Thanks for that Ian. I'll also keep the numbers on file.

Gary S

Just had alook at the previous thread in this forum 're toolkits" 2010. If the tools in the photos are correct they are still only 1/2 the tool kit that came with the Q.

My spanner for removing the wheel hub covers and I believe it also fits the oil drain plug is different to the one in the picture. I post a photo of it in a few days.

Gary S

I found a couple of pictures from 2007 on the web. They claim to be the toolkit for a Plymouth Q. Looks like they could be, but not sure if they are as per the list in the manual. Hope the photos are of some help.

regards
Gary S

I'll look forward to seeing a picture of it on the road

Gary S

Looks like you now have a lot of spare parts. Your coupe looks good. Is it finished?

Gary S

Hi Ian,
Seeing Chet's photos made me remember that I was going to take a couple of photos for you. The right hand drive set up for the hand throttle control is a lot simpler than our LH drive friends. Mine is just one rod with a slight bend to clear my drip tray and choke lever.  The connection at the top where the rod connects to the carby is free to slide so the foot accelerator pedal can operate freely regardless of what position the hand throttle is in without changing the hand setting. The first two photos show the overall view of the rod and linkage. The next two show the top where it connects to the carby and then wher it connects to the steering column.
Hope this is some help to you.

Hi Ian,

I'll try and take some photos tonight.
It might be easier if you drop in one night on your way home from work. We could mock up some patterns in soft wire to give you something to work with when you get home. Mine worked differently when I replaced the accelerator spring and put another spring under the pedal. I now have to hold the steering wheel lever in place when I increase the revs. When I let go it returns to its idle position. I'm not sure how it should work.

Gary S

Hi Ian,

Sounds like you have solved the problem and saved yourself a cool 350 bucks. Well done!
From the photo the milling machine, looks like it is against the wall of a new shed. Have you finally got your big shed up?
You missed a good night on Friday.
Regards

Gary S

Hi Ian,

Glad you're back on the road. Not surprised you got bogged after all the rain we had leading up to the weekend, particularly as some people (no names) choose to live in the middle of no where It would of made the Q think it was back in the 20's. glad you got out it out of the mud.
I too sorted out my continual high reving issue with the carby. A bit of brute force works wonders. Took it out to Mornington for a run. Slight tuning issue to sort out but otherwise running well.

Gary S

Thanks for all you suggestions. I haven't installed the new cable yet but hope to get back to it this weekend. will let all know what I end up doing.

Gary S

Hi all,

I've had problems ever since I've owned the Q with oil occasionally dripping from the speedo cable into the cabin. After the wife complained of ruined shoes due to the oil, I solved it by just wrapping the cable with rags and replacing them every 6 months or so.
I have just had the cable remade as the keyed pin came away from the cabin end of the inner cable. On inspection the inner and outer cable were very worn in several places, so rather than just repairing the loose end I had a new cable made using NOS inner and outer cable and my old fittings on the ends.
I thought maybe when the new cable assembly was made there would be a seal that stops the oil tracking up the cable but there isn't.
My questions are:
1/. Should there be an oil seal of some description at the gear box end of the cable?
2/. Was the probable cause of the oil tracking up the old cable too much oil in the gearbox?
3/. Should the new cable be lubricated with a light or heavy oil prior to fitting?

Thanks
Gary S

Thanks for the replys.
I have already made a one piece gasket from modern materials and installed it. I haven't started the engine yet as I have had the Vactank and carby off the car to rebuild them. They will be back on the car this weekend.
I had two reasons for asking, the first is that I that I thought if the locating rings that hold the copper gasket ring were in place it might help align the manifolds and the second was just for originality purposes.
Reading some of the T model ford forums (they have a similar set up, but slightly smaller ring size) a lot of the owners seem to think the rings give a better seal.

Regards

Gary S

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the replys. Obviously the rings are not just locator rings as I thought. No wonder the manifolds were leaking.
Can someone please do a bit of a sketch to show me where the ring and the spacer tube (that Ian mentioned) fit between the block and the manifold.
Does anyone know if any company reproduces them?
Regards
Gary S

I removed my exhaust and inlet manifolds to replace the leaking gaskets. On removal I found that the four metal rings that should be positioned between the engine block and manifolds are missing. Can someone please give me the dimensions of these rings so I can turn them up on a friends lathe. I wasn't sure how muck clearance they should have. Also are they made from steel or copper?

Gary S

Thanks Chetbrz,

I also would like to wish all a Very Merry Christmas as well as a Safe and Happy New Year from Australia.

AussieQ