You have to go to page #2 of the original thread for the wiring sketch. I missed seeing the #2 at the bottom at first.

  Had a chance to make a sketch of the wiring to the steering wheel switch on my 1929 Plymouth Coupe. As far as I know the owners manual does not show these details. I still need to get a new wiring harness or wire to make one. All the original wires are there but frayed at the ends.  It is a jpeg. file so it can be downloaded for reference.  (this is the way mine came) Happy Motoring!!!! - Rich     

Rusty- Here is the linkage photo.

Rusty-
Here are a few photos of the linkage from the light switch at the steering wheel. They are hanging in mid air with a wire and cardboard behind it. (engine is out) sorry for the dirt at the switch. When I get the engine back maybe more photos then with linkage installed. This waiting stinks! Hope this helps. - Rich

PUT !PUT-PUT !!PUT-PUT-PUT !!!!Scott-
Nice car! Was wondering if you can post a close-up photo of the levers on your steering wheel? Some dimensions as to length and height would be great. A winter project may be to reproduce them. The engine is out of my car but will see if I can get photos of the linkage tomorrow. Happy Motoring!!!!  - Rich 

  Hi Rusty!  My '29 Plymouth coupe has the levers missing in the center of the steering wheel also. My guess is those parts will have to be reproduced as the metal the originals were made of does not hold up and the lightest pressure breaks them off. My engine is being overhauled so can not help with photos of the linkage at this time. Finding parts is part of the fun.  Welcome to the forum. - Rich

Hi Jim - Thanks for the info on the switch re-builder. Will give them a call. Happy Motoring!!!! - Rich

Please send the information on who you had rebuild your ignition assembly. I think the face plate is the same as the 30 U so would be interested in the decal also. As near as I can make out the face plate has the word "IGNITION" aprox. 7/8 in. above the hole in the center and 1/4 in. below "IGNITION" is the word "OFF". Then the word "LOCK" aprox, 3/4 in. below the center hole.  I am guessing the word "ON" is on the face plate somewhere. (see photo below for reference)  email me at fishn@centurytel.net for my address and I would be glade to pay for the decal with postage. Thanks for the reply. Happy Motoring!!!! - Rich   

  Has anyone tried to take apart the ignition lock, switch and ignition coil on a 1929 Plymouth? I got as far as removing the nickle trim ring and two screws that hold another backing steel plate. The coil looks to be spot welded to the mounting bracket that has the three holes to mount the assembly to the dash.  Could it be??  How would you change the coil?  The lock assembly looks to be crimped in place to the top of the mounting bracket.  There is a small hole (aprox. 1/8 dia.) in the bottom of the mounting bracket. Is it a drain or does it have a purpose for dis-assembly or ?? The idea was to try to change the coil to a N.O.S. one that I have and free-up the ignition switch at the same time.  The pot metal lock assembly is a little tight. BUT maybe I won't. Any experience out there with this assembly?  Happy Motoring!!!! - Rich   

After finding a cracked piston and cylinders tapered about .010 the '29 Ply. 4 cyl. went to the machine shop this week. Waiting to see how it checks out. It didn't have much ridge at the top of the cylinders. Bores were smooth, exhaust valves need replacing, rod bearings look good, rings were free. Will update as it goes along.

  How about that! My light switch has numbers also. Numbers are located on the metal cover just above each terminal. They are not in numerical order. From the engine side of the switch the first one is #1 and from there towards the steering column they read: #1, #3, #2, #4, #6, then #5.  Thanks for the heads up. - Rich  

Hi again - I have been out of town and will get some more detailed wiring of the head light/horn switch on my 29 Ply. I am in the middle of pulling the engine to have it bored out and install new rings and etc. I didn't notice any numbers on my switch but didn't really look that hard. Ill check again.  I listed the wiring from the engine block side on across to the other side. I will ohm meter each wire and post the info as soon as I can. HAPPY MOTORING!!!! - Rich

Internet info I thought interesting. (not sure if all info is correct but interesting)
Plymouth continues its rising sales, just about the only car to do so during the Great Depression. While styled nearly identically to the 1929 Model U Plymouth, the 1930 Model 30-U Plymouths had an "all steel" body. Externally the most visible change is to a wide radiator shell much more in keeping with the industry standard. The fuel gauge was moved from the top of the tank and put on the dash and becomes an electrical instrument. Hydraulic shock absorbers replace the earlier friction type. There were many running changes during production of the 30-U. Early production had a vacuum tank fuel pump. This changed to a mechanical fuel pump and a water pump was added. There were three different types of wire wheels used with three different bolt patterns. Early wood wheels were de-mountable rims while the later wood wheels were removable. On April 8th, 1930 production of the 30-U began with VIN number 1,500,001.
Happy Motoring!!!! - Rich   

  Has anyone found a chart of the different sizes of fiber drive shaft discs as to physical size and bolt patterns from hole to hole for different model year cars? Please advise if available.  Maybe member contributions to make a list of them could be posted for reference to the forum. Thanks - Rich

• 1928-29 PLYMOUTH,  6 holes are 2 1/4 in. apart,  6 in. in dia., Center Hole 2 1/4 in. wide,  5/16 in. thick  

        19on 5 1/4 in. bolt circle; and 2 1/8 in. apart; and discs are 5/16 in. thk.

27 Chrysler[/b] (

not verified) : 7 in. dia.; 2 5/8 in. inside dia.; w/six 1/2 in. dia. holes
Please add your cars disc sizes[/color] [/list]

2ed Photo '29 Ply horn bracket.