This is the front view on a '29 Plymouth ignition switch plate that is seen through the dash. Not in the best of shape, hope it helps. The entire front is supposed to be black and says "IGNITION" at the top and "LOCK" at the bottom.   If you need more photos let me know.  My switch is out of the dash in the trunk so I can get to it if needed. Happy Motoring!!!! and THANKSGIVING - Rich 

  THREE CHEERS to all the prior reply's!!!! Thank you all for your problems and information. These four cylinder time machines in no small way keep friendship alive and well. Happy Holidays to all. Rich

Attached are a few photos and some info. that may help. This is my '29 Plymouth transmission with and without the throwout bearing. The front bearing retainer on the trans. is 1.500  in. dia. and is 2.650 long. (the dia. that the throwout bearing carrier slides on) 

  Rusty- As to the heater needed in your 29 Plymouth, I will describe one that was installed in mine when I purchased it. For sure it was not a factory install.  Not sure how efficient it was but you take these cars like you find um.  I didn't get a chance to try it out.  Picture a length of 6 in. metal flue pipe that runs from just below the radiator tank at the top left side of the radiator, attached with a hanger to the radiator support rods,  going straight back to hole cut in the firewall to slip the other end of the flue pipe in secured with a sheet metal screw.  The flue pipe has a cable operated internal round baffle plate to open and close heated air to the car.  Talk about LO-TECH.  I am in the middle of an engine install and everything is off the front of my car or I would send a photo with this. Maybe later when it is back together. Happy Holidays !!!! - Rich

The return spring attaches to a small rib with a hole in it just above the access plate on top of the transmission. Put a mirror and flashlight in the access facing to the back and you will see it. - Rich

The large hole in the bearing carrier is for the guide pin and the small hole is for attachment of the return spring. I left the bell housing in my car to remove the engine for overhaul.
Unbolt trans. drive disc's
Remove trans drive discs
Remove bell housing top and bottom access plates
Unbolt trans from bell housing and remove
Unhook clutch bearing return spring and remove bearing for inspection
At this point you might want to remove and inspect the clutch plate and pressure plate
A cleanup grind on the flywheel and a new clutch plate can do wonders for these old gems.
If you have all the old pieces of your broken trans. front bearing retainer and guide for the throwout bearing and can not find one your local machine shop can make you one. (not the auto parts machine shop a real job shop machine shop.)
Good luck with you project. - Rich

Rusty- Here are photos of my throwout brg. Hope they help. - Rich

  Just a reminder to new & old members of the forum.  To see any photos that are attached to any threads you must register to this forum and log in.  Happy Motoring!!!!

Just to add a trick of the trade. If you leave the key extended out of the keyway approx. 3/8 inch (with the the trans. in gear and key on top of the shaft as suggested already) slide the wheel on all the way, but not tight, then with a brass punch tap the key in place and tighten the wheel in place. The extended key helps a lot to get the wheel and key aligned while still on the small part of the taper on the axle. Happy Motoring!!!! - Rich 

  I have to say that I have not driven any real long distance with my 29 Ply -  Your water pump would be a plus but as I understand if your engine block is clean (roded out and/or boiled out), and radiator has been boiled out and all the coils are clear and straight, an engine with out a water pump will operate just fine.  I have driven mine on some pretty hot days and have had no problems with overheating.  Good luck with either way you decide to go. - Rich

My '29 Ply Coupe front motor mount was a little on the soft side so sent off and was re-vulcanized. (Thanks to Antique Auto Parts Cellar and Tom Hannaford) It was attached with two bolts and nuts to the frame and two bolts to the engine.  Log in to see attached photos. Happy Motoring!!!! - Rich

Hi Rusty-
The timing gear was OK so it went back in.  The oil pump was removed, checked, cleaned and reinstalled. The re-builder mentioned that the motor must not have very many miles on it that it did not show any ware. He removed and clean the oil pressure valve that it was clogged with build-up. I have read on the internet that if it is working don't try to adjust it to a higher pressure. I will be watching the pressure close for a while when it is back on the road. Happy Motoring!!!! - Rich   

Here are the details on the rebuild on my 29 Plymouth "U" 4 cyl.  The first estimate after checking on machine shop work,  parts availability and prices was $2247.87 complete. The real details after all shakes out, machine work finished, parts acquired, mistakes made and etc. are as follows:



• Gasket set $189.00
• (set for a 6 cyl.)Rings $47.19


• .040 over Pistons (4) $179.25
• Intake valves(4) $38.40


• Exhaust valves (4) $99.00 WOW!
• Head studs (replaced two studs) and nuts $31.00


• Rebuild rods (babbitt), main bearings (babbitt) and turn crank, line bore and lay crank $1195.00


• decked the block and ground the head
• Rebuild engine $600.00


• Freight $55.00
• Pan bolts $5.00
• Tax $47.10
The final total was $2481.00
Parts and gaskets from Egge Machine
ReBabbitt work and line bore done in Effingham, Ill. at Effingham Regrinding  
Things always happen so here a few THINGS.
       My rebuild-er called for availability of pistons and for size and was told .030 over were available so he went ahead with boring the block. When the order was made for parts they did not have the .030 but had .040 oversize available. To avoid a long wait for parts went with .040's and re-bored the block.
       The exhaust valves are made of a special material and hard to come by so the price went very high. The intake valves could have been used but opted to get new to match the fresh rebuild. The price of them was normal for intake valves.
        Rings came in as a set for 6 cyl. so I have two extra sets of rings just in case.
        The pistons were identical to the factory ones that came out.
        The three main bearings are inserts set in the block with undersize babbitt, and then line bored to fit the crankshaft. There are two straight and one flanged.  The rods are re-babbitted and bored to fit crank.
         The cam shaft runs in the block with out bearings. It was OK.

Added another THING.  The valve keepers (5/32 pins i think) were not available so the ends of drill bits of appropriate size were used. They are tough and not brittle.
The weather has me worried as it has turned cold and I was in the middle of stripping, cleaning and repainting from the firewall forward. The engine is ready to breath fire and has to wait.
This will give you an idea of what it might take to stop one from smoking. This all came about from the engine smoking a little and a crack across the top of a piston in #4.
HAPPY MOTORING!!!! - RICH[/list][/list][/list][/list]

Welcome aboard Mr.Miesel!  Thanks for sharing your happy memories. I was aware that the 29 Ply was the first hydraulic brakes but did not know about the tube tires. My 1929 Plymouth engine just came back from being overhauled and the owner of the shop shared a memory that I will pass along.
      He explained that when he was a young man he grew up in a rural area on a farm. His neighbor had a early 40's model Plymouth that would not start in the winter time. The car was obtained to go to town on Fridays to get groceries and other necessity's. The house was at the bottom of a high hill. The car was parked at the top of the hill before Friday's trip to town.  Friday morn they would hike up the hill, get in the car and roll down the hill in an ATTEMPT to start it. On real cold days one time up the hill was not enough and they would get the horses out of the barn, hitch up the car and tow it back up the hill to try again. On really really cold days it WOULD NOT START. One of the accessories the old Plymouth had was a gasoline heater, so they fired it up, hitch the horses to the car, raise the windshield and run the leashes through to handle the horses while Dad steered the car all the way to town. Talk about low miles per gallon!  I wish a picture was available of that one. I can see it now!!!!  HAPPY MOTORING!!!! -Rich     

Here is some interesting info taken from an article on the 1929 Plymouth that Special Interest Auto magazine did in 1997. Shows Plymouth's better features over the other two in its day. It is a jpg. file, just right click on it, go to the top tool bar, click "VIEW" and drop down to "ZOOM IN" (3-4 times)  and it will zoom to read if needed. Lets try. Happy Motoring!!!! - Rich