28Q29U Plymouth Forum

General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: racertb on January 24, 2015, 08:20:28 PM

Title: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on January 24, 2015, 08:20:28 PM
All:

Starting a continuation thread with this regarding the timing issues I've been having.  I am attaching several photos and a couple videos of the distributor and the distributor base housing to get your thoughts on the appearance and function.  Other than a little play in the distributor shaft (see video) and the small shaft inside the housing (see video), they both look like they're in great shape and the play may be normal - but not sure on the "vertical" play of the distributor shaft.  Also, the gear inside the housing looks good as well.

So, if these pieces appear to be normal/good or not, please let me know your opinion.  I am assuming after my examination that they are both in good and functional shape and I'm going to have to get into the motor and inspect/replace the cam gear.

Please let me know your thoughts.

Ted

(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1824_zpsgs67eshj.jpg)[/URL]

(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1823_zpserzgslko.jpg)[/URL]

(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1822_zpsct4s7dai.jpg)[/URL]

(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1821_zpsba84x4qk.jpg)[/URL]

(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1819_zpstiboh9sk.jpg)[/URL]

(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1818_zpsbjsyaptb.jpg)[/URL]

(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1817_zps2fdtthvi.jpg)[/URL]

(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1815_zpsrgbqlekd.jpg)[/URL]

(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1813_zpsatzbccvz.jpg)[/URL]


Here are the videos:

http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0029_zps6db3mz19.mp4

http://vid947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/VIDEO0028_zpsplm7qqtp.mp4










Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: chetbrz on January 25, 2015, 08:48:06 AM
Questions:
(http://www.1948plymouth.info/SupportPages/images/IMAG1823_edit01.jpg)

Why is the locating collar split and if you remove the mounting gasket is the flange cracked ?

Why does the ring around the distributor appear to have two pins and a setscrew (or scroll pin) ?  This seems excessive or a previous repair ?

My engine doesn't have the original pot metal piece so have patience with the questions ?

Chet...
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: frankp on January 25, 2015, 10:51:33 AM
Rear view of my "spare," for what it's worth.  Interesting add on zerk makes you think this has been taken apart previously.

Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on January 25, 2015, 11:29:30 AM
Guys,

Thanks for looking.  I don't know if I have the answers.  This is the first time I ever had this off myself.  I took the close ups on purpose because I noticed the extra pins as well.  If/when it was repaired, I have no idea when it would have been.  Regardless, I don't think there is enough here to say this is the cause of the problem, do you?

I'm not moving forward just yet, that's why I wanted some of your opinions and expertise.  I emailed Jeff Burton of the POC a couple days ago, but haven't heard back from him yet.  Just wanted to start with this and get some thoughts.

Did you have a chance to see the two videos?  If so, is the play seem normal to you?

Thanks again...

Ted
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: frankp on January 25, 2015, 01:19:46 PM
Ted,

I did.  I think the play in the bracket shaft is excessive.  Coupled with maximum upward movement of distributor may allow momentary disengagement of gears thus changing the timing.  I don't have any tolerances for either shaft play.

frank
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on January 25, 2015, 06:10:50 PM
Thanks Frank...if I grab the small ring with the pins in it, it is a tad loose.  I can wiggle it a little between my fingers.  Also , as Chet suggested, the ring looks like it was repaired before.  The  "hollow" pin is holding the ring on the shaft.  If it was tighter, the ring would probably be tighter.  The other pins look like the remains of earlier pins and don't feel attached to the ring.  The play in the shaft might be able to be fixed with a very thin washer.

Chet - I pulled back the mounting gasket and it looks good underneath, no cracks, etc.

Ted
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: chetbrz on January 25, 2015, 07:28:26 PM
Ted,

With the distributor in the assembly how much end play is in the assembly drive and if you max out the end play in the distributor as well as the drive assembly can you get the unit to slip a tooth or bind ?  Any gear system should have some end play but it should not be excessive. 

Can you put a slotted screwdriver into the motor and check how much play there is in the drive assembly in the block. 

It's hard to tell if there is a problem without actually touching and feeling these parts.  How is the internal drive shaft in the assembly and the inner assembly drive gear.  My assumption is no chipped teeth ?

What is that ring being used for does it hold the drive key in place on the shaft ?  If you took the pin out what would be removed and what would the purpose  be to remove the pin ?. 

Just some food for thought.
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: ski on January 26, 2015, 12:59:08 AM
As mentioned, that grease fitting looks "custom".  Have you tried shooting it with heavy grease to see if it restricts some of that play?  If it stays running well longer that may have been the reason it was added.  Not a fix but you'll know the play is your problem and then you can deal with it.

ski
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on January 26, 2015, 09:43:34 PM
Ski - you could be right about the grease fitting taking up slack...not sure when that may have been added... The car has been in the family since '62, so not sure if my Dad knew about it or someone did it for him or if it was done before he found the car.

Chet - both the gears (distributor and shaft in housing look great).  I'll take another look at the play when the distributor is installed in the housing.  My main concern is the "ring" on the shaft that looks like a prior repair as you suggested.  It's also a tad loose.

I'll also check out the other end on the cam in the motor...

Ted
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on January 26, 2015, 10:03:34 PM
Frank:

On your spare housing, how much play is in the shaft when it is moved back and forth/in and out?  Is there some play or is it in there pretty solid?  I'm wondering if there should be no play at all and just spin/rotate.

Ted
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: frankp on January 26, 2015, 11:34:22 PM
Ted,

There is no play at all.  This may be due to the casting being "swollen" and the shaft does not turn freely.  It will turn with pliers.

frank
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on January 31, 2015, 05:47:24 PM
Frank:

I'm starting to think the play in the housing shaft might be an issue like you suggested.  After contacting Jeff Buton via email, he also suggested I concentrate on the housing and distributor alignment and check for sloppiness (or if it's too tight, which it is not) and while turning the housing shaft and distributor, see if it's sloppy and if gear slips. 

So I did this earlier today and took some time with it.  What I found was that if the slack is taken out of the shaft (I was pulling out on the shaft as if I added shims and got rid of the slack) the shaft with the distributor engaged and turned smoothly, again no excessive play.

I then did the same thing but this time I was pushing in (as if to take the slack and play out of it) on the shaft all the way while turning the distributor.   This time, the shaft would turn freely for about half to three quarters of a turn and then stop, as if locked up.  I had to pull out on the shaft to get the shaft and distributor to turn again. 

At this point, I feel like this COULD be an issue, if not the issue.  This play in the shaft and the play in the distributor shaft have me concerned, although I feel the housing shaft is the bigger problem.  I could add some thin shims to correct this and take up the slack, but want to make sure I wouldn't do too much and then somehow screw up the housing  itself.   I don't know how I could as long as the shaft turns freely.  But, who knows how much slack there should be?

A couple other things...both the distributor gear and housing shaft gear are good and are not slipping, they are on tight.  Also, when then housing shaft is pulled out to take up slack (and turns the distributor freely), you can look down in the housing at the gear and it appears perfectly centered on where it would align with the distributor gear.   When pushed in, the gear is ever so slightly off (pushed back) so it wouldn't be perfectly aligned with the distributor.

So, did I find the problem?  I have no idea, but these are my observations with the housing and distributor.

Ted

Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: chetbrz on February 01, 2015, 09:05:10 AM
Ted, 

All gears need some amount of play, it’s called backlash.

Backlash as it refers to gears is “the difference between the thickness of a gear tooth and the width of the space between teeth in the mating gear, designed to allow room for lubricants and expansion.  Backlash sometimes describes play or lost motion between loosely fitting machine parts.

What Jeff and others have been asking you to check is when the play in both the drive shaft and distributor are at their greatest distances simultaneously from each other.  Can you turn the drive assembly or distributor and get the gears to skip a tooth. ?

When you answer this question you can eliminate all doubt as to what your problem is.  We can’t make that call in an email or posted message.   BTW.., What can increase backlash is worn gear shafts or oblonged bearings or shaft pivot holes.
 
Chet…
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: frankp on February 01, 2015, 09:24:40 AM
Ted,

Chet has given excellent insight, as usual.  If you haven't already, taking off the end cap may help you see how these gears mesh with the shafts in different positions.  Also, the shaft in the bracket might have to be removed to determine exactly what the situation is.  Is there internal wear that needs shimming, for instance?

frank
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on February 01, 2015, 02:34:21 PM
Guys, I know and understand the concept of backlash and that things can't be so tight that they'll bind.  My main question with what I found, along with the photos and videos previously posted, is it showing too much play?  It seems too much to me, but I'm not 100% sure.

I can take off the end cap of the housing (what is the best way to do this without damaging the housing?) to see how the gears mesh together...for what it's worth, the only play in the housing shaft/drive is the "in and out" play like in the video.  There is no side to side or horizontal play.   There is also a little vertical play in the distributor, also in one of the videos.

I really couldn't get the distributor to slip, per se, but it did lock up as described above when the shaft was pushed in and turned.  Again, when I took up slack in the drive when pulling it out and turning, the distributor turned freely.

I do appreciate the input...I just want to make sure these pieces are good before I go any further into the motor.  If these pieces are the issue then that's what I need to know. 

If the amount of play showing is what it should be and normal, then it must be something else.

I looked at the slot on the end of the cam where the drive engages, but I don't see anything visibly wrong with it.

Ted

Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: chetbrz on February 01, 2015, 03:15:29 PM
Guys, I know and understand the concept of backlash and that things can't be so tight that they'll bind.  My main question with what I found, along with the photos and videos previously posted, is it showing too much play?  It seems too much to me, but I'm not 100% sure.

Ted

Ted,

No one is ever 100% sure.  If it seems like the assembly has to much play and you can do something to lessen it then do try it and see if it helps.  Troubleshooting a problem is the same as solving a mystery and this is done by eliminating suspects.  Your distributor assembly is just one suspect.   If the assembly is not capable of skipping a tooth and going out of time than you need to move on to your next logical suspect.  I think the problem you are having is you can't seem to definitively say whether the assembly is good or bad.  Without that determination you can't move forward in the troubleshooting process.  I don't believe anyone can remotely make that determination for you. 

Fix what appears to be a problem, after all even if it isn't causing a problem making something a little better is never a bad thing.  Eliminating a suspect is always good.

Chet...
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: frankp on February 01, 2015, 04:35:22 PM
Ted,

Try a thin, flat blade screwdriver to pry off the cap.  Seems to me, if you have discovered a position where these gears "lock," it should be corrected.  Obviously, just opinion.

My reasoning why this is not a camshaft gear issue:  If the crankshaft and camshaft gears are not in their correct alignment, both valves for a given piston will not be closed when the piston reaches TDC.  I know these engines are very forgiving, but my opinion is, even if it were to start,  it would run rough and have no power.  Perhaps like running with spark advanced continuously.  Further, if after out of time, it may be corrected by re-positioning the distributor, then this assembly is suspect.  (The neck bone is connected to the thigh bone, but not directly.)  Shooting holes in my reasoning is entirely acceptable.

frank
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on February 01, 2015, 06:08:00 PM
Thanks guys, got the end cap off...very easy... should have tried before I asked :)

One thing I did this time to simulate the operation more realistically was to install the advance/retard bracket on the housing and then put the distributor in. Now, I'm not experiencing the lock up when I was turning the shaft drive while pushing it in.  The drive turns freely whether I'm pushing it in or pulling out on it.  The play is still there, however, just no lock up or binding.

I did observe the two gears turning together and there is a little play, but it's hard to say if that's the issue.   I made a video and will post tonight or tomorrow.

Frank, I agree with you and some others.  I really don't think it could be the cam gear if I can keep getting the car to start and keep it running if at least for a while.

Now, time to go watch the Superbowl...
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: Crazydave on February 07, 2015, 10:40:52 PM
I measured the mirrored spare believed to be from a 28. They are of the same design and operate the exact same way, tolerances should be the same. I pushed the mounting surface tight against my workbench, then pulled the shaft out and used a straight edge to mark. Then pushed it in, marked again, then measured. It came out to about 1/32nd of an inch. Very little movement. I also took pictures of how far the gear traveled in the housing, visually it reflected the measurement and collar movement. This base turns freely and does not have the weathered damage, I have seen on others. What does the inside of the housing look like? How far does the drive gear walk when you are pushing and pulling the shaft? I would take the shaft out and make sure the roll pin is holding it where it needs to be. See my attached pictures, hope it helps.
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr28/crazydave4455/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150207_203802.jpg) (http://s466.photobucket.com/user/crazydave4455/media/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150207_203802.jpg.html)
Pulled tight out
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr28/crazydave4455/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150207_203044.jpg) (http://s466.photobucket.com/user/crazydave4455/media/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150207_203044.jpg.html)
Pushed tight in. If you look close ypu can see the difference.
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr28/crazydave4455/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150207_203032.jpg) (http://s466.photobucket.com/user/crazydave4455/media/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150207_203032.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on February 08, 2015, 02:54:07 PM
Dave:

I attached some photos and a couple videos earlier.  To answer your question, the back and forth play while moving the drive is about 1/16".  If I were to pull out on the drive to take up the slack and put a shim between the housing and retaining collar, the gear lines up perfectly like in your photos.  Without the shim, I can visualize the drive moving back and forth.   By taking up the slack with the shim, the gear will be perpendicular to the distributor gear.   The drive still turns freely.  The distributor also has some axial/vertical play of about 1/16" as well.  I'm thinking of not touching the distributor at this point.

On a side note, it was mentioned earlier on that it looks like my housing was once repaired or modified.  The housing itself is good, but I just noticed that someone added a brass or bronze sleeve where the drive itself rotates.  A zerk fitting for grease was also added to the housing right where the drive is. I think some added grease will also take up some slack.

Ted

O
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: chetbrz on February 08, 2015, 07:07:10 PM

On a side note, it was mentioned earlier on that it looks like my housing was once repaired or modified.  The housing itself is good, but I just noticed that someone added a brass or bronze sleeve where the drive itself rotates.  A zerk fitting for grease was also added to the housing right where the drive is. I think some added grease will also take up some slack.

Ted,

It sounds to me that the brass sleeve was installed to fix an oblonged drive shaft hole.  Brass was probably used so as not to cause anymore wear to the steal drive shaft. The brass sleeve has probably gone the way of the original drive hole.   May be time to check the concentricity of the hole the drive shaft turns in.   Is the shaft removable without damaging the assembly ?

Chet...
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on February 08, 2015, 07:41:36 PM
Chet,

I've had the shaft out with no problem and it looks fine to the naked eye.  The sleeve looks good too.  It all fits together nicely and turns freely without any other movement other than the play I mentioned before.  I shot some grease in the zerk fitting and the drive turns silky smooth.  I put a "machine bearing" on it - just a thin washer that fits around the drive between the retaining collar and housing - that takes up 95% of the slack.  I'm guessing with that and the grease that I've got it dialed in enough to give it a go.  Again, going to hold off on the slight play of the distributor for now.

I might wait to see what Dave's findings are first with his aluminum drive; also thinking about calling Tom at Antique Auto Parts Cellar and ask him about tolerances since he apparently makes a brass replacement housing with the drive. 

I can only hope that I am on the right track... either way, this is definitely a learning experience :)

Ted
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: 29plycoop on February 10, 2015, 01:11:54 AM
Keep in mind the two gears should run together at the center of both gears. Any shims added should be to keep this alignment. If there is truly 1/16 end play that should be reduced to about .010 with very little side play between the gears. The side play of both gears can be checked by turning the rotor back and forth with light pressure. A small amount is OK. Any large amount will have to be adjusted. Hope this helps. - Rich
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: Crazydave on February 12, 2015, 12:12:31 PM

I might wait to see what Dave's findings are first with his aluminum drive; also thinking about calling Tom at Antique Auto Parts Cellar and ask him about tolerances since he apparently makes a brass replacement housing with the drive. 

I can only hope that I am on the right track... either way, this is definitely a learning experience :)

Ted

Ted,

The aluminum housing was built by referencing the 28 housing I posted pictures of and Franks 29 spare. It will be as tight, or tighter as the pictures I posted above. It how ever is not perfect, and needs a few tweaks to make it right.  I have not any issues, but run time has been limited. I will plan on taking it apart soon and checking for wear inside. 
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on February 12, 2015, 07:38:49 PM
Thanks Dave, just let me know when you can.   I appreciate your help.

Ted
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: Crazydave on February 20, 2015, 01:35:21 PM
When I first started hunting for parts and information I booked marked a page with information about someone who makes reproductions. (Antique Auto Parts Cellar)

I have now noticed it was Rich (29plycoop) who posted the info on smokstak (Time stamp April 2009)

Rich have you bought one of their reproductions? And if so do you have any pictures of it?
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: 29plycoop on February 22, 2015, 06:03:30 PM
I purchased a set of gears for my distributor drive from Antique Auto Parts.  I reproduced the distributor housing out of aluminum and it worked very well. Just a note, the gears they sell must be installed as a set as they are not the exact same grind as the originals, but work very well. They do sell the complete housing and gears and have heard they also work very well. That is why they sell the housing and gears as an assembly so they have the right backlash. Good luck - Rich
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: Crazydave on February 25, 2015, 08:36:18 PM
Ted,

I have little vertical play in my distributor, maybe 1/32nd. In the attached pictures I tired to snap the gap.

All the way down
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr28/crazydave4455/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150225_182809.jpg) (http://s466.photobucket.com/user/crazydave4455/media/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150225_182809.jpg.html)

All the way up
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr28/crazydave4455/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150225_182758.jpg) (http://s466.photobucket.com/user/crazydave4455/media/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150225_182758.jpg.html)

My Housing
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr28/crazydave4455/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150225_183023.jpg) (http://s466.photobucket.com/user/crazydave4455/media/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150225_183023.jpg.html)
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr28/crazydave4455/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150225_183105.jpg) (http://s466.photobucket.com/user/crazydave4455/media/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150225_183105.jpg.html)
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr28/crazydave4455/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150221_154052.jpg) (http://s466.photobucket.com/user/crazydave4455/media/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150221_154052.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: Crazydave on February 25, 2015, 08:41:28 PM
Here I have some pictures of the cam drive, and shaft driven by it. Notice the offset on both.
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr28/crazydave4455/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150221_154713.jpg) (http://s466.photobucket.com/user/crazydave4455/media/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150221_154713.jpg.html)
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr28/crazydave4455/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150221_154528.jpg) (http://s466.photobucket.com/user/crazydave4455/media/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150221_154528.jpg.html)

(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr28/crazydave4455/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150221_151606.jpg) (http://s466.photobucket.com/user/crazydave4455/media/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150221_151606.jpg.html)
(http://i466.photobucket.com/albums/rr28/crazydave4455/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150221_151541.jpg) (http://s466.photobucket.com/user/crazydave4455/media/1929%20Plymouth%20U/20150221_151541.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on February 25, 2015, 09:12:48 PM
Thank you Dave!  This will be a great guide
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: Crazydave on February 25, 2015, 09:45:07 PM
Good luck, we will be waiting for a cruising video.
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: chetbrz on February 26, 2015, 12:17:20 PM
Here I have some pictures of the cam drive, and shaft driven by it. Notice the offset on both.

Hi Dave,

Wow !!!  It is very interesting that this offset was manufactured originally.  I guess the intention was to ensure only one installation configuration for the gear/distributor setup.  This offset would make it impossible to install the assembly/distributor 180 degrees out.  Thanks for the pictures very cool.

Chet...
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on February 26, 2015, 05:42:06 PM
I will post a video once I get her going...it will either be of me driving or video taping her on the back of a flat bed...I hope not the latter :)

I wasn't going to doing anything with the distributor yet and just see what happens by making the adjustment on the distributor drive in the housing.  But after seeing the lack of play in Dave's (which is like the spare '28 distributor I have), I may want to shim it up some as well.

I'll sleep on it...

Ted
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on February 27, 2015, 10:22:12 AM
Just adding a few more photos of the base with two shims added and installed on the motor.  Everything is lubed up.  I may install distributor and start up this weekend, or shim the distributor and then install.

(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1933_zps1kax4aq9.jpg) (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/racertb/media/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1933_zps1kax4aq9.jpg.html)

(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1932_zpsizoj0irg.jpg) (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/racertb/media/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1932_zpsizoj0irg.jpg.html)


(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1931_zpsykfe3xjb.jpg) (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/racertb/media/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1931_zpsykfe3xjb.jpg.html)


(http://i947.photobucket.com/albums/ad320/racertb/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1936_zpsea5q3568.jpg) (http://s947.photobucket.com/user/racertb/media/Car%20Stuff/IMAG1936_zpsea5q3568.jpg.html)




Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on March 16, 2015, 09:21:14 PM
Latest update.  Took a break from the car for a couple weeks, but got her timed and running today (on vacation this week).   Well, she ran for a few minutes until I put a small load on her.  Basically just reved her up a few times and she slipped out of time and shut down as she did in the past.  The rotor was in the wrong position. 

The only thing I did different was to take up the slack in the distributor drive; I did not do anything to the distributor yet. I did this on purpose to see if the drive would fix the problem.  So now, I've removed the distributor and i am going to replace the gear with a new gear I have, as well as shim it up a little to take up some of the vertical slack that I've mentioned before.  I hope this will fix things, otherwise I'll be at a loss and will be out of ideas.
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: frankp on March 17, 2015, 10:28:28 AM
Ted,

Can't imagine how frustrated you must be.  Ready for another red herring?  Have you disassembled the distributor down to removing the weights and top end of the shaft?  Maybe where the shafts mate is slipping??  For the record, I've never done this, but someone here probably has and may provide helpful hints.

frank
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on March 17, 2015, 02:05:26 PM
Frank, haven't disassembled the distributor, but I'm willing to try anything at this point.  If there are any tips or tricks from anyone, I'd like to know.  I'm convinced that I'm close to the problem and that this can't be an internal issue.  I say this because I can time and start the car every time.

Ted
Title: Re: Time to Get Into the Motor - Part 2 (Update)
Post by: racertb on March 17, 2015, 06:27:18 PM
Just disassembled my spare '28 distributor for "practice" and it was very easy.  Except for the reversed gear and grease cup, I believe it's identical to the '29 distributor.  I may pull apart the '29 to inspect, but I might try it first with the new gear and shims.  The vertical play/clearance is .015 now, which is much better than before but not too tight.  If this doesn't work, maybe then I'll pull the distributor apart.  Not sure what else to do after this!