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chetbrz:

--- Quote from: Articifer Tom on October 30, 2016, 03:57:32 PM ---Take a careful look at your shackles . I had a broken spring that wore the Tryon brand hangers egged on the end dropping driver side 3/16"  . Just reversing hangers holders and replacing spring corrected . Also DBC website has a list of all arch measurements of Dodge springs ,by physical sizes may match to other Mopars . If nothing else both sides should be the same .

--- End quote ---

OK Tom, thanks for the tip. I will be checking into all this over the next couple of days.  Hopefully be able to find some specs on 29 Plymouth suspension.  My car seems to lean forward so I think I have more issues with the front than the back.  If I am going to start in this area I will probably be addressing all the steering components also.   

Cheers,  Chet...

chetbrz:
Time to shift Gears:
I found a company that will remanufacture my front springs.  The Plymouth Part Number is 43606 which fits all cars before Y-097-CR.   It is a 9 leaf spring assembly.  The company is; Eaton Detroit Spring Co.  I decided to replace the front with new springs because the front sits low and also after 80 years of carrying the motor weight I figure it is time for a change.  I will probably disassemble and clean the rear springs but they seem to be up to the task.



Since I have the roof removed I need to remove the steering wheel so that I can repair it.  If any one has any words of wisdom they would be greatly appreciated.

westaus29:
Hi Chet, when I first started working on my 29U I used more enthusiasm than skill and rapidly learned that the steering column is soft steel and easily damaged, so had to go find another one. My steering wheel boss is aluminium which binds to the shaft. Heat and penetrating oil could help but is difficult to apply and control where it is needed. When I stripped my 38 for derusting a couple of years ago I built a puller to remove the easily damaged plastic wheel and have found that it works well on the 29U wheel. It is made from two pieces of 4 x 2 pine clamped together with a 1-5/8 inch hole drilled thru the middle, and some 1/4 steel plate for strength, with a cheap, lightweight steering wheel puller for muscle. The pine is first clamped around the column under the wheel with two reinforcing plates, then the puller body is placed under the third plate and its screw is inserted thru the plate into the puller body. This upper puller assembly is then loosely bolted to the pine. Loosen the steering wheel nut level with top of shaft, insert a suitable bolt with washer in the end of the shaft to protect it, tighten the upper assembly down then progressively tighten the puller screw and apply a light hammer to the screw and it should come free with lots of penetrating oil, patience and persistence.
Pictures are attached.

chetbrz:
THANKS, for the info on the steering wheel puller looks like a safe way of pulling the wheel off without creating any more additional damage.  Nice idea..., I will be heading in that direction soon. 

Right now I am still dealing with the front suspension.  OK, here is the typical dilemma we face with these old Plymouths.  "Repair Part's".


The size of the leaf spring eye holes were changed in 1933.  So no existing replacement parts are available.  Since I am having the springs made I could change the eye holes to facilitate an available 1935 shackle or go the other route and have shackle parts made ?  The front leaf spring eye hole is in diameter accepting a " Bronze bushing with an ID of 9/16".  I can find Oilite Bushings x inch and drill them out to 9/16 ID.  OK not a bad fix?

The shackle side is a little more of an issue in that the shackle posts are badly worn and deformed.



I may order a 1933 front shackle to see how close it matches then I could have the rear eyelet hole drilled to that size.  The 1929 eyelet hole is 7/8"

Any suggestions ???  None of this is ever easy.

Articifer Tom:
Chet . looks like you got a lot of it figured . Only thing a would look again ,  at is reaming out shackle hole in spring . I had same question when I adapted the Chrysler spring to my Dodge ,front oil lite was prefect fit, but rear needed bushing out and larger hole . I did not think it best to cut hardened spring so machined the surface hardened post to fit , this let the ends still hard . If your posts are totaled . Just machine new ones and surface harden .
  Was curious if on springs strap you found the manuf. number and a symbol of a keystone . If so they were probable made by Tyron Co . also, like shackles , out of Harrisburg Pa. .
                                                      tom 

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