Glenn, I think I have one like that, or I did at one point, not sure what it was for.

Gary

Glenn, I like your idea of removing the face of the cap and repairing it or replacing it. Probably a great way to repair them. Just carefully cut around the outside, do the repair and reweld it back together. File it down and buff it up and your ready to go.

If you want, I have a set of four of the number 2 caps that I can part with. Just send me an email at chiefgr@hotmail.com and I will send you pictures of the caps, and we can discuss price.

Gary

I will try to shed some light on the questions of hub caps according to what I read in my parts book.

The number 1 in the picture should be for the Q and U (up to GP-725-H).

The number 2 in the picture should be for the U (after GP-725-H) and the 30-U (up to 1558573).

The number 3 in the picture should be for the 30-U after 1558573 and the PA.

The number 4 in the picture is used on the rear axle, when you use the Hub Cover, on the 30-U after 1558573 or the PA.

I hope this answers some of the questions people might have about Hub Caps.

Gary

What is all that white stuff. All we have here in the Willamette Valley (Portland, OR) is brown, yea mud. We normally get 4.51 inches of rain in March, well so far we have gotten 6.2 inches. Just a little to wet to plow.

Gary

Delays - Delays - Delays.

Had some fellows from the Plymouth club out Saturday. but, as luck would have it the suppiers that wer supposed to deliver didn't. NAPA was supposed to have my cleaned and surfaced head back first thing Saturday morning. Didn't perform. Automotive Friction was supposed to have my water pump rebuilt, but didn't get it that Friday. Still waiting for calls from both outfits.

Anyway we did get some donuts and coffee put away and helped some of the members answer some question about problems they were having.

Will post some pictures etc. later.

Gary

Some time ago there wer a couple threads that dealt with headlights, wireing etc.

One way that I improved my lights on my 30U was to have the reflectors done by UVIRA with a powdered aluminum and glass coating. A little costly, but permanent and very effective.

But the other thing that helped was to ground the actual light socket. I went inside the buckets and attached a ground wire to each of the actual light bulb sockets. I ran that wire down through the headlight bucket attachment bolt into the headlight bar. I did have to drill a small hole up throught the attachment bolt. This wire was then run inside the wire harness down to under the center crossmember. Here I took the wire out and attached it directly to the frame. Just a way to get a good positive ground without trying to get through all the paint joints.

It worked for me and may help someone else.

Gary

Glenn, check that you have the site correct. When I click it my computer says can not find.

Gary

A friend has a 28Q which has had the shoulders ground off where the rear spring shackles hang. They used straight pieces of 1/4" flat bar in place of the original shackles.

I can't tell if there is a pin that goes through the chassis end like in the spring. We have tried to punch it out, heated it, just can't seem to get any action or movement.

Is there a Pin??? and Does it come out???

Any suggestions on how to get it back to original so we can use original shackles would be appreciated.

Gary

No, he didn't say how much he hd to remove. But, he did say that he has had rebuilt clutch pressure plates that were so far off that he couldn't balance them at all. He simple gave them back to the owners. In some cases they had them redone, moved the parts around, and they could then be done.

Gary

Hi Tony, Shipped your shocks the other day. Waiting for Post Office to get the correct box to ship the Spark Plug Wire Holder. Will advise.

Gary

I had some of the guys out and we played with the car last weekend, on the 26th. They convinced me to take the flywheel and clutch plate in for a balance ckeck before pulling the complete engine.

I just got it back Thursday and it was way out of balance. He had to drill two holes in the flywheel and had to drill out the back of the plate in the pressure plate. Interesting but they drill down inside the springs to the back of the pressure plate.

Anyway we went on a nice tour today to a nice collection of cars, had lunch and then toured one of the old parts supplies that just opened up a new shop. Had a great day.

Tomorrow I will start putting it back together, but have the radiator off being cleaned out, so running it is probably a few days away.

Thanks for asking.

I am still working on trying to solve my engine vibration

Took the Clutch pressure plate and the flywheel off today and found that five of the bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel are 5/16" and one is 3/8". When I checked my spare pressure plate it also had the same size holes, 5 - 5/16" and 1 - 3/8", but, when I check my two extra flywheels I find that all six holes are 5/16" in both of them.

Now I know that some of you have done clutches in your cars, what is the real story. Should they all be 5/16" and why would one be 3/8"? I kind of thought the 3/8" bolt was so that it always went back in the same position on the flywheel.

Is this difference in size enough to cause a sever vibration problem with the engine?

I am going to take them (both sets of flywheel and clutch plates) in tomorrow for testing and balancing, but sure would like your input about why we may have different size bolts and if you think that is maybe a cause for my problem.

Gary

Tony, doug got the good pictures for you. Mine looks just like that, only new made of aluminum rather than pot metal.

Gary

Tony, Tomorrow I will take down my headboard and get a picture of my mechanism.

Gary

Thanks again guys. Always appreciate any input. In getting ready to pull the engine I pulled the distributor and found the shaft was loose and so having it rebuilt with new bushings. Should be back tomorrow. Hopefully that is it. Otherwise the club tech committee is coming out on the 12th to pull the engine. I built an engine stand that I can run it on.(Even has a little dash panel)

If it still has vibration out of the car then I'll pull clutch and flywheel and have them checked before pulling down the engine.

Sure wish some of these problems would turn out to be EASY. Want to get it ready to go to California for the Meet.

Gary