stands ( nearer the centre ) the chassis flexes and will be higher in the centre compaired to the ends than when supported by the springs . You may consider when it comes to final alignments to have car is on wheels.
Good luck & I look forward to following the progress .
Regards Des.

I expect that another design consideration of the exhaust manifold rings (ferrules) was to take the downward weight of the manifolds leaving the studs primarily for clamping. Still normal today for machine parts to be pined & heads and intake manifolds to have small ferrules for locating.
If possible I would use the rings , if a bit oversize in diameter you may be able to cut a bit out and close the ends together.

Just my few cents for consideration.
Des.

That is correct , sealers,puttys etc will not stick to the graphite. The graphite allows expantion movement (a little slip) with out tearing the gasket.
Cheers Des.

Hi Guys , If the washers are suposed to be concave/convex then they are called Belleville washers ( also sometimes called conical spring washers or disc spring washers ) and are spring steel, (obviously the high centre should be against the bolt head or nut) . Remember a 1mm high grade ( bolt store supplied) washer is better and does not deform as much as a 2mm cheap washer.
Cheers Des.

Hi , I was interested to here other replies but as there is none yet here is my positive reply.
Remember that an oil pump is a positive displacement pump, and the pressure is only achived due to the resistance to flow.
Basicly the oil pressure will increase with RPM to the set point of the relief valve.
As oil gets hot it thins and flows more easily through passages and bearings etc, resulting in lower pressure but increased flow.
( good oil flow is essential for cooling the bearings etc )
It will take 20+miles for the oil to get up to 200 degrees +,
You mention that at the trafic lights, the engine was about to stall when your low oil presure was the greatest concern,
maybe it was just due to low rpm and hot oil ?
Perhaps and hopfully next time you take the old gal out for your just a few miles drive all may be normal.
Regards Des.