Quote from: 29UJohn on November 04, 2016, 09:54:30 PM
Don Kuhn
973-423-1196
Cell: 973-904-0270
81 Grahm Ave
North Haledon, NJ 07508

... The cost was 4225 + $20 S&H, ...

Was there a decimal point in that 4225 number  

Quote from: Articifer Tom on November 04, 2016, 11:47:19 AM
Check out page 248 part RW2 of The Filling Station catalog . It has new posts available ,that look close .

Hi Tom,

I checked out the ones on ebay and also the ones from the catalog.  The Chevy 30-33 was a Tryon Shackle but the Shackle pins are to small.  It is a shame that dimensions for old parts are not stated.  Back in the day most auto manufactures used off the shelf manufactured parts which were not proprietary.  If I can't find original parts there are options.  Probably use oil-lite bearings and pin the shackles that I have.  Also discussing this with Tom at Antique Auto Parts.  If I ever find a proper replacement I can always pop out the oil-lite bearings and install the original Tryon Shackle.  I sent the spring I have to EATON Detroit Spring and hopefully they can make me a fresh new set.  They need the old spring mainly to determine the hardness of the material.  In the meantime I am dissembling all the front steering components, they will all be cleaned, painted, and checked for excessive wear.  Anything badly worn will be repaired are replaced.  The good news is the King Pins are in great shape.




Tks Chet...

Beautiful Job.  I love paint... Done well...

Chet...

Quote from: Articifer Tom on November 02, 2016, 07:38:16 PM
Looks a lot like mine .Will have to measure . Remember pin is pressed fit in spring . See attached info at
www.wokr.org/library/Tryon.PDF  Trying to attach a pic of mine don't seem to work .  Did work ,good !
   

Tom that is the exact shackle for the 29 Plymouth U Front leaf rear shackle.  I haven't checked the rear springs yet.
As stated in the PDF document you posted:   www.wokr.org/library/Tryon.PDF

Shackle Pin Dimensions:

Pin OD = 0.877 +-0.0005 (approx. 7/8)  &  Length = 2.9375  (approx. 2 & 15/16)

And yes the pin was press fitted into my spring.  I removed it using my press.  Now based on the other cars that used this shackle I can broaden my part search.  I will post this 3 page PDF file to the Tech Area.

Many, many thanks for your research !!!!    Chet...

Quote from: Articifer Tom on November 02, 2016, 12:45:33 PM
... I had same question when I adapted the Chrysler spring to my Dodge ,front oil lite was prefect fit, but rear needed bushing out and larger hole .

Tom,

What size were the shackle pins on your Dodge.  On the Plymouth they fit a 7/8" hole.  See Diagram below.  Does this look anything like your Dodge shackles.



On the drivers side spring I need one shackle pin and both inner and outer shackle plates Items 2 & 9. I can have them made but fear this might cost $$$.  I may need to find a small metal shop out here in Delaware.  It probably cost the same to make one as it does to make 20.

THANKS, for the info on the steering wheel puller looks like a safe way of pulling the wheel off without creating any more additional damage.  Nice idea..., I will be heading in that direction soon. 

Right now I am still dealing with the front suspension.  OK, here is the typical dilemma we face with these old Plymouths.  "Repair Part's".


The size of the leaf spring eye holes were changed in 1933.  So no existing replacement parts are available.  Since I am having the springs made I could change the eye holes to facilitate an available 1935 shackle or go the other route and have shackle parts made ?  The front leaf spring eye hole is ¾" in diameter accepting a ¾" Bronze bushing with an ID of 9/16".  I can find Oilite Bushings ¾ x ½ inch and drill them out to 9/16 ID.  OK not a bad fix?

The shackle side is a little more of an issue in that the shackle posts are badly worn and deformed.



I may order a 1933 front shackle to see how close it matches then I could have the rear eyelet hole drilled to that size.  The 1929 eyelet hole is 7/8"

Any suggestions   None of this is ever easy.

I found a company that will remanufacture my front springs.  The Plymouth Part Number is 43606 which fits all cars before Y-097-CR.   It is a 9 leaf spring assembly.  The company is; Eaton Detroit Spring Co.  I decided to replace the front with new springs because the front sits low and also after 80 years of carrying the motor weight I figure it is time for a change.  I will probably disassemble and clean the rear springs but they seem to be up to the task.



Since I have the roof removed I need to remove the steering wheel so that I can repair it.  If any one has any words of wisdom they would be greatly appreciated.

Quote from: Articifer Tom on October 30, 2016, 04:57:32 PM
Take a careful look at your shackles . I had a broken spring that wore the Tryon brand hangers egged on the end dropping driver side 3/16"  . Just reversing hangers holders and replacing spring corrected . Also DBC website has a list of all arch measurements of Dodge springs ,by physical sizes may match to other Mopars . If nothing else both sides should be the same .

OK Tom, thanks for the tip. I will be checking into all this over the next couple of days.  Hopefully be able to find some specs on 29 Plymouth suspension.  My car seems to lean forward so I think I have more issues with the front than the back.  If I am going to start in this area I will probably be addressing all the steering components also.   

Cheers,  Chet...

Quote from: Des28Qau on October 30, 2016, 05:43:00 AM
Hi Chet.
I enjoy watching and reading the progress of yours and others resto's , issues , remedies and tips.
One thing which may or may not be an issue, is that the chassis is designed to and dose flex a little .
  " Sitting on the jack stands my driver side door doesn't want to close for a number of reasons ".
When on 4 wheels the weight is over the 8 spring mounts. When on the stands ( nearer the centre ) the chassis flexes and will be higher in the centre compaired to the ends than when supported by the springs . You may consider when it comes to final alignments to have car is on wheels.
Good luck & I look forward to following the progress .
Regards Des.

Hi Des,  That's an excellent observation and analysis.  I'll be sure to do the suspension work prior to the final reassembly of the body.  This new observation will change my game plan a bit.  I guess before doing any body repair I should address the suspension.  My car seemed to lean to the driver's side even without anyone in it.  The leaf springs need to be repaired and re-arched.  I have a good spring shop near me so I will have to shift from body work to suspension.

Many Thanks for posting,  Chet...

Quote from: frankp on October 29, 2016, 12:20:01 PM
Great guide.  Was the Fisher body wider than Hayes?  7 passengers in mine would be a bit personal.

Good question, Yes the guide book is extremely detailed showing wood joining types, techniques, and repair processes across all body types from coupe to 4 door sedans it even includes banging out dents in the metal skins.   Of course dimensionally incorrect for our cars but the structural elements are exactly correct in number and types of support components.   Without this book it would be all guess work with it I can now understand and recreate the structure using what is left of the old, along with a better understand of what should exist.  It's like replacing a wall of a building once you understand the construction technique along with the remains of the existing wall.  To me this all seems to make sense.  We'll see.

I am using the 1926-1932 (150 page) Fisher Body Service Manual as a guide for my project.



The theory and practical application is the same, of course the dimensions of the pieces will vary but the techniques for assembly and repair are solid.

Hi Jim, Its been awhile I hope things are going well for you.  Frank I would appreciate any help or suggestions.

I spent the day stripping out the interior of the car to get a better idea of what I am up against.  As I pealed back the onion the results weren't encouraging.  There was very little original wood framing left.  Nothing in the roof was original and little of the floor is original either.





My plan at the moment is to start in the back and work toward the front.  I have a pretty good idea of what pieces are missing and if I can scrape up half of a structural piece I can create a full duplicate.  I have been collecting info for the past number of years so at the moment even though things look daunting I am feeling pretty confident.  We will see... 

Well I have put the Title Problem behind me and have now started on the real work.  The Car.

The main issue I have with this car is the rotting internal wood structure and then everything else.  The roof of the car is one slab of plywood so no real body integrity.  My plan is to repair or reframe this car as close to original construction as humanly possible and as well as my carpentry & mechanical skills will allow.  I guess my first step is to get this car on a level plane and assess the workload.

The good news is that my garage floor is in excellent shape for the task at hand.  I jacked the frame up on four identical jack stands.  Even though the floor is perfectly level I did have to raise the back jack stands up one additional notch to get the car on a level plane ?  I am not sure if this is a problem but I think not.  Any comments would be appreciated. 





The body skins are horribly aligned. As an example.., Sitting on the jack stands my driver side door doesn't want to close for a number of reasons including the center post position.  I will be removing all the interior covering to reveal what's left of the original frame.  Will post pictures as the work progresses.

See Below the tip of the iceberg:

Well I have worked my way through the DMV food chain.  I have an appointment in Dover with a DMV official who will title the car but not correct the FEDCO number nor the year.  They will either title it the same as my Virginia title or generate a new VIN number which would even be further from reality.  So by COB tomorrow I should have a Delaware title for my car and then I can start the actual restoration work.

I hope...  Well see,   Chet...

Now I am officially P-ed off:

Spent 5 hours in a line at the Delaware DMV having my 29 Plymouth inspected by the Delaware State Police Auto Theft Division.  PS..., Second time there in the last 2 months.   I had already explained to them prior to this 5 hour wait that the car was originally titled under the Body ID number and not the FEDCO number so finding the Body ID Number stamped into the frame was not realistic, their answer to me was; Delaware could not title my car.  Mind you.., I have had this car titled, registered, and insured in the state of Virginia for more than 10 Years.  This fact meant nothing to them.  I am going out of my mind.!!!   

I am so P-ed Off that words can not express my feelings at this time.  I told the officer that if I stamped these incorrect numbers unto my frame and let you guys stumble across them then I would be Golden.  Well NO.., I will not do this.   

For now.., drinking a lot and trying to set up an appointment with the State DMV Auto theft investigator.  I mean really, do they think that I am running a 29 Plymouth auto theft ring ??

Chet...