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iN Information from Hollander interchange manual OF 1935. First three attachments are for clutch disc and plates. (see message two) The next three attachments are for clutch discs. Next message for clutch discs. The other two attachments cover of manual and date. hope this helps. Might have to make three messages to display it all.
Has anyone had any experience getting an ignition key made by the key code on the side of the key cylinder. They use a BRASCO/ BRIGGS AND STRATTON key blank. Any details will be appreciated. Thank you - Rich
can someone supply a photo or the harness connector that plugs the harness into the bucket on Depress Beam system? I have the three wire plug on the end of the harness (see photo below) but need two of the connectors to orient the three wires into the bucket. I don't know what they look like. Tried to find a supplier to purchase them with no luck. The connector coming out of the bucket is made to receive two pins like a lightbulb. http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=959.0;attach=3576;image for any help Rich
Came across a N.O.S. ignition coil that I think is correct for a '29 Ply. There is no signs that it has ever been bolted in to use. It has the DELCO REMY logo on top and two terminals on top, + plus and - minus and the tower for the distributor cap. Has the three mounting holes on the switch end. Will attempt to attach photos to help. There is no damage that is visible so I am assuming it should be good. In trying to test it with an oam meter across the primary terminals (+ and _ ) and shows no reading and the tower to minus terminal shows 3.21. The question in my mind is - the key switch not being inserted what is the correct way to test this style of coil ? Thanks for any info . Rich
Noticed while cruising the forum that I was not the only one that had problems with the throwout bearing guide on front of the transmission. At the time had access to the machine shop to make one and here is a copy of the print to duplicate one. Hope this helps. It is for a 1929 Plymouth U, 4 cylinder with original transmission. The square thread only returns tranny oil back in tranns. Rich
As brake fluid being so hard on any metal it touches for a long period of time, most all of the master cylinder canisters are damaged by corrosion. Mine was , so went on a wild goose chase to find a replacement . i was lucky to find an original replacement for mine. During my search, found a bulk supplier for a can that has all the right dimensions with one exception that the the top is not cone shaped. Your original screw on cap will fit and you will have to unsolder the fitting from the botton of the original can and solder it to the replacement. The diameter and length is the same as original canister. The inside is treated to handle the brake fluid. I only purchased 3 or 4 to experiment with and they worked out great. Will have to check but think my cost for the limited quantity was about $10 each. If there are enough interested in one I could make some available at cost plus true shipping. Leave a short reply to see how many are interested. - Rich
Found this referenced in the forum on removing the windshield on a '29 U. Does anyone know where it can be accessed to read on line? Suggestions welcome for the removal. Plymouth Bulletin No 256, Vol 43, # 6, dated Depict 2002. The article is, "Through a Glass Darkly", one of Edwin Sapp's many fine articles on 1929 Plymouths. Thanks Rich
(To a replay to a prior post) Their brake peddle went down 1/2 way down before getting firm. Wanted to know if that is normal. For my two cents === After bleeding the whole system. As long as the brakes work with a solid peddle, then release the peddle for about one min. and press peddle down one time again. The peddle should stop at the same position as the first time. The initial adjustment of the brake shoes to the drums will have a lot to do with how far the peddle goes down before getting solid. My rule of thumb for that adjustment, keeping in mind most drums have some ware, adjust shoes as close to drums as possible with out any drag on drum. Happy Motoring Rich
While working on refinishing the wheels on my '29 Plymouth Coupe I finally worked out a solution that may be useful to others. The wheels were cleaned and striped of paint with media blasting, steel and wood. The process worked very well with no damage to the surfaces. Then wanted to treat the wood spokes with linseed oil, about 10 coats. As the steel was bare metal from blasting, I put a coat of linseed oil on that to keep it from rusting. That also worked well. WELL!!!! The past month I have been trying to find something to remove the oil from the steel to get ready to prime for paint. Unknown to me but with some research online , found out if you let linseed oil dry (not recommended) it is very difficult to remove. Name all the different thinners and solvents including gasoline, MEK, Lacquer thinner and so on, non of them worked. The internet saved the day again. On one of the forums one of the members made a one sentence reply to a question posted and it said, try PURPLE POWER cleaner/De-greaser he bought at Walmart. Oreillys Auto Parts is where I bought a two gallon jug that I had on hand. Normally you dilute it to use but this time put it in a spray bottle full strength. Spray on and let set for about 5 min. then took off the initial film with a scraper, then wire brush while keeping it wet with the De-greaser. Wet the metal one more time with De-greaser and wipe off with with paper towels. For the final process hose down with water and blow dry. Tools used are, scraper, small wire brush for tight spots, large wire brush for open areas, ice pick used around spokes and tight crevices, soft hair and hard nylon parts cleaning brushes to get between spokes on brake drums. This process worked great! Two wheels done and two to go. Then on to filling the wood grain and getting them ready to paint. How did your wheel project go? - Happy Motoring - Rich
Thank you for all the info sent to my prior request for photos and dimensions of the original upholstery in your cars. With your help I have made some progress on the interior of my Plymouth. Here are a few photos for reference and the progress made so far. the seat springs are original in case you want to see them for reference. I decided to put a door pocket on each side. The seat cushions came out pretty good with 4 inch pleats. To get 4 inch width pleats to work out they were laid out with 4 1/4 inch spacing before sewing. Next project is to mount the pockets in the door panels. Oh,the headliner and windlass for around the doors is made up ready for instillation. Will be waiting for warm weather for paint and then will install the interior. The way this weather is going around here, ZERO tonight, it might be awhile. Before the cold weather hit last fall I managed to strip and prime the wood wheels. They have to be finished also. As they were still very solid, after striping and cleaning the spokes gave them about 10-12 coats of linseed oil. Shot a coat of self etching primer on the rims and set them aside for spring. Thanks again. HAPPY MOTORING!!!! Rich Let's see how the photos go. photos size to big so will add them next.
After removing the door upholstery panels for replacement noticed the panels are held on with U shaped metal strips with 3/4 in long nails attached. Of course some of the nails broke off so thought I would replace the strips. So far I can not find a replacement for them. The panels are nailed to the wood door frames after they are upholstered with these nail strips already attached. Does anybody know if these nail strips are available anywhere? If not will have to recondition what I have.
[size=12ptPhoto of tack strip for door panel of 1929 Plymouth Coupe upholstery project. The tack strip is actually a "U" shaped piece of metal crimped to the door cardboard with the small nails on the mounting side.][/size]
As winter weather is here it is time to bring projects inside and start on upholstery. It will not be an all out original, just original looking with improvements. Someone has reupholstered the complete interior, more just covered up the original cloth with a gray fuzzy fabric. That was good because it left intact the original material and design. The first panel removed was from the right hand door. In trying to verify the details of what was uncovered the following information will be more of questions. if you can verify the information please advise and thank you. The door panel is rectangle in shape with two holes for handles and one hole for the exterior door handle screw at the back edge. Then a hole cut out where the side door pouch was installed. The dimensions for these can be furnished if needed. Interesting point#1, The pouch was sewn to size with a canvas strap (not sure if elastic) across the top and sewn to a piece of door panel cardboard of the same configuration as the pouch. Question: My pouch material was cut away just leaving the edges around the cutout and they had a piece of cardboard to fill the hole to recover the panel. Was the pouch pleated, and would anyone have a photo of an original pouch? Then it was sewn to the back side of the already upholstered door panel and the pouch just protruded through the hole. As it seems the original fabric on the door is a red canvas on back and an Olive green grained leatherette. Most of the fabric exposed has turned Black but in hidden places when unrolled it is the Olive Green. Question: Just for the record would that color be correct? I am going with a fuzzy upholstery, just wondering. Will attach few photos to help see what this project looks like. The door panel had tack stripes on three sides to nail it to the door. The top panel fabric laid over the edge about 3/4 in. and stapled in place. Then the metal door sill plate screwed in to covered it. The seats have been reupholstered at some time and they will be done again, the Question is, how wide were the pleats on an original seat? The ones in mine are about 5 in. Thanks for any info Rich Trouble loading photos, will try one at a time.
Need info. on the finish on the running boards. Do you know if the aluminum trim pieces that go around the outside edge of the running boards on a 1929 Plymouth Coupe model "U" were originally painted or just as unfinished aluminum? Thanks - Rich
Installing a new horn wire in my '29 Plymouth Coupe sounds easy but turned out to be more then it sounds. After reviewing the earlier threads available in the forum, first removed the light switch and switch lug at the bottom of the steering column. The steering wheel levers were broken off on my car so wanted to remove and work on them also. TRIED to pull both levers and rods out of the steering column but the roof got in the way as the rods are longer then there is room inside to pull them out. So! got the 3 inch hole saw and put a removal hole in the roof to get them out. (not really) So! While remembering a earlier thread that suggested unbolted the steering box and let the steering wheel drop down to get the rods out. Must have been a sedan because that didn't work. With the steering box bolts out, turned the wheels to the left to lay the steering wheel to the right a little, thinking it would give me the needed space to pull the rods. That didn't work either. As there was only one thing in the way to make this an easy job, removed the rear window glass and the rods with the horn wire came right out. Changed the horn wire and I had a ball! This may help the Plymouth/Dodge/Desoto coupe owners. Now on to the steering wheel control levers, next on the "to do list". Happy Motoring!!!! - Rich
With the weather greatly improving I started working down the "to do list" on my '29 Plymouth again. Managed to acquire a gas tank this winter from one of our forum friends and as most tanks this age needed to be cleaned out. Relying on a method used in the past that worked great, strapped it to a rear wheel of my Massey Ferguson (wheel jacked up off the ground and on a jack stand). First rinsed out as much dirt as possible with some old gas that was available. Removed the gas gauge to work on it and not destroy the delicate mechanism in cleaning the tank. Tossed in a couple hands full of hex-nuts and a gallon of carburetor cleaner. Strapped the tank to the tractor wheel, put it in low/3ed gear and tumbled it for about 4 hours. In the process found out that if you remove the small pipe plug in the bottom of the tank, the end of the internal gas line pick-up tube ends there. If you remove the 90 deg brass fuel line fitting that is midway up on the tank (goes to the vacuum tank) you can take the outside of an old choke cable and push it back and forth through this opening to clean the internal line out. The end of the cable will come out the bottom drain hole so you can tell when it is clean. It really needed it! Gave it a couple final rinses and it is ready to go. Will have to take out a few dents, sand blast and paint it. Still have to come up with a new style foam float to replace the the old cork on the gas gauge. Replace horn wire next. - Happy Motoring!!!! - Rich
Can anyone tell if this is the correct interior light housing for a 1929 Plymouth? It is 4 3/4 in. outside and approx. 3 1/2 in. where the lens fits. There is a switch that you rotate to turn it on, at the base of the bulb socket. If it is does anyone have a photo of the lens for it? I would be interested in a spare if one is available. Please email details, Thanks - Rich