John,

I did this a couple of years ago and bought the windshield gasket from Steele Rubber.  As far as the window slides I may have used the same felt tracks as the door windows.  I really don't remember and can't get to the car at the moment to check.  I do remember that I had everything I needed to complete the job.

I wish I could be more helpful.

Chet...

Hi Steve,

I haven't driven the old girl very much last year because the car really needs some restoration work.  My motor knocks and has a pretty good edge ring around the cylinder walls.  The old car sounds a lot like George Bailey's old car from the movie "It's a Wonderful Life".  I picked up a freshly rebuilt New Style Model U engine from a guy who received it when he purchased his PA.  He didn't want it and I am always interested in usable parts.  The story goes that it was rebuilt by a 90 year old Chrysler Engineer.  I drove the round trip to Detroit to pick it up.   Great story and if I use it I will pop the head and oil pan and inspect it prior to firing it up.  I would probably revert it back to a thermal-syphon style engine.  The way it is now with the water pump the hoses would not bolt up to my existing water ports. 

In answer to your question I am running a Tillotson carburetor and generally use straight 30 or 40 weight oil (Rotella).   Considering the quick usage I would use anything available if I needed a quart.   Generally leaning toward the heaver grade. 

Chet...

Quote from: 29plycoop on January 17, 2015, 09:58:14 PM
The rule of thumb says black smoke or soot means too much gas. Could be a leaking carb float, cold spark plugs, carb set too rich or weak spark. Good luck finding the black monster.
White smoke is a symptom of problems with oil.   - Rich

Rich, You're right.  The carb I have is not correct for the car and does leek a bit.  Hopefully I will be getting to this car this summer. 

Chet...

That's sounds about the same for my old motor.  Also I have a very dirty exhaust.., lots of carbon black but no smoke.  When it has been sitting for a while and I start it up it usually leaves a black soot mark on the ground under the exhaust pip.  Mine exhaust blows down toward the ground.

Chet...

Ted,

If you created a timing mark on the distributor and one also painted on the crank pulley to a definite reference point while the motor runs properly.  Once your problem returns there would be no doubt as to whether your distributor timing is changing.  (i.e. distributor mark and crank pulley no longer match up.)  Until you verify this everything else is speculation.   Remember the crank will make two revolutions to one revolution of the distributor.  I believe this has been mentioned before.

Chet...

Glen,

I would think that the bottom radiator hose would be better place for a temperature sensor.  The top radiator hose doesn't have constant flow. Here again more like water boiling out of a teapot. I am slightly concerned by the fact that you said the installed gauge drops out for a long period but if the lower half of the radiator is cool and no steam you should be OK.  Cars of this era used a motor-meter which was a temperature gauge installed in the radiator cap which allowed the driver to view it from the driver's seat.  The problem with the 29 Plymouth is that you can't open the engine compartment doors with a motor-meter mounted in the cap.  Not a big deal as long as long as you remember this. 

I also had these same concerns when I first start driving my 29 so I purchased a rather expensive repro cap and gauge from J. Fisher.    As Steve pointed out, after a couple of years driving this car I have become very comfortable with the performance of the thermal-syphon system.  See below my current radiator cap.  The front side has the Plymouth emblem and the side facing the driver shows readings for cold, normal, and steam.  This was not a Plymouth option but was a normal add on for the period.



As far as your second question I would use some mixture of antifreeze that has a rust preventative added.  Most general anti freeze products have this.  Just my 2 cents...

BTW... Steve's suggestion about flushing out as much debris from the motor and hoses is a very good one.

Let us know how it goes,  Chet...

If you have a 29 U you do not have a water pump.  The cooling system works on a thermal-syphon principle.   The system is not pressurized.   Basically once filled with coolant the coolant will expand to a working level while driving and eject the unnecessary amount of water.  It is normal to open the radiator cap and not see any coolant when the engine is cold.  Literally while running.., the engine boils out the water and cool water from the bottom of the radiator flows in and the process repeats.  Due to the large size and positioning of the radiator this system works extremely well.  Pressurization started so that the radiator could be made smaller to facilitate more room in the engine compartment and hotter running temperatures for better combustion.

You can tell that the system is working by feeling the very upper section of the radiator and it should be hot while the bottom section should be much cooler.   BTW... once you top off the radiator don't put more coolant in and you should be OK unless your radiator and system is clogged with rust and debris.

Welcome to the Forum,
Chet...

Quote from: 29UJohn on December 29, 2014, 09:39:22 PM
Thanks guys!

Frank,  I would appreciate the pictures.

Chet,
I have been in contact with both Earl and Jeff and they have been very helpful, but I am also interested to know about members cars.  I and am interested in pictures showing paint and other features, especially if the car is original or restored to original.

This collected info sounds like a good idea for a Tech Thread.  Might help someone in the future.

Ted,

Franks suggestion is a good place to start before you start taking apart the car.  This assembly deterioration is a common problem with the original distributor housings. 

Chet...

Ted,

If you do tear into the engine the radiator comes out pretty easily.  Take the radiator shroud off and the supports to the firewall.  Then there are two bolts on either bottom side of the radiator bolting the radiator to the chassis.  Once out you have clear access to the motor.   You can do pretty much anything without removing the engine.  Don't worry you will probably find doing this easier then what you have been doing over the past couple of months.  Take pictures it makes it easy to refer back to when putting everything back together.

PS, in past threads Old Man provided some info on what you should inspect you might want to go back and review them.  If you have a friend who is a gear head invite him over and provide beer.  Work slow and don't scratch the paint

Good luck,  Chet...

John,

You may want to give Jeff Buton a call he is the 29U Tech Advisor for the POC.  If you need his number give me a shout I can email it to you.  If he doesn't know he might be able to put you in contact with one of the judges who should know what is correct and what isn't.

Chet...

Frank,

Sorry to hear about your misfortune and happy to hear that the repairs worked out for the best.  I hope you have a quick recovery time.

Chet...

John,

I can't help you someone sprayed my car all one color but maybe the POC judging guide might help.

Here is the link for your convenience:  http://www.plymouthbulletin.com/guides/1928_1939.pdf

Chet...

Ted,

The spark control was originally designed to retard the timing to just after TDC to allow the operator to crank the motor easier but more importantly to prevent kick back that could injure the person cranking the motor.    Of course all the early cars of the period worked similar so the Model A guys have it correct.  A modern engine like my 1948 Plymouth uses centrifugal and vacuum advance technology to eliminate the need for the spark control cable.

BTW... Never try to crank start your car by hand with the motor timing advanced.   Could be very painful.

Cheers Chet...