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Messages - Gary 30U

#151
General Discussion / Re: Engine/car vibration
October 02, 2010, 12:42:57 AM
Rusty, Sorry I haven't updated on this issue. Thanks for your suggestions.

When I put the new front motor mount in I was looking at the gravel/dust shields. It makes no sense to me the way they are istalled in the car. Starting at the front they are mounted below the motor mount, this mounts them directly to the frame. Then they are attached to the frame rails down either side. But then the rear portion has holes in them that match up to threaded sockets in either side of the bell housing. If you but these bolts in to stabilize the dust pans you make a direct connection from the frame to the engine.

I don't know what the effect of this connection is because I have tried it both ways, with the bolts in and with the bolts out, and it doesn't change the vibration.

I took the bell housing clutch cover off and don't see anything wrong there.

My next project is to take the engine out and have the clutch and flywheel checked for balance. At the same time I can also mount the engine in a stand and run it to check for vibration independent of the car. By having it out I can also check the rubber portion of the bell housing mounts.

If all that fails I guess it is pull the engine down and do a balance job on the complete engine.

See my other post about radiator belch.

Thanks for your suggestions and Happy Motoring.

Gary
#152
General Discussion / Re: Tire Mounting
October 02, 2010, 12:12:06 AM
Just a comment about wood spoke wheels - most specifically loose spokes. One of the rear wheels on my car had really loose spokes (rust and dust lines showing on the ends of the spokes and from around the hub). I took the wheel and brake drum off the car thinking that tighened the nuts holding the drum to the spokes might help. NO help.

I remembered the old story about parking in the creek. Well it works. I took the wheel and stuck it in a big tub of water for about 18 hours. When I took it out the spokes were as tight as could be.

A few days after doing this I was talking to a friend that works for a local Fire Department and found that they have an old engine with wood wheels. Part of his regular job when he is on duty on either Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday is to take the squirt bottle and wet down the spokes on the old engine. Note: he works every third day. So each week the wheels get wet down and they say they have never had any problems with them.

My car has made it thought the summer and the spokes are still tight and no signs of paint loosening or flakeing. May have to try the squirt bottle trick.


Gary
#153
General Discussion / Engine/car vibration
August 22, 2010, 10:52:05 PM
Since I have started driving the car I find that I have a serious vibration that is RPM sensitive. I have taken the fan belt off the water pump and generator and that didn't affect the problem. I did find that I needed a new bushing in the generator.

I talked to another member of the club and he thought I had something solid attached between the engine and the frame that would have picked up the sympathectic vibration.  I checked this out and found an exhaust pipe hanger attached directly to the bell housing - not directly to the frame.  I also found the exhaust pipe touching the gravel guard where it went down through it. I fixed both those problems without reducing the problem.

I next checked the front motor mount and found a big problem. The rubber donut had apparently disintigrated many years before. When the previous owner rebuild the engine in 1980 they had not installed the mount correctly. They had run bolts up through the frame, through the top and bottom plates of the motor mount and directly into the front timing cover. This obviously created a direct contact between the engine and the frame.

I took out the motor mount and sent it to Andy Bernbaum and had it revulcanized. It took some time, but only cost $49.00 plus postage.

Well what I was getting at was that this greatly reduced the vibration, but didn't eliminate it.

NOW anyone have any other ideas as to what my problem might be. I have thought maybe the engine, flywheel or cluthch might be out of balance. Anyone have any experience with this or any ideas?

Thanks, Gary
#154
Scott, Sorry for the delay in responding. I know I took the measurements before, but apparently got sidetracked before posting.

Anyway, my 30U Business coupe door measures as follows: Top 34 and 1/8 inch; belt (just above the door handle) 34 inched even; Bottom 33 and 7/8 inches.

Gary
#155
General Discussion / Re: Headlamp Repair
August 15, 2010, 11:03:45 PM
I tried to rewire my headlights and just got flustered at the fine work. Sent them to YnZ's (where I got my wiring harness) in California and they did them for me. I also installed a separate ground wire from the headlight bucket to the frame.

Now I find that my 30 was supposed to have metal covered wires from the light bucket to the fenders. Just have to do it all over again.

Oh, about the reflectors. If you really want a nice, permanent coating, try Uvira Laser Optics,Inc. at 310 Pleasant Valley Road, P.O. Box 1137 in Merlin, Oregon 97532. Ph #541-956-6880. www.uvira@terragon.com

They flash coat them under a vacumn with powdered aluminum and glass. I demo'd mine for the club and they couldn't tell them from a sealed beam.

Can't remember the cost, but they are really nice.

Gary
#156
General Discussion / Re: Hub Puller
August 15, 2010, 10:52:13 PM
HI everyone. For some time now I have been waiting for a machinst to make me a hub puller. One of the fellows in the club had him make a mandrel for holding hub cap/grease caps while cleaning and polishing. It works just super. Because he had the external measurements and thread count we thought it would be easy for him to make internal threads and make us a hub puller. He assures us that he will do it, but is just to busy.

So after getting the Ford TT info I went ahead and ordered the Ford Model TT hub puller from Mac's in Lockport, NY. Didn't come this past week, so hopefully next week.

Another fellow told be that I might get the wheel loose by taking out the washer behind the nut and replaceing the nut and cotter key and just drive the car for a while. Well I tried it, and the first four times I tried nothing happened. Last week my neighbor came over and I told him I wanted him to drive my Buick (with digital speedometer) and follow me in the Plymouth to check the speedometer reading. He actually used his GPS hand held unit and we went for a ride. Well the speedometer is really close, and guess what, the wheel came loose. Now I could really check out the spokes.

Well during all this I rembered that if you soak the spokes in water they will tighten up. You know, PARK IN THE CREEK. I put the wheel in a tub of water for 24 hours and walla, the spokes are as tight as new. But, now I guess I should pull the other rear wheel and do the fronts as well.

Another little part to this story. I find that a friend of the family is a firefighter in a department that has an old fire engine that has wood wheels. Every week that he is on duty on Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday, he says one of his duties is to take the squirt water bottle and wet down the spokes on the engine so they don't dry out.

I will post and let you know if the TT puller really fits.

Gary


#157
General Discussion / Re: Hub Puller
August 13, 2010, 04:23:03 PM
You guys are something else. Thanks.

I actually ordered one of the "TT" pullers from one of the Ford parts suppliers.

I will sure try the dust cover conversion as I have several old beat up covers.

Thanks again,

Gary
#158
General Discussion / Hub Puller
August 08, 2010, 05:18:16 PM
I have been looking for over a year and haven't found one yet.

I NEED A HUB PULLER FOR MY 30U. One of my rear wheels needs spokes replaced. Anyone that has a spare I sure could use it.

No one in the club seems to have one either.

Thanks, Gary
#159
General Discussion / Re: stone guard
August 05, 2010, 11:52:59 PM
I have an original Owners Manual, an Original Parts List book for the 30U and a Plymouth Master Parts List for all models prior to 1934 and non of  them show any type of a grill/radiator guard.

Gary
#160
It appears from looking at the pictures of the car and the dash that you actully have an early 1930 30U. As stated, the 30's had the wide sided radiator shell and the 29's was a very narrow shell. The 29's dash was a little different as well. The early 30's had the rectangular rear window like your car and the later 30's had an oval rear window.

Another way to tell is that the 29's had a lot of wood in the doors and the 30's had "an all steel body". The only wood was basically to attach upholstery to.

If you want to post the serial number from your car (on a plate on the passenger door post) I can tell you in about what week it was produced, assuming it is a US built car.

Gary
#161
General Discussion / Re: stone guard
August 04, 2010, 01:56:32 AM
Help us out. Stone Guards? I'm not sure of what your refering. Headlight protectors, radiator, or engine pans?

Gary
#162
General Discussion / Re: tool kits
July 28, 2010, 10:06:05 PM
OOps, seems the first photo didn't get in. Here it is.
#163
General Discussion / Re: tool kits
July 28, 2010, 10:01:59 PM
The one picture is of page 55 of the Parts List Dated June 15,1930 for the Detroit cars after RR120P and Windsor cars after GP583W.

The second is from page 57 from the Parts List (not dated) for the New Finer Plymouth, Detroit cars from 1,500,001 and up,  and Windsor cars from 9,300,001 and up.

Hope this helps.
#164
General Discussion / Re: fan blade
July 28, 2010, 09:37:57 PM
Before you spend any big money for something you don't need check the passages in the engine itself.

I had a heating problem in my 30U (with a water pump) and used regular raditor cleaner (twice) and blew out the engine with pressure water with radiator removed. I couldn't believe how much crap came out of the engine block itself.

Both the early convection system and the pumped system have worked well for 80 years. Don't spend a bundle to treat the symptons, find out waht the problem is and fix it.

Just my thoughts.

Gary
#165
Chet, Thanks.

I contacted Then and Now and took mine out to send in for revulcanizing.

I have the later 30U with the water pump and fuel pump, but still have the small bisket type motor mount below the front timing chain cover. Looks like that motor has the Floating Power mounts.

Gary