Just a quick question...what photo sharing/hosting site is everyone using to share and upload pics here?  I used to use Photobucket, which was free, but now they want $600/year to use their service.  I know there are several free sites out there, but want to see what you guys are using or how you're posting pics.

Thanks!

Ted

Good morning:

I know I brought this topic up a while back, but does anyone know if Floyd Carlstrom is still in business?  Apparently the email address he has on the site is no good and his phone just rings with no answer or way to leave a message.

TB

All:

I briefly mentioned in another thread that I was going to probably have my wood wheels redone (re-painted).  Well, I decided to have it done this week by a local restoration/hot rod shop here in Jacksonville, FL after the hurricane passed.  My wheels were in relatively good shape, but the 30 year old lacquer paint was looking bad.  I had to tighten the spokes on one of them first and I did not disassemble them.  I just wanted them stripped, spokes sanded, cleaned and painted and not over-restored.  Pin stripes will follow when done (like original).  Here are a few photos of the wheels so far...I hope to have them done by the end of the week so I can pinstripe (the stripe will be the darker green color on the car, the wheels and spokes the body color).

The flat green on the wheels near the end of these photos is an etching primer that is followed by a light gray primer.  I will post more photos when everything is done.

All:

Will wire wheels/rims from a '31/'32 Plymouth fit/work on the '29?  If so, does anyone know what is involved with the "conversion"?

Thanks...

TB

All:

Can anyone confirm the size of the spindle nut/castle nut for our cars?  I believe it's 3/4 x 16 tpi...just want to make sure.

Thanks!

See the link with some Q and U parts.  There are probably more than what he has listed...he sent me an email earlier:

http://www.oldride.com/parts/plymouth.html

I've had an intermittent leak in the left rear wheel cylinder and have "repaired" it twice in the past with the kits.  After adjusting and bleeding the brakes the other day (pedal still firm), the small leak has come back, drip(s) on floor beside wheel.

So, should I go with Andy Bernbaum for new cylinders or someone else who is reasonable?  There is a recurring set of 4 on eBay that are $225, no tax of shipping.

Asking for feedback...thanks!

Happy July 4th Weekend!

Quick question...adjusted my brakes and then flushed and bled the entire system.  Pedal is firm approximately half way down and better than it was before.

What position or how far down do you apply the brake to where it's firm?  Just trying to see if mine is similar to others.

Thanks...

This morning and currently on eBay with a $16,500 starting bid and a Buy it Now for $150k.  Someone's been on the crack pipe too long!
(sorry no link)

Although car is running good these days (knock on wood!), I just noticed a hairline crack in my exhaust manifold above the intake just yesterday.  Also, the usual "hot spot" between the intake and exhaust appears to be getting hot again.  Have not noticed any real sounds from the leak or performance issues just yet.  I'm thinking of trying to temporarily repair the crack with some type of high temperature exhaust cement, not JB Weld (apparently, that doesn't take the heat too well), and see how long that works before I take it off and take it somewhere to get repaired.

I'm attaching a photo that show the crack...any thoughts, ideas, experiences with this?

Does anyone use or thought about using an Optima 6V battery?  They are rated at 800 CCA and 1000 CA...they've got to be better than the "normal" 6V batteries out there.

Thoughts?

Hey All:

Took the old gal out on a 55 mile round trip this past weekend, the first time I've had her out more than a few miles in the last two years.  Although she ran great, the oil pressure started dropping after about 20 miles into the trip.  To make a long story short, for most of the time the pressure was reading very close to the same as my mph, i.e., 40lbs. at 40mph, 30lbs. at 30 mph, etc.  In the past, the pressure while driving would be about 40lbs. +/- at all speeds (except idle).

The more alarming part was at idle pressure.  In the past, about 20lbs. minimum when hot at a stop light or stopped wherever.  This time, the pressure dipped as low as 14lbs. at several stops, which I never saw before.  At a traffic light close to home on the return trip, she was idling at about 14lbs and seemed like she might stall and the pressure looked like it was starting to slighly dip some more.  Since there was no one around and the light wasn't changing, I took off so I could keep moving and get the pressure back up.  I made it safely home and ended up changing the oil, which I wanted to do a couple weeks ago.  Afterward, she started fine and I let her run for a few minutes.

I cleaned the screen in the pan 2-3 years ago and it was clean then and since I haven't been driving the car, I doubt the screen is the issue.

I'm going to check for any loose oil lines, but I haven't done anything with them to think that may be an issue.  Maybe the pump needs to be rebuilt?  For what it's worth, I run 10w-30 and that's what the car has used since the mid-80's.

Anything else I should check out?

Thanks!

Ted

Hi All:

Can anyone send me a dash photo with their choke and and spark advance knobs/controls?  I'm thinking of getting new cables with the controls that are labeled.  My car only has chrome controls with no labels.

Thanks...

There is a '29 roadster with wire wheels for sale on eBay.  Just saw it listed yesterday. Looks pretty good overall.

Just checking in to see if anyone is still out there.  Hope you're all doing well.

Looking for where I can find an intake to exhaust gasket, or the proper material to make one.  The material I bought a few months ago did not last, made of paper and metal and for high temperatures.  Also, I had to make three of the same to fit.  Sometimes the ones they have on eBay are not like mine, as they have three holes (maybe for those with the heater?).  Mine is the one (probably like yours) that has two stud holes and the oblong hole (intake) in the middle.

I looked on Bernbaum's site and there was nothing, so I may call him and/or Tome Hannaford on Monday to ask.

Does anyone know if these were originally copper or what they were?

Thanks...

All:

As you may know from my previous posts, I've been fighting a timing/running issue for year now.  Most recently I've made some slight adjustments to the distributor drive and distributor by removing what appeared to be excess slack/play.  I did put a new gear on the distributor as well.  Although that may have helped some, I'm certainly not out of the woods yet.

Yesterday I got the car running again (I took a break from it a while and also had to get a new battery) and kept in running for a good 20+ minutes before I turned it off.  A minor victory.  Before this, I could only get her started and keep her running for a minute or two before she'd slow down and die on me...all this while sitting in the garage.  So, not sure if I fixed anything, other than take up the slack in the drives as I mentioned and a new gear.

I am posting three videos below and would like to get your feedback if you have 10 minutes to spare.  The first is approximately 8 minutes and shows the car running and it's narrarted by yours truly.  The second is of the tailpipe so you can hear how bad the miss is.  The third is of the distributor installed on the car (car not running) and the play/wobble shown.

I know I've got an exhaust/intake leak which needs to be fixed (for the second time) that you can see in the video.  Not sure if the carb also needs to be rebuilt to help matters, but I have a new float and kit to do so if needed, which I may need to anyway.

Please let me know what you think...thanks.

http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0035_zpsxbzuhsqf.mp4

http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0036_zps0qf6zsrh.mp4

http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0037_zpssktvqdvk.mp4

All:

Starting a continuation thread with this regarding the timing issues I've been having.  I am attaching several photos and a couple videos of the distributor and the distributor base housing to get your thoughts on the appearance and function.  Other than a little play in the distributor shaft (see video) and the small shaft inside the housing (see video), they both look like they're in great shape and the play may be normal - but not sure on the "vertical" play of the distributor shaft.  Also, the gear inside the housing looks good as well.

So, if these pieces appear to be normal/good or not, please let me know your opinion.  I am assuming after my examination that they are both in good and functional shape and I'm going to have to get into the motor and inspect/replace the cam gear.

Please let me know your thoughts.

Ted

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Here are the videos:

http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0029_zps6db3mz19.mp4

http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0028_zpsplm7qqtp.mp4

All:

Most of my previous posts over the last few months have dealt with my timing issues that I've been having for a while, and it appears that I may have to get into the motor to check the timing gear.  To sum it all up, the car was running yesterday, looked good on the vacuum gauge, etc.  I've been fighting this on and off now for a few months.  Each time, I can eventually get the car timed and running.  Recently, I thought the carb may be the issue...I'm sure it could be taken apart and cleaned anyway.  I started her up yesterday and listened to her run for several minutes and things looked good.  Then, the idle went down and she started idling rough and the vacuum gauge was going crazy. I shut her off for a few minutes; carb was wet with gas so I thought that was the problem and need to take it off and rebuild now.  I didn't.  I attempted to start the car and she wouldn't.  Heard a couple pops and I knew the timing was screwed up again.  Since I made some marks on the distributor and crank pulley for reference the other day after she was running good, I went to check that out first.

Once my marks were lined up, I pulled off the distributor cap to inspect the rotor. The rotor was definitely off the mark and looked to be almost 180° out from where it should be.  I've had the distributor out before and the gear was fine.  So now, going to put the carb on the back burner.  I think I've been in denial about the gear since I've always been able to get the car running again.  How could I keep getting it running if the gear was bad???

I'm quite sure I've got to get into it to check the cam gear to see if that's the problem.  It's either that or the distributor, whatever is throwing the rotor off and changing the timing.

This is disappointing since my Dad had the motor rebuilt in the '80's and you know there aren't that many miles on the car.  I found hand written receipts and notes from the build and it looks like an engine kit was purchased from Egge, but there is nothing specific regarding the cam or gear.

Anyway, I've never had to do something major on this car before, so I'll need tons of advice regarding tear down of hood, radiator and anything else to get this apart.  Trust me, I don't want to do this if I don't have to, but I don't know what else it could be at this point. I would hate to tear it down only to find out I didn't need to.   

Feeling disappointed...

All:

Haven't been able to work on the car for a while until this past weekend.  I want to get the timing right and have a question about the valve positioning.  I've pulled the valve cover and wanted to make sure that all the valves look like they are moving and operating smoothly.  I had my son turn the engine over several times via the crank and everything appears to be working as far as I can tell in the valve train, so I am assuming there are no sticking valves.

My question is regarding valve positioning and TDC.  I want to make sure that when I static time the car (finger in the #1 spark plug hole method) to find TDC, the valves are positioned in the correct manner.  I know that #1 valves should both be closed (bottomed out on these motors), but what should #4 valves look like?  Should they too be closed as well?  Just want to make sure to see if this matches what I think it should be with the "finger in the hole" method.  Once I get this right, I want to mark the crank and another reference point for future reference.

Also I also plan to rebuild the carb since the last time out it flooded so bad the car stalled.

Thanks for your help...