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Engine back from rebuild.

Started by chetbrz, July 01, 2018, 07:49:15 AM

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chetbrz

Looks good.., hopefully runs as good as it looks.



Need to run it ASAP.  I guess I might mount it back in the car just so I could hook up the radiator and fire it up with the bare minimum.  Right now still sitting in the back of the pickup.

This is the note I got from the rebuilder:  Any additional suggestions ??

Hello Chet:

Break in sheet is that once engine has oil we recommend 30 weight detergent with zinc Brad Penn brand is good to use.  Where this engine is full pressure and has pressure regulator on drivers side under the cover you may need to adjust it to get best results.  I left it at previous setting, it may be too much now since engine is rebuilt.

Once engine is started you will run for five minutes and stop. Let engine cool off and retorque cylinder head nuts to fifty lbs.  We would also recommend that you fill cooling system with water initially and liquid block sealer "Bahr's Leak" comes in pint bottle to seal studs and head gasket.

After this is done You can restart and break in camshaft by alternating engine on fast idle up and down the rpm range for at least 30 minutes.  I would recommend you have at least an hour of run time on the engine before changing the oil.  Again you can use 30 weight detergent.

It's a simple engine and really straight forward.

I would recommend periodically checking torque on head gasket as well as all bolts and nuts on engine . The engine heats up and cools down the gaskets will expand and contract needing to have bolts and nuts retightened.

Any questions please ask.

Thanks  John 



Chet...
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

frankp

Very Nice!  I vaguely remember when mine looked that good.  Interesting note to use stop leak, I had no such recommendation.
frank p

racertb

Looks great and can't wait to hear your thoughts on it when running!  Like Frank said, never heard of the stop leak use before...I guess I'd follow the builders instructions.

chetbrz


I'm not liking the stop leak idea.  If the engine had a water pump with positive flow I would be OK with it but not wanting to use this in a thermal-syphon engine.  Also the water system is not pressurized so I think this is overkill.

Got the engine bolted back in so I will use the car as a test bed.  I'll setup the minimum required to get it running with a battery.

I'll keep you guys posted. 

PS.., I think I will treat the engine to a new distributor base.  Will call then & now on Monday.
http://www.1948Plymouth.info           Web Master - Forum Administrator - AACA member

rwollman

Chet_ i agree with your thoughts on stop leak.  not a pressurized system  so if gaskets are correct no need for it> may also bother radiator flow....just my thoughts
Rad