Author Topic: Engine Rebuild info on my 29 Ply "U"  (Read 2849 times)

29plycoop

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Engine Rebuild info on my 29 Ply "U"
« on: October 09, 2009, 06:31:39 AM »
        :o Here are the details on the rebuild on my 29 Plymouth "U" 4 cyl.  The first estimate after checking on machine shop work,  parts availability and prices was $2247.87 complete. The real details after all shakes out, machine work finished, parts acquired, mistakes made and etc. are as follows:
        • Gasket set $189.00
        • (set for a 6 cyl.)Rings $47.19
        • .040 over Pistons (4) $179.25
        • Intake valves(4) $38.40
        • Exhaust valves (4) $99.00 WOW!
        • Head studs (replaced two studs) and nuts $31.00
        • Rebuild rods (babbitt), main bearings (babbitt) and turn crank, line bore and lay crank $1195.00
        • decked the block and ground the head
        • Rebuild engine $600.00
          • Freight $55.00
          • Pan bolts $5.00
          • Tax $47.10
          The final total was $2481.00
          Parts and gaskets from Egge Machine
          ReBabbitt work and line bore done in Effingham, Ill. at Effingham Regrinding  
          Things always happen so here a few THINGS.
                  My rebuild-er called for availability of pistons and for size and was told .030 over were available so he went ahead with boring the block. When the order was made for parts they did not have the .030 but had .040 oversize available. To avoid a long wait for parts went with .040's and re-bored the block.
                  The exhaust valves are made of a special material and hard to come by so the price went very high. The intake valves could have been used but opted to get new to match the fresh rebuild. The price of them was normal for intake valves.
                   Rings came in as a set for 6 cyl. so I have two extra sets of rings just in case.
                   The pistons were identical to the factory ones that came out.
                   The three main bearings are inserts set in the block with undersize babbitt, and then line bored to fit the crankshaft. There are two straight and one flanged.  The rods are re-babbitted and bored to fit crank.
                    The cam shaft runs in the block with out bearings. It was OK.
Added another THING.  The valve keepers (5/32 pins i think) were not available so the ends of drill bits of appropriate size were used. They are tough and not brittle.
The weather has me worried as it has turned cold and I was in the middle of stripping, cleaning and repainting from the firewall forward. The engine is ready to breath fire and has to wait.
This will give you an idea of what it might take to stop one from smoking. This all came about from the engine smoking a little and a crack across the top of a piston in #4.
HAPPY MOTORING!!!! - RICH[/list][/list][/list][/list]
« Last Edit: October 10, 2009, 03:45:47 AM by 29plycoop »
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Rusty

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Re: Engine Rebuild info on my 29 Ply "U"
« Reply #1 on: October 10, 2009, 12:27:45 AM »
That is a true complete rebuild.  What did you do with the timing gears?  Reuse the orginial??  What about the oil pump?  thanks rusty

29plycoop

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Re: Engine Rebuild info on my 29 Ply "U"
« Reply #2 on: October 10, 2009, 03:40:29 AM »
Hi Rusty-
The timing gear was OK so it went back in.  The oil pump was removed, checked, cleaned and reinstalled. The re-builder mentioned that the motor must not have very many miles on it that it did not show any ware. He removed and clean the oil pressure valve that it was clogged with build-up. I have read on the internet that if it is working don't try to adjust it to a higher pressure. I will be watching the pressure close for a while when it is back on the road. Happy Motoring!!!! - Rich   
Plymouth and inovation go hand in hand.

Rusty

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Re: Engine Rebuild info on my 29 Ply "U"
« Reply #3 on: November 30, 2009, 05:02:09 PM »
What did  you do with the oil pressure relief valve?  Did you use a new spring or turn out the screw?  Since your engine is back to stock, what would be a good setting to start out with the relief valve setting?

thanks rusty

29plycoop

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Re: Engine Rebuild info on my 29 Ply "U"
« Reply #4 on: December 01, 2009, 12:37:04 AM »
My engine re-builder took the oil pressure valve apart because it was stopped up with old hard oil. It was cleaned and put back in with no parts changed and the oil pressure was checked by hand cranking the engine.  My suggestion would be to count the turns of all the adjustments and put it back that way. Then check the oil pressure by cranking it over with the spark plugs out. Don't forget to rod out (clean) all the internal oil passages.     
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29UJohn

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Re: Engine Rebuild info on my 29 Ply "U"
« Reply #5 on: March 21, 2010, 01:50:11 AM »
Who rebuilt your engine?
John
1929U 4 Dr

29plycoop

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Re: Engine Rebuild info on my 29 Ply "U"
« Reply #6 on: March 21, 2010, 03:43:51 AM »
John - My re-builder has been rebuilding engines for about 40 yrs and does all kinds of engines. He is located  in Troy, Missouri just west and north (25 miles) of the St.Louis area.  Email if you want more info. - Rich
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29UJohn

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Re: Engine Rebuild info on my 29 Ply "U"
« Reply #7 on: August 07, 2010, 06:48:34 AM »
Where did you buy the oversized pistons?  I bough mine form Egge and they are 33% heavier than the original ones.  I am concerned about the effect on the balance of the engine.
John
1929U 4 Dr

29plycoop

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Re: Engine Rebuild info on my 29 Ply "U"
« Reply #8 on: August 07, 2010, 09:47:45 AM »
The added weight will not affect the performance of your engine.  The main thing to have checked is that each rod and piston assy weighs the same.  Your machine shop can do that for you.  It should not be a problem. My pistons also came from Egges.  The weather has been a little cooler the past few days so I have been painting all the engine parts and getting them put on.  Temps in the upper 90's for the past few months has put a hold on getting my rebuilt engine painted and installed. Good luck with your rebuild. - Rich
Plymouth and inovation go hand in hand.

29UJohn

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Re: Engine Rebuild info on my 29 Ply "U"
« Reply #9 on: August 08, 2010, 02:36:37 AM »
Thanks!  I'll have my machine shop do that.   They just turned the crank and still have to align bore the mains. 

John
John
1929U 4 Dr