Thanks John for the offer.  I don't see this as a big problem. The dash is easily masked so for now I think we will be OK.

Anyway still time before the car goes to paint. I have top door sills to make and also some other body work. I would like to finish with the needed repair to the door wood frames.  Maybe paint over the summer, we will see how much progress gets accomplished.

You're right about the Dash Frank, but I will still need it installed.  I don't want them disassembling the dash especially because of the obsolete surface screws.  I'll mask it with brown paper and paint it separately or work something out with the shop.  I would like to remove all the fenders.  It would make for sharp paint edges by painting the fenders off the car.  I think the painter might prefer doing it this way.   I'll talk with him when the time comes. In the very least I most definitely want the rear fenders removed and painted separately.  Still quite a bit away but getting ever closer.

Hi John,

That worked out great.  I know mine needs some work mostly because one of the hinges is frozen.  I'm light years from working on these types of details but thanks for posting.  It's good info.  Hopefully will be there sooner or later.

Chet...

Russ, FYI:


From J&M Machine:

Hello Chester:
    The rod bolts we received for your engine won't work as he left off one dimension when I ordered them.
The correct one is ARP AR343-1 this bolt is right one fits Studebaker.
John

The Roof Lath

I took advantage of the summer like weather and made some incremental progress to the old car.
Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2018/04052018.htm



Chet...

Link to Build Thread Part 1
http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?topic=1102.0

Quote from: 29plycoop on April 03, 2018, 09:56:55 PM
Just made the order for 15 canisters and lids. To figure what you owe the formula is as follows:
        $5.39 ea. canister + $0.11 ea. lid + $6.00 shipping to you. For one canister the total is $11.50 Then just add for the
             total for the number of canisters and lids you had ordered. You can make payment by going to www.paypal.me/RICHCARS . You
             do not need a paypal account to pay this way. If there are any problems we will get it figured out. Just let me know. Happy Motoring! - Rich

I tried to put in $11.50 and it came up as 1500.  Also I tried to PayPal to your email address and it came up as John F.

Please Advise,  Chet...

Thanks guys,

Beautiful day today getting a lot done.  73 degrees at 1:50 PM

I agree. 

The Roof Progress Continued

Due to the length of this task and the number of pictures I posted a link to the blow by blow description below:

http://www.1948plymouth.info/1929/Work_files/2018/03282018.htm



Chet...

Link to Build Thread Part 1
http://www.1948plymouth.info/28Q29U/index.php?topic=1102.0

You might want to check an old Motors Manual from the late 20's or early  to mid 30's.  And look at the Maxwell 4 cyl.

Below is a link to the "Plymouth First Decade" tech area:

http://www.ply33.com/Repair/torque

Rich do you have a PayPal account ?

Hello Chester:
   Actually replacements are available.
Since we had done a PB engine a few years back I had in my memory we used ARP.

   Tell your friend that the modern replacement is for a 440 Chrysler, of course.
Part number for the bolt is AR312-1 and nut is N503-RE  He'll need 8 of each.

Thanks
John

Hi Russ,  Please verify before ordering but hopefully this will work,  Chet...

Hi Rusty,

This is what I received back from J&M Machine concerning the rod bolts.

"Chet:
Thanks for the e-mail.
I have been out for several days with the stomach flu so I didn't see your e-mail.
We are trying to find a modern replacement for those bolts as naturally all Nos ones are long gone.
Will let you know what we come up with."

Rusty when I know you'll know.  Sorry I guess this is going to be one of those simple things that turns into a big project.  I would guess that they would have to re-tap a standard rod bolt if one exists.  I hope they don't have to change the connecting rods ?  Now you got me worrying.  $$$

Chet...

If you do remove the dampening top springs don't discard them. When I had my springs built that was the only item they couldn't duplicate.

Rusty,

Unfortunately I think you may have ordered the wrong size.  Check the catalog or website.