The forum has almost been dormant the last part of 2023 and I hope it revives in 2024. 
Someone must have a project they are working on and I am sure everyone would like to hear about it.  My 30-U project just needs the interior done and I have everything I need to complete the car except for the original gas cap that I am searching for.  Back in the early 70's during the gas crisis I replaced the original gas cap with a locking gas cap after someone syphoned the gas out of my tank while it was sitting in a  parking lot (in those days I used the car everyday to go back and forth to work). Anyway, after three moves the original gas cap has disappeared and frankly I don't even remember exactly what it looks like. A picture of the correct gas cap would be very helpful.  A happy, healthy and prosperous New Year to all!

I know this may sound to obvious but have you tried adjusting the idle adjustment screw on the carburetor.  I don't know how familiar you are with these carburetors but it is the one screw just below the mounting flange.  Other than the idle stop screw it is the only adjustment you can make externally on these carburetors. If you are running a vacuum tank and have a gas filter between it and the carburetor (other than the glass sediment bowl on the vacuum tank) I would bypass it just to eliminate that as a possible cause. 
If you are looking for another carburetor to try you can run a Carter BB-1 but there are a few variations of it so you need to find one with the right throat size. I run one on my 30-U because I have never had much luck with the carburetor you have on your car although the issue was not idling but hesitation on acceleration.  After 3 rebuilds I finally gave up.

Do you have a fuel filter in line?  Could be a lot of things.  What carburetor are you running?  Did you try the simple fix first by richening the mixture? Assuming that you are just restarting after a winter hiatus and that everything was OK when you shut it down last I have to suspect a restriction in the fuel line.  If my assumption is incorrect then I would check float level and intake manifold leak.

No welting there on my 30-U.

Steel products are good quality and they usually fit properly unlike a lot of repro stuff.  They are pricey but worth it.   I bought a number of things from them for my 30-U coupe and was very satisfied.

There is a Kingston vacuum tank listed on eBay that looks to be complete, including the sediment bowl with shut off that is often missing or broken off.

The open car wiper motor has the on off switch integral with the wiper motor while the closed cars have a switch on the dashboard.  If I remember correctly the spacing of the mounting screws is pretty standard so you should be able to find a wiper motor fairly easily.  I have a few but they are for closed cars. I believe the vacuum line on the 30-U roadster I used to own was plumbed with a hard line to the windshield stantion and a flex line from there to the wiper motor so the windshield could fold out but I haven't owned that car since 1968 so I may be wrong.

Glad the weather cooperated and everything went well. Outdoor weddings can be nerve racking but when they work out they're great.  The car looked good too!

It can't act as a ground.  It has a rubber component that absorbs vibration in addition to working as a stabilizer.  The engine should be grounded with wires from the bell housing to the frame. 

I have replaced the switch without having to bleed the brakes and there was no fluid loss. I always assumed that if the rest of the system is air tight no fluid would drip out and no air would get in.

My '52 CJ-A had them in the back and they were slits so you could get a feeler gauge in there to measure the gap between the shoe and the drum.  One on each side of the backing plate.  I guess having it on the drum let you have one opening and allows for adjustment as you rotate the drum.  If it was such a great idea I wonder why my 30-U doesn't have that screw in the drum.

That's how I was taught to use the knock off and that is how I always used it when my car had wood wheels but I still was never comfortable doing it and on occasion I found that it took a lot more persuasion than a couple of firm taps. Much happier using a puller with wire wheels and I don't miss split rims either!

Your probably right about that.  I looked for the water gauge for my 1908 Locomobile for years without success and found four of them at Hershey the year after I finally found one on EBay.  As far as the puller is concerned,  as I said, I found that heat made all the difference with a stubborn drum and I would rather use the torch than the hammer.

You can use a knock off instead of a puller as the bearings are back to back but I have a thing about beating on an axle with a sledge hammer.  I have a puller that I got years ago at a garage sale and you're welcome to borrow it if you can't find one but it's heavy and I think the postage back and forth would be better spent buying a puller.  With the right puller I have never had a problem puling a drum so I don't  think you need to spend a ton of money to get one.  I tighten em up and if the don't pop off I hit them with the torch!

Looks like you should be able to salvage some waffle washers from that rear end!