Ted,
I received this unsigned email today from Floyd Carlstrom's son or daughter:
"Thank you for contacting my dad.  Unfortunately he had an accident and is now in a nursing home.  It looks like he won't be returning home at this time.  I am sorry for any inconvenience this has caused."

My wiper motor was just a standard Trico vacuum wiper motor.  I tried to rebuild it but was successful.  I think i bought a new one from JC Whitney in the late 1970s. It fit exactly, the only difference was the new motor has a small lever where you could attache an on-off pull-push handle, but that feature is not used on our Plymouth.  The Master Parts List does not show a part number, but has a note that states the wiper motor is serviced by Trico.

Yes, and they are pretty hefty.  I will have to look and see if I might have a picture.  Didn't think about that.

Attached are two pictures of the right front pillar.  The lower bracket is firmly screwed to the floor and the pillar.  In the second picture you can see the machine bolt that passes through the pillar. (The brown triangular spot on the second picture is a reflection.)

You can also see the brace that wraps around the inside of the cowling and attaches to both pillars.

It looks just like the one on my 29U sedan.

I also had to trim the slots a little to the side, about 1/8 inch or 3/16.

I finally got the floor mat installed and the kick panels.  I decided to screw the kick panels in to make it easier to remove them and the floor mat when I have to replace the battery.

I have enough material left from the running boards that I will be able to make floor mats to put over the installed floor mat.

I purchased a steering colum floor plate and a gear shift floor plate from Steel Rubber. The gear shift floor plate fit perfectly.  However, the steering column floor plate had to be modified to fit my car. I had to raise the two slots for the pedals about 1/2 inch. I filled in the lower portion by glueing patches on the back.  These are expensive high quality products.  But not sure why the steering column cover did not fit. I wish I had kept the original one, but it was in awful shape.

When I rewired my car I went down to the next gauge on all the wires.  In recent years I have installed all LED lights, except for the headlights.  I did add a 10 gauge ground wire from the headlights to the battery.  I have considered adding a relay to the headlights, but have not had any problems. It might be good for the Culm switch though.

I believe it came from a Plymouth sedan. 

I'll try and post a picture, but it is straight if looking down on it from above.

The bulbs are listed as 6v 25/25w Ba15d #1000
The Ba15d indicates the socket style.
They fit in the original sockets, no modification needed.
They appear to be shorter in regards to the distance between the filament and the base. I had to extend them to the maximum distance to focus them properly.  I thought I might need a longer focusing screw, but I was able to focus it.
The shape of the bulb is different, but that doesn't seem to matter, except for the concern on focus adjustment.

Years ago I bought this tail light stalk from a Plymouth Club member.  It is a little different shape than the original 29U tail light stalk.  I used it for years for the right rear tail light. Can anyone tell me what year Plymouth it goes to?

I recently had my headlights rechromed.  I had the reflectors nickel plated and then sent them to Bill Atwood for his UVIRA coating. Bill still only charges $75 including return shipping.  I then installed 25 watt halogen bulbs from Bill Hirsch.  The first picture was taken with the lights off and a flash camera, while the second picture is with the headlights on.  They are much better than before.  The 25 watt bulbs draw about 4 amps each, which is about the same as the  30cp bulbs (#1000) I was using. The original equipped headlights had 21cp bulb with drew about 3 amps each.  Long ago I installed a voltage regulator in the generator and had the cutout converted to a diode with heat sink, both provided by Jim Peterson.

Chet,
My car is probably not correct in that regard, I think when I rebuilt the roof in 1974 i but it a little too low because I cannot use the small winder handle for my windshield.   Having said all that, mine is curved slightly over the rear side windows, it is about 2 inches in the center but about 2+3/8 to 2+1/2 on the ends.  But, i think my headliner is about 1/2 inches too low.
John

Ask to speak to Tom Hannaford when you call.  He had some made for or Plymouth's a while back. Be sure they have been modified to ensure the gear will not spin on the heb.

Vintage Auto Parts also lists them for 28-32 Plymouths for $198.75
http://www.vapinc.com/

The only way I know to change it is to pull the engine, remove the valves and oil pump and pull the camshaft out, then take it to a machine shop to carefully have it pulled off.  Stay with it, as it is hard to get behind the gear to remove it and the shop broke the bearing flange removing mine a few years back.

The brass mechanics are fine, but the aluminum face is damaged and the needle gets stuck on it.  You could have a new face made for it.