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Messages - chetbrz

Pages: 1 ... 65 66 [67] 68 69 ... 83
991
General Discussion / Re: clutch photos
« on: January 06, 2010, 03:42:28 AM »

Nice Job,  Excellent Work !  :)  :)  ::)

Chet...


992
General Discussion / Re: 1929 Ignition Switch
« on: January 05, 2010, 02:21:35 PM »
Craig, 

I have been looking for a complete ignition switch assembly for my 29 since I bought my car.  It appears that they are few and far between.  Over the years I have picked up pieces of the switch.., working coil, key switch, decal, etc. ( not cheep )  But I still don’t have enough to make the complete assembly.  I need the dash plate and mounting hardware.  The 30 & 31 models had a third position for auxiliary items.

Good luck, If you get any leads on two of these let me know.

Happy New Year,  Chet…

993
General Discussion / Re: crank pulley removal
« on: December 11, 2009, 06:43:44 AM »

Could it be welded ?

994
General Discussion / Re: 6 Volt Fuel Pump - will this work?
« on: December 10, 2009, 02:13:03 PM »
John

I use a low output 12vdc electric fuel pump I purchased from Car Quest I believe it is 2 psi.  My car didn't have the Vacuum pump when I first purchased her and since I have acquired the pump but have yet to hook it up since the electric one works just fine.  The owner before me used two batteries I added an inverter that converts 6vdc negative ground to 12 vdc positive ground.  Intended to be used to put modern radios into old cars.

Chet...

995
General Discussion / Re: heater
« on: December 01, 2009, 02:21:25 PM »
Rusty,

Steve on the POC Board has this heater for sale for $200.  If you are interested email him <  sdbraverman@optonline.net >.  Tell him Chet told you about the heater.

Chet...

996
General Discussion / @@@ Happy Thanksgiving @@@
« on: November 25, 2009, 03:14:12 AM »
To all,

I would like to wish all the members of this forum a very Happy Thanksgiving.  Each of your experiences, expertise, and counsel is helping to make a place in cyber space where owners of early 4 cylinder Plymouths can come to experience great practical information from those of us who “have been there and done that”.    My purpose in creating this forum was to provide a free exchange of information and ideas that are set in an atmosphere of no rules; just early Plymouths back on the road again.

Sometimes within the organization of car shows and judging we forget the purpose of our hobby.  Well, for me anyway it is to influence a younger generation of restorers and have fun in the process.  I have never been able to stay all day at a car show waiting for the awards presentation.   I generally get board and long for the open road, a place I remember from my youth.., a feeling of freedom, self reliance, and the purpose of man, machine and adventure. 

To our members in the Americas, Australia, and Europe your holiday may not be Thursday but our celebration of thanksgiving is, to me, a celebration of self reliance, common sense, and camaraderie between people all engaged in the same wonderful adventure.

So.., Happy Thanksgiving & keep them old cars rolling.

Chet…   

997
General Discussion / Re: clutch photos
« on: November 21, 2009, 01:57:53 AM »
Rusty,

I emailed the pdf file

Chet...

998
General Discussion / Re: clutch photos
« on: November 20, 2009, 08:32:24 PM »
Does any one have a exploded views of a clutch assembly?  The tranmission front bearing retainer is broken and I found a guy that will remake (reweld) mine but he wants a detailed exploded view of clutch throw out bearing assembly.   He wants to make sure that the bearing assembly (throw out and sleeve ) rides on the front bearing retainer.  rusty

Rusty I will scan this tonight, enlarge and post as a pdf file.

Chet...

999
General Discussion / Re: heater
« on: November 20, 2009, 08:29:15 PM »

I posted a query concerning 28/29 heater options for our cars on the Plymouth Owner’s Club web forum and Bob posted the following:   “According to the "Standard Catalog of Chrysler" 1924-1990, both the 1928 and 1929 Plymouths had the option:   Heater floor type, hot air heat for thirty dollars.”

I have an original salesman’s reference book for the 1929 sales year but unfortunately two of the four option pages have been lost so I can't verify, but I am sure the info is spot on.  Parts for the heater option must be listed somewhere in the parts reference manual.

Interesting Topic, Chet…

PS..,  Those of you with heaters how about some pictures  :)   


1000
General Discussion / Re: heater
« on: November 19, 2009, 11:15:11 PM »
This is turning out to be an interesting question.  I have been poking around the Internet and haven’t found a whole lot of information on vintage car heaters.  Most sites agree that car heaters became standard equipment in the 1920’s.  So this would lead one to believe that Chrysler Plymouth or their dealerships provided some type of option, possibly after market for the 28 & 29 Plymouths.  

As Rusty mentioned there is currently a 1929 Canadian built Plymouth radiator on ePay that appears to have been fitted with a heat vent toward the top of the radiator.  Similar to what Rich was talking about.   If anyone has more information I also would be interested.

Pictures from the ePay Ad below.

Tks,  Chet…



1001
General Discussion / Re: pulling a engine
« on: November 02, 2009, 02:29:44 PM »
Jim,

I may be doing this at some point in time so the question is:  Do you unbolt the bell housing from the frame or unbolt the motor from the bell housing.?  It seems to me that the bell housing is a major cross member holding the frames together ???

Chet...

1002
General Discussion / Re: 29 to 30U Question
« on: October 27, 2009, 11:57:02 PM »
Chet it seems to me the 29 radiator has more capacity than the 30?  jim

Jim,

That would make sense.  Since thermal siphon requires water to be boiled out of the engine the water coming into the radiator is hotter then a modern cooling system so you would need a large capacity radiator to allow the water sufficient time to be cooled before it is siphon back into the engine block.   The water pump when combined with a thermostat keeps the block at a relatively constant operating temperature (160 – 210 degrees) which by efficiency allows for a smaller radiator.   Radiators were made even smaller when we went to pressurized cooling systems.   It’s all about real-estate.   That's my 2 cents

Chet…

1003
General Discussion / Re: 29 to 30U Question
« on: October 27, 2009, 11:39:56 PM »
::) I have to say that I have not driven any real long distance with my 29 Ply -  Your water pump would be a plus but as I understand if your engine block is clean (roded out and/or boiled out), and radiator has been boiled out and all the coils are clear and straight, an engine with out a water pump will operate just fine.  I have driven mine on some pretty hot days and have had no problems with overheating.  Good luck with either way you decide to go. - Rich

Rich,

My original motor is probably due for a rebuild which I will do when I get around to restoring this car.   The point being is that I don’t see that project starting in the near future.  Anyway spending a weekend dropping in this newly rebuilt 30U motor would keep me on the road for a couple of years until I have the time to do the restore.    Worst case I can eliminate the water pump but it would be nice to use it.  .

Chet…

1004
General Discussion / Re: 29 to 30U Question
« on: October 25, 2009, 03:12:07 PM »
Thanks Jim,

I suspected that the radiator output was on the passenger side in the 30U and up.  Of course I can always remove the water pump and use my 29 head.  If I use this motor I would like to take advantage of the water pump.  My old 29 runs and sounds so much better in cold weather.  The added water circulation would be a definite improvement for summer driving. 

I don’t want to replace the radiator so I will just have to think about a clean and neat way to pipe the water over to the pump.

Tks,  Chet…

1005
General Discussion / Re: mounting rear wheels
« on: October 25, 2009, 03:04:50 PM »
Why no grease? 

Rusty the precision ground conical shape of the shaft and hub become locked when bolted together.  This is known as Taper Lock.  In order for this to occur there is no tolerance allowed in the connection.  Therefore grease would prevent the two metal surfaces from locking together.  After you clean the shaft and hub, you may wipe the shaft with a rag wet with light weight oil like WD40 or 3in1. I think the WD would serve your purposes better.   The cleaner and dryer the connection the stronger the Taper Lock.

Jim’s comments about cleaning up the keyway is good advice but once you get the metal parts clean they should go together just fine.  Before applying any pressure to the connection install the key

Chet...

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