Just made the order for 15 canisters and lids. To figure what you owe the formula is as follows:
        $5.39 ea. canister + $0.11 ea. lid + $6.00 shipping to you. For one canister the total is $11.50 Then just add for the
             total for the number of canisters and lids you had ordered. You can make payment by going to www.paypal.me/RICHCARS . You
             do not need a paypal account to pay this way. If there are any problems we will get it figured out. Just let me know. Happy Motoring! - Rich

I was excited to find a replacement canister that matched the original so closely. Just had to share. Profit is no concern. Just enjoy the find. -Rich

Go to www.paypal.me/RICHCARS to make payment for canisters after I get all the totals figured out. With this link you do not have to have a paypal account to pay. Enter amount you owe and follow prompts. Will be a couple weeks before I get them. -Rich

So far as of today the reply's total up to 15 canisters and caps to order. I will make the order on the 2ed of April allowing for any added or changes to orders. Looks like an order of two canisters can be sent to you for about $12 to $15 total.  will calculate a little closer and post it here. Don't know he best way to pay as yet, will figure it out. No profit on my end just trying to help. Rich

As of today there are four 4 members interested in a brake canister. The canisters are $5.39 ea.The lids that fit this can are only $0.10 ea. and will not be available until the 26Th of March, so will wait to make an order until then. If there are any other members that want a canister leave a note here before the 26Th of March when I will make the order. SO - $5.39 + $0.10 +plus some shipping  I will ship the canisters to members by 1st Class Mail. The total can be figured out after I receive the canisters. - Rich 

Thanks for the replacment seal info. Another trick for the books.

On the front axel tighten just enough to take out end play of the wheel bearings. The rear wheel being on a tapered axel is tightened to no end play and then to the next hole to align with the sloted nut for the cotter pin. A THIN coat of antisize lube on the taper will aid the next time the rear wheels are removed. - Rich

One little trick sometimes forgotten is to use talcom powder on the flaps and inner tubes when installing then. It lets them seat properly when aired up and helps keep them from sticking together. - Rich

As brake fluid being so hard on any metal it touches for a long period of time, most all of the master cylinder canisters are damaged by corrosion. Mine was , so went on a wild goose chase to find a replacement . i was lucky to find an original replacement for mine. During my search, found a bulk supplier for a can that has all the right dimensions with one exception that the the top is not cone shaped. Your original screw on cap will fit and you will have to unsolder the fitting from the botton of the original can and solder it to the replacement. The diameter and length is the same as original canister. The inside is treated to handle the brake fluid.
I only purchased 3 or 4 to experiment with and they worked out great. Will have to check but think my cost for the limited quantity was about $10 each. If there are enough interested in one I could make some available at cost plus true shipping.
Leave a short reply to see how many are interested. - Rich

Quote from: chetbrz on February 26, 2018, 05:41:19 PM
Basically Who else has this bracket ?
My '29 Ply coupe has this flat wire strain relief from out from the head. FYI

Thank you John for the info. Will order one ASAP. I guess while the windshield is out would be a good time to put safety glass in. Happy Motoring

Quote from: chetbrz on April 17, 2014, 11:50:42 AM
Roland,

Sounds like you have been down every avenue.  The engine you described sounds good.  My assumption is that you also have a new capacitor as well as the new coil.  Everything else makes it worst brings us to either spark or gasoline.  I had an 8 cylinder that drove me nuts which had a new distributor cap that got a good deal of moisture in it due to a rather large puddle.  Even after it along with everything else was dried out and after a close inspection, which turned up nothing wrong,  the motor would misfire like it had bad wires.  Like you.., I went down every path and finally changed the distributor cap because it was the only thing I hadn't replaced twice because it was new.  Bingo the motor purred like a kitten.  Apparently after closer inspection it appeared that it was arcing from the center point randomly to the plug points.  Maybe the moisture or maybe a defective cap.  To this day I always save my old working distributor cap as a spare, just in case.
If you try the carb and it doesn't help, I would try a new set of plug wires not bunched together in the wire holder and a new distributor cap just because. 

One last quick question, anything unusually going on when this problem first showed itself.  In my case it was rain.

On Second thought 9 psi at idle I think is low.  Have you checked the intake manifold for cracks or loose bolts.  Also the carb ?  My flathead 6 cyl pulls 21 @ low idle and rock steady.  I am not sure with my 29 I don't think I have had the need to check it.  Probably should just for a point of reference.

PS... The reading I am using for vacuum is measured in inches of mercury.
21 inch of mercury = 10.31 psi   So 9 psi at idle may not be a problem if you are measuring in psi.




Chet...

Good idea Chet

Thanks Chet for the reply. Will look into the CD for this project and others.

The carburetor to the right of the photo is a Carter DRT-08 and is the correct one for the 1929 Plymouth U automobile. Minor rebuild kits and spare part carbs come up on Ebay now and then. Good luck with your car.