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Messages - ski

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1
General Discussion / Re: Wire Wheels from a '31/'32
« on: October 17, 2016, 10:58:59 PM »
Here's the inside of the puller.  It's needs to thread on about 5/8" to bottom out. I'm just putting this stuff up since I mentioned using it and I know others may have questions about removing either type of rear hub from the axle.

2
General Discussion / Re: Wire Wheels from a '31/'32
« on: October 17, 2016, 10:46:29 PM »
Second picture of the fourth group is a 29 Plymouth wheel on a 29 Plymouth rear hub mounted on my 29 roller. The lug nuts, studs and spacers that I used came from a local aftermarket wheel shop and seem to work great if you don't have originals.  I got a couple drums that had newer studs weld into the drums but this route is cleaner, easier and does not alter any original parts.  I should also mention that I have one hub that I know to be original 29 Plymouth and it is identical to the ones I have that I am 99% sure are from a 31 Plymouth.


3
General Discussion / Re: Wire Wheels from a '31/'32
« on: October 17, 2016, 10:35:45 PM »
Okay here's the pictures of the hub "puller" .  The one I use is beaten and battered. That's the way I got it. I have only removed four rear hubs and none of them would have required this much beating. I suspect this one was used improperly. The way I understand to use it is:

1. remove nut AND washer.
2. screw it on until it BOTTOMS out on the end of axle shaft.
3. Jack the opposite rear wheel off the ground and block well.
4. Hit the "puller" hard and squarely with a small sledge.

If you leave the opposite wheel on the ground the tapered axle has no place to back out once the  hammer blow pushes all the end play tight. Or at least it has to overcome the friction of the cars weight, requiring a mighty blow for sure.  I think that's what happened with this one. There's a picture of a new one as well.  They used to be on ebay a lot.   I think I'll hit the used one with a grinder.

4
General Discussion / Re: Wire Wheels from a '31/'32
« on: October 17, 2016, 09:30:34 PM »
Last one for now.  This is a Mopar B body drum (slightly modified).  The one before is a re-drilled trailer hub with a ford wheel. There are trailer hubs available with the odd size bearings on these cars. These are on a hulk roller just to move it around. I'm pretty sure the front hubs I have are from a 1931 Plymouth or Dodge. The wheels on the Dodge are bigger I think but the hub is the same. I'll get the picture of the axle whacker in a bit.

5
General Discussion / Re: Wire Wheels from a '31/'32
« on: October 17, 2016, 09:23:56 PM »
Fourth four

6
General Discussion / Re: Wire Wheels from a '31/'32
« on: October 17, 2016, 09:22:46 PM »
Third four

7
General Discussion / Re: Wire Wheels from a '31/'32
« on: October 17, 2016, 09:21:42 PM »
Second four

8
General Discussion / Re: Wire Wheels from a '31/'32
« on: October 17, 2016, 09:20:23 PM »
I was mistaken about the drums being the same.  My memory has taken some hits. The working surface and dimensions are the same but putting a wire spoke drum on a wood spoke hub and vice-versa is not an option.  Even though the braking surface ends up in the same place in relation to the car when bolted up to their respective hubs, you can see from the side by side shot that the mating profile is concave not flat.  The inner and outer bearings of each style hub are in the same place relative to the braking surface of the drum which allows replacing the whole assembly as a unit via the spindle nut or axle bolt.  The rear hub usually needs a puller or a device like in the last picture. I call it an axle whacker.  Looks like I'll have to post in groups of four.

9
General Discussion / Re: Wire Wheels from a '31/'32
« on: October 14, 2016, 02:48:30 AM »
I haven't forgot but I've been real busy this week. I will get them up by this weekend.

10
General Discussion / Re: Wire Wheels from a '31/'32
« on: October 09, 2016, 08:56:56 PM »
I have a wire wheel on my car in place of a wood spoke one right now. I obtained a set of hubs for the wire wheels from one location and the wheels from another. To change remove spindle nut on front end and remove the whole wood spoke hub/drum/wheel/ bearing assembly as a unit. Then install the whole wire spoke wheel hub/drum/wheel/bearing assembly as a unit. I had to adjust my brakes a bit on that wheel because of the "new" drum. The drums and bearings are the same. Drums could be used from one to the other but new holes would have to be drilled  You can take the wire wheel off with the five lug nuts once its on but changing the whole works is just the one spindle nut. Same thing on the rear.  Just remove the axle nut. (and get a puller or whacker)  Eventually I want to be able to switch between the two easily. I'm pretty sure the 31 hubs are the same. I'll try to get you some pictures.

11
General Discussion / Re: 29 Vin number
« on: September 08, 2016, 09:55:47 PM »
Mine is also titled by the engine number however the same number is stamped into my frame rail behind the drivers side front wheel.  Other folks have posted that their cars are titled by engine number as well. Does your frame have this stamping?

ski

12
Looks great!

13
General Discussion / Re: Fuel pump pressure
« on: May 21, 2016, 04:07:35 PM »
I've had the same issues with every regulator I've used.  Even though they are advertised to be adjustable from 1-6 psi the never get below 2 or 3 psi.  I installed a cheapo round dial type regulator I found at a yard sale in line with the other regulator and it seems to have lessened the overflow leakage.  It shows 1-1.5 psi with a pressure gage.  It's still far from ideal but much better.


14
Things you are looking for. / Re: Wire wheel
« on: April 10, 2016, 04:58:21 PM »
6 hole? 

15
It's basically a buy it now for 16.5k the way he has the auction set up with no reserve...........unless more than one person thinks it's worth that much.

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