Perhaps we can move this forum to another site? Maybe a Chrysler site or the AACA forum?

Any ideas?
 

The neoprene seal is a split seal the military used on the six cylinders, but to use it properly, the opening must be modified by a machine shop. Recommend sticking with the rope seal.

There are two sizes of rope seals that were used, as well as a cork seal.

If you think your new rope seal is too thick, check with Felpro, Napa, or Then & Now Automotive and ask for the smaller diameter one.

Although you can replace the rope seal without removing the pan, and lowering the rear bearing cap, it is a challenge. The trick is to allow a little bit of rope to stick out on both sides, so when you install the lower half the ends mush up against each other.

There is an old tool used to install the upper half ( I think I may have one) but never tried using it.

Sad to see this forum is going away at the end of this year.

We moved to the Birmingham Alabama area to be closer to our oldest daughter. We live on top of a hill with a steep drive. My gas tank gauge leaked every time I drive up the hill, so have been trying to seal it better. I have found a supplier of vitriol gasket material that is impervious to gas. I am trying that with some fuel resistant Permatex MotoSeal gasket maker and a newer product Permatex Permashield gasket dressing.

My original tank had a long neck supporting the gas gauge and leaking was not a problem, but I had to replace that tank many years ago.

Anyone else have this issue and solved it?

Thanks!!

Our local AACA club sponsored a special Southeastern meet this past October.  I showed my 1929 Plymouth U 4 door sedan in the Driver Participation category.

here are a few pictures The plaque includes a placard from when it was last shown at an AACA meet, in 1981!  (I was overseas in the Army and my uncle took my car to the show ion Orlando Florida, near my parents' home.

There were a few other Plymouths in the show - including a 1934 PE.  I should have taken pictures of them too. 

Chet,
I agree, and will try it with copper.
I had purchased a stainless steel alloy line that was supposed to be easy to bend, but I think it is still too stiff. Not sure what was done originally.

John

Does anyone know how the line from the Kingston vacuum fuel pump to the carb was shaped?  I put in a stainless steel line with a loop in it to allow for some vibration, but the vibration still caused the fitting on the fuel pump to loosen. I have used a modern flexible fuel line successfully for years, but I know that was not used originally, but that a rigid metal line was used.  Given that the engine vibrates some, how was that line shaped and connected to prevent the firings from getting loose?

This handle came off a windshield bracket exactly like the one on my 1929 Plymouth 4Door, but it has a different design on the handle.  It has the same 3/8 inch square drive.  I understand there was a delux trim line Plymouth, but have no information on that.

Can anyone identify the year, make and model of the car this handle likely came off of?

Thanks,

John Fain

I have an extra, not in the best shape, but I have used it in the past.  Can send you a picture. Very hard to find a nice one. I do not have the air cleaner.

John Fain

JohnRFain@gmail.com

I have tried to respond to everyone. I apologize for the late responses. We moved and am just now getting settled in.

Please email me directly if you need pictures of anything you are interested, as I have difficulty attaching pictures here.

John

JohnRFain@gmail.com
334-718-6624
Trussville, Alabama

I do. The master cylinder needs to be overhauled and rebuilt.  White Post Restorations restored one for me a few years back. They use brass sleeves. There are other companies that can restore using stainless steel sleeves.

I still have the hubcaps.  They are reproductions and have some imperfections. They are heavier than the originals because these are cast from marine grade aluminum. These are $170 each unpolished, which was my cost to have them made. I had to order a minimum of 16 to have them cast.

Hopefully the holes to bolt onto the Spokes are the same.  The Master Parts book lists several different part numbers.

BTW - 30Us apparently have an inspection hole and cover.  Would be nice to have had that in the earlier models.

Looking for a drum for a 20 inch rear wood spoked wheel for 1929 Plymouth.  Drum I have is badly scored.

John

Thanks guys!  So far it seems the USPS is best price, but still very pricy.  Need to ship a 20 inch rim, and maybe a clutch!

20 amp