Found this referenced in the forum on removing the windshield on a '29 U. Does anyone know where it can be accessed to read on line?  Suggestions welcome for the removal. 
Plymouth Bulletin No 256,  Vol 43, # 6, dated Depict 2002.  The article is, "Through a Glass Darkly", one of Edwin Sapp's many fine articles on 1929 Plymouths.
Thanks Rich

(To a replay to a prior post)  Their brake peddle went down 1/2 way down before getting firm. Wanted to know if that is normal. For my two cents === After bleeding the whole system. As long as the brakes work with a solid peddle, then release the peddle for about one min. and press peddle down one time again. The peddle should stop at the same position as the first time. The initial adjustment of the brake shoes to the drums will have a lot to do with how far the peddle goes down before getting solid. My rule of thumb for that adjustment, keeping in mind most drums have some ware, adjust shoes as close to drums as possible with out any drag on drum. Happy Motoring  Rich

Thanks for the ride. Nice car!

The distributor in the 1930 turns reverse to the 1929 is one differance.

Oldman- while in the US Navy for four years I went to school to learn how to work on Pratt Whitney radial engines. They were also used in helicopters that I did a lot of flying in. We are showing our age. They were moving into jet power in the last part of my enlistment. Thank you for your service to your country. - Rich

While working on refinishing the wheels on my '29 Plymouth Coupe I finally worked out a solution that may be useful to others. The wheels were cleaned and striped of paint with media blasting, steel and wood. The process worked very well with no damage to the surfaces. Then wanted to treat the wood spokes with linseed oil, about 10 coats. As the steel was bare metal from blasting, I put a coat of linseed oil on that to keep it from rusting. That also worked well. WELL!!!!
The past month I have been trying to find something to remove the oil from the steel to get ready to prime for paint. Unknown to me but with some research online , found out if you let linseed oil dry (not recommended) it is very difficult to remove. Name all the different thinners and solvents including gasoline, MEK, Lacquer thinner and so on, non of them worked. The internet saved the day again. On one of the forums one of the members made a one sentence reply to a question posted and it said, try PURPLE POWER cleaner/De-greaser he bought at Walmart. Oreillys Auto Parts is where I bought a two gallon jug that I had on hand. Normally you dilute it to use but this time put it in a spray bottle full strength. Spray on and let set for about 5 min. then took off the initial film with a scraper, then wire brush while keeping it wet with the De-greaser. Wet the metal one more time with De-greaser and wipe off with with paper towels. For the final process hose down with water and blow dry. Tools used are, scraper, small wire brush for tight spots, large wire brush for open areas, ice pick used around spokes and tight crevices, soft hair and hard nylon parts cleaning brushes to get between spokes on brake drums. This process worked great! Two wheels done and two to go. Then on to filling the wood grain and getting them ready to paint. How did your wheel project go? - Happy Motoring - Rich

My 29 has levers on the rim.

I purchased a set of gears for my distributor drive from Antique Auto Parts.  I reproduced the distributor housing out of aluminum and it worked very well. Just a note, the gears they sell must be installed as a set as they are not the exact same grind as the originals, but work very well. They do sell the complete housing and gears and have heard they also work very well. That is why they sell the housing and gears as an assembly so they have the right backlash. Good luck - Rich

Keep in mind the two gears should run together at the center of both gears. Any shims added should be to keep this alignment. If there is truly 1/16 end play that should be reduced to about .010 with very little side play between the gears. The side play of both gears can be checked by turning the rotor back and forth with light pressure. A small amount is OK. Any large amount will have to be adjusted. Hope this helps. - Rich

1929 Plymouth Light Switch Photo.

Chet is correct the switch is factory stamped with numbers on the outer perimeter and the numbers are not in order. 1-3-2-4-6-5 from engine side toward fender is as factory stamped and the sketch was made with these in mind.  Thanks for added wiring color codes to the switch. What manual did the wiring color codes come from? - Rich

In case you may have missed it, there is a drawing of the wiring of the light switch under the "TECHNICAL INFORMATION" heading on the home page. After re-wiring my 29 Ply and tracking the info down, made the sketch and posted it. The information was not available anywhere that I could find. Good luck with it. I will get a photo and post the switch on my car. - Rich

The rule of thumb says black smoke or soot means too much gas. Could be a leaking carb float, cold spark plugs, carb set too rich or weak spark. Good luck finding the black monster.
White smoke is a symptom of problems with oil.   - Rich

My 29 Ply Coupe has switch on end of steering colume.

Just a reminder when you check timming of the distributer, 1st make sure the #1 cyl is on the compression stroke with your thumb over spark plug hole for pressure then bring up on top dead center. Then check the marks you made prior. This will keep you from being on the exhaust stroke that is 180 deg out. Good luck. - Rich [t/size]