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Messages - chetbrz

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General Discussion / Hand Cranking your Old Car.
« on: April 23, 2008, 10:10:51 AM »
Attached is an article from a back issue of “Skinned Knuckles Magazine”.  Jim Yergin made a copy and sent it to me. 

Tks Jim.

It found it very interesting so I thought that it was worth posting.



General Discussion / Re: George29 - Did you get the Hub off yet.
« on: April 22, 2008, 12:47:11 PM »
Here is the scoop on the Q/U hub size:  Doug you were right on…

When measuring threads there are two dimensions to consider.  The Minor or female thread size and the Major or male Tap size.

If you measure the diameter of the wheel hub it will measure 2.375 +- 5% or 2 & 3/8” Major Dimension
If you measure the tool itself or the female thread size it should measure 2.312 +- 5% or 2 & 5/16” Minor Dimension

Since screw size is always refereed to by the Major Dimension then the correct size for the 28Q to 30U hub puller is  2 & 3/8” with 16 threads per inch.

So if an eBay seller is measuring the distance accross the threads on the hub puller in question (Minor Dimension) he should be measuring 2 & 5/16” x 16 TPI


General Discussion / Re: George29 - Did you get the Hub off yet.
« on: April 21, 2008, 02:46:47 PM »
Definitely without a doubt 16 threads per inch. 

The size is slightly bigger then 2 & 1/4” maybe 2 & 5/16" or 2 & 3/8".   I don’t know where my dial calipers are or I could confirm the diameter for sure.  Maybe Doug on the POC board will confirm the exact size.

Sorry,  Chet…

General Discussion / Re: George29 - Did you get the Hub off yet.
« on: April 19, 2008, 07:56:48 AM »
HI Guys,
    Does anyone know which size and thread is required?  I have seen 2-1/4" with 16 threads or 18 or 20 on the threads... which is the one?

Chris "My wheels are stuck too" Osborne


I will bring my thread gauge home with me on Sunday.  If no one else gets back to you I’ll post the thread size on Sunday or Monday night.

PS… The one I found at Hershey had Ford embossed on it.  I have been told that they are the same as the Ford Model ‘A’.  It also has a nut to tighten it to the hub once you screw it on.  I think this is a good idea in that you get a tighter fit against a worn thread.  You could give the axle slap method a try in the mean while. 


General Discussion / Re: Satillite70 did you pick up your car yet ?
« on: April 18, 2008, 02:32:56 PM »
Nice car,  Congratulations. 

Just an FYI because I know you are working on your brakes.  The front wheels should come off without much effort unless the shoes are rusted to the rims.  The rear wheels are not as easy.  The hubs are on a tapered shaft and suffer from taper lock. 

If you go to the link below, this was a post I started on the POC Forum.  It has a lot of info on the subject.
Good Luck,  Chet…

General Discussion / Re: flywheel repair
« on: April 11, 2008, 12:00:17 PM »
Jim,   FYI..

The Plymouth Master Parts list shows the throw out bearing as the same for the Q, U, and 30-U up to engine # U-258836 after that it is the same as the PA and changes again for the PB.

The Pilot bushing is the same from Model Q to Model PB, 1928 to 1933.

The return spring is definitely between the pedal and the bell housing bracket.  Same as the brake pedal.


General Discussion / Re: flywheel repair
« on: April 11, 2008, 08:55:16 AM »

Jim,  If your 30 U looks a lot like the 37 then maybe it is different then the 29.  A picture would be a big help in understanding the inners.

I haven’t replaced the clutch in my 29 only in my 48P15.  I believe I purchased the parts for Andy Bernbaum in Connecticut.  With the 29 I had transmission problems and replaced the transmission, throw out bearing and the universal disks front & rear.  The NOS throw out bearing I had picked up on eBay.  I am not sure what the availability is for the pilot & throw out bearing for a 30 U.

The 29 Pictured below:

With the 29 it appears that the bell housing is the rear engine support. ???  Might make changing the clutch a bit more challenging then a contemporary car.  Actually in the 48 the bell housing is also the rear engine support.

Good Luck,  Chet…

General Discussion / Re: flywheel repair
« on: April 10, 2008, 06:30:15 AM »
thanks Chet.

Also I can't find what the throw-out bearing return spring hooks to on the transmission? 


If you have a 28-30 the spring is the same as the brake return spring and attaches to the same bracket side by side.  I don’t know about a P4.  I haven’t had the pleasure of crawling under one.


General Discussion / Satillite70 did you pick up your car yet ?
« on: April 09, 2008, 01:23:13 PM »

It’s been close to two weeks and I believe you said you would be picking up your new old car soon.  Maybe you will have it home for the up coming weekend.   Well in any event keep us posted. 


General Discussion / Re: flywheel repair
« on: April 09, 2008, 11:57:25 AM »

Flywheels are usually pretty meaty.  It is hard to tell how deep the grove is from your email but if you have it apart I would remove the Flywheel and take it to the machine shop.  If there is any danger in cutting it down the machinist will let you know.  Resurfacing a flywheel is usually pretty inexpensive.

I haven’t removed the flywheel from my 29 so I can’t offer any advice.   The 48 was pretty easy and it cost less then $40 bucks to cut down the flywheel.


PS… My advice is, if you are going to do any work in that area, resurface the flywheel and install a new clutch disk, pilot & throw out bearing, You should be able to have the pressure plate rebuilt.   My 2 cents.  After all.., you only want to do this once.

Thanks.  I had put a new replacement gas cap on, since my original one leaked a bit.  I'll put the old gas cap back on the gas tank and try that.


You may need to drain some of the fuel out of the Kingston pump, also the cap needs to be a vented cap or the leaky one will work.



I don’t have much experience with using the Kingston fuel pump but I did recently acquire one and I had taken it apart to refurbish it.  I was surprised to discover that it didn’t have any kind of check valve on the vacuum side which would shut down the system in the event of an overflow condition.  Maybe my unit is missing something or maybe it never had this safety feature.  

From what I can tell when the float rises, the door on the bottom of the upper tank opens to drain the acquired gas into the bottom tank where it could be gravity fed into the carburetor.   My assumption was that the design was in an equilibrium which prevented the unit from drawing more gas from the tank then the carburetor could use.   If this is the case then maybe the gas tank cap sealed the tank without providing venting.  The expansion of the gas from temperature change could cause too much gas to be deposited into the upper tank (because without proper venting this would be the only place the gas could go).  Just a theory.  I would be very interested in whatever you find out.



General Discussion / Re: Tightening wood wheels the old fashion way.
« on: March 21, 2008, 01:08:05 PM »

According to the article:

The Chair Lock formula was developed in the 50’s and is now in public domain.  The quick story is:, it is a mixture of chemicals with natural resin so that once the dried wood absorbs the mixture containing the resin, the fluid will dry up leaving the natural resin behind thus leaving the wood tight.

At some future point and in my spare time,?   I will be working on a respoking project for my wheels and this sounds like a good mixture to dip the wheels in after I am finished to expand the kiln dried hickory into a permanently tight position.  Of course since the hubs are hydraulically pressed into the new construction and the wood is kiln dried, everything is pretty tight to begin with and will only get better in time.  Maybe dipping the old wheels might relieve the necessity of redoing them.  The main problem right now is that Chair-Lock is sold in 2 & 3 oz bottles and I need to mix up a 2 to 3 gallon batch.  Currently buying it isn’t cost affective because I am not sure it will do me any good.  The article listed the ingredients so maybe a cauldron may be in my future.  However I might need to find an eye of Newt.

Theoretically it all sounds good.


General Discussion / Tightening wood wheels the old fashion way.
« on: March 20, 2008, 03:15:20 PM »
Jim Yergin recently sent me an article, which he ran across in the Skinned Knuckles Magazine, which talked about wooden automobile wheels.  What I found interesting was the section concerning fixing loose or squeaky spokes.   

The article implied that back in day when our cars were new it was recommended to wash them often so as to allow the wood wheels to swell and tighten, especially if you lived in a dry climate.  The urban legend was mentioned that if your spokes were loose it was best to park the car in a shallow stream for the night to swell the wood wheels, which would tighten the spokes.  Also a product called Chair-Lock was mentioned which is a chemical composition used to swell woods for the purpose of tightening doweled joins without the use of glue.

What say ye..,  Any comments or experiences.  ???  This seems to make sense to me.

General Discussion / Installed my Homemade Running Board.
« on: March 15, 2008, 03:29:53 PM »

Maybe not original but it looks A-OK and you can’t beat the price.


Link to the project…

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