Hello,

  What should the Schrader valves look like on a 1930 Plymouth 30U with wire wheels?  The attached photo is what I have on there currently.  Is this correct, or should it be something slightly more modern, but not what we have today?  Any knowledge or photos of what is known to be correct are greatly appreciated!  -Chris

Quote from: Articifer Tom on April 06, 2024, 11:07:41 AMYou cannot view this attachment.
Pedal on mine just loosen could not take out . Clutch over and angle up .

Thanks, good photo.  Looks like this is going to be a huge job for me.

Quote from: Touring29 on April 05, 2024, 01:23:37 PMOK first of all I have a 29 not a 30 but I suspect the wheel is held the same way as our car had a wheel that looks like yours. It is not splined but had a keyway in the wheel hub and a key on the shaft. I haven't removed the later wheel from the shaft because I replaced the whole assembly. I have two more 29 steering assemblies and I pulled the wheel off both of them. The shaft has a taper and the wheel really gets hard to pull off. I put the puller on it and tightened it more & more while tapping on the end of the puller. Be sure to have the nut on so the threads won't be damaged. The first one was hard to get off but finally came. The second one was even harder. I bent my homemade puller and had to beef it up and it was starting to bend again when it finally came off.

 As you have probably figured out there is no way to pull the motor without the bell housing unless the flywheel is removed. If you can't get the wheel off pull the transmission, clutch & brake pedals, clutch fork, clutch and flywheel and you can leave the bellhousing in the car.

Thank you!  This is very helpful.  I can't get the wheel off with the tools I have now.  I will try removing the trans, clutch/brake pedals, fork, clutch and flywheel, as most of that would have to come out anyway if I decided to remove the whole works.

All,
  Is there a trick to getting the steering wheel off?  I made a setup just like Tom's where I drilled two holes in the steering wheel and I'm trying to use a steering wheel puller to pull it off.  I tried removing it with a large crescent wrench on the puller, but this will just stop where I can't pull on it anymore.  Some questions for the group:

1) is the 1930 30U steering wheel on a spline, or is there something else in there?

2) Is removal just a matter of brute force and torque?  Since the steering wheel must be held in place while using the steering wheel puller, I'm afraid of breaking the steering wheel.  I can simply add a pipe extension onto the wrench to get more torque, but what will I end up breaking if this thing doesn't come loose?

3) Tom, how much force and what kind or wrench/tool did you use to twist the nut on the steering wheel puller?

Thanks,
-Chris

Quote from: Articifer Tom on April 04, 2024, 09:54:35 PMSorry , to many meds I guess  . The trans was slid off the bell housing so spline shaft thur clutch can be removed. However to remove trans, drive shaft must come off one end . Hence off-ed (removed) the universal joint.

Thanks Tom. This makes sense now. Looks like I have a lot of work to do!

Regards,
Chris

Quote from: Articifer Tom on April 04, 2024, 11:14:02 AMCORRECTION !!!! I miss spoke on trans You still have to remove from bell housing to clear spline shaft . In my case doing on floor got cheap trans jack from Harbor and off-ed one shaft universal and slide back .

Tom, I don't fully understand your reply, it seems to be missing some words.  Remove what from the bell housing to clear spline shaft?  The drive shaft?  What does "off-ed one shaft universal" mean?  Does this mean remove one of the universal joints from the drive shaft and slide the drive shaft back to remove the spline shaft?

Tom, thanks, I don't need the trans out, so I'll see if I can just leave it in, then.

Thanks for the reply!  My other problem is that I took off the nut on the steering wheel, but the steering wheel won't budge.  Is there something I'm missing on that, or do I just need to use a little more force removing it from the steering column?

Hello,
  I need to remove my engine for a redo of some kind, but it's a lot more work than I thought.  My current work is trying to remove the steering column and maybe the steering box, so I can get clearance to remove the engine, since it has those wide legs on it in the back and won't clear the steering column.

  I've removed the clum switch, hardware, and the throttle and headlight levers from the top of the steering wheel.  I've also unscrewed the steering column to the point where I can move it by hand now, but it won't come free from the steering box.  Obviously, there are gears in there, but I'm not sure what to do to remove the steering column.  I wanted to ask the group before I start taking the steering box apart and/or do any damage, in order to try to figure this out.

Thanks for any help!  -Chris

Ski,
   Very sorry, still didn't get any notifications from new responses, I had the wrong setup it looks like. I usually check this site about once a month at current time. I think I have it working now.  Feel free to PM if I don't respond in a timely manner; I'm still here.

   To answer your question, I am about 30 miles south of DC.  I'd be willing to travel up to 30 miles to meet your friend, if that would make it easier, assuming you still need the wheel and your friend comes this way again.

-Chris

Yes, still have the wheel.  Sorry for the delay in responding, I'm not getting notifications for some reason.

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For Sale- 1929-32 4-Cyl Plymouth Crankshaft.  Asking $80.  Also 1930-32 Plymouth Wire wheel.  From a 1930 30U; not exactly sure if it fits the other 4-cyl years, but it probably does. Diameter is 19".  Takes 4.75" x 19" tire.  Asking $45.  Will not ship the crankshaft, it is too heavy, but can deliver to most of the Carlisle, PA shows, or can possibly deliver within about 125 miles of Washington D.C.  Will ship the wheel, please send a zip code for a shipping quote.  I am located in northern Virginia.

If interested, feel free to make me an offer, want these to go to a good home and avoid the scrap yard, but they need to go, I cannot use them and they are taking up space.

I have an extra brass cup, which is very straight, but unfortunately has two splits in it, one is 1 1/2 inches long and the other is about 1/2 an inch long.  Reminds me a little of our Liberty Bell.  If yours is completely unusable and if you can't find another one, maybe this can be silver soldered, as Russ mentions.  Let me know if you end up being interested.

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I think that there were a few folks staying away because of COVID issues, but more importantly, most, if not all of our international friends were not in attendance, which will keep attendance lower, especially Canada.  There were a few Ply parts, but mostly common things like radiator caps.  I'm amazed at the great rare Ply parts I've found at Hershey, just over the last 5 years.